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Chuck Most

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Everything posted by Chuck Most

  1. I believe today the car has a Ford Y-Block, or small block Chevy with Ford Y-block valve covers and air cleaner. I don't remember which. There was an article on it in Custom Rodder a few years back, I'll see if I can find it- it did mention the engine, I don't recall if it included a photo of the engine, but I think there was one underhood shot.
  2. Wow! Love what you have in mind for the grille. I really need to look into those gaming kits more.
  3. Love that color! And love the Turbo Coupes. This one will be cool.
  4. Very nice. I guess I like Maryland's color scheme! Zero luck at my local Wal Nut (though they're winding down inventory to move into the new 'Super Center' across the street), so I suppose I'll order mine online. I'm thinking of turning one into a Lincoln MKS.
  5. The AMT '70 roof is the same as the '72 Cutlass 'formal' roof, a lot of guys rolled their own that way. And Dave is right- the fastback style has been done on every other kit of a Cutlass this vintage. I'd say odds are better than ever of seeing Revell kit the formal version. I mean, who'd have thunk any mainstream styrene kit manufacturer would have kitted a Chevy 150 Utility Sedan until Revell actually went out and did it? Then again, if it's anything like what Revell has done with its Tri-Five Chevy and '32 Ford kits, who's to say they won't offer a '72 with BOTH roofs at some point? I'm pretty sure a hardtop Cutlass from Revell will happen, only time will tell when and which one.
  6. Very nice, especially in 1:43 scale!
  7. In addition to being sold as an Austin and a BMW, it was illegally copied in Japan as a Datsun. Might need to build one with a Z-car engine one o' these days!
  8. Is it similar to this one? http://public.fotki.com/ChuckMost/kit-contents/minicraft/rat-trap-pick-em-up/
  9. Wasn't aware of him participating in LSR, but I knew he was an accomplished pilot/aero engineer. Now I'm curious!
  10. I'd put money on a Boss 302 variant being produced at some point in the not so distant future.
  11. Yep- I think it was on Nova. If I recall, it wasn't the head guy, but the cheif mechanic Rick who died (blood clot). I've got it on VHS somewhere.
  12. Whoa! A veritable minefield of ejector pin circles! I think I'd solve that by not using the fenders and making my own floor.
  13. As far as vendors go, I have had great luck with Steve Kohler at STAR Models. No, I take that back, luck has nothing to do with it- Steve runs his business efficiently. He says something to the effect of "We don't take your money and make you wait weeks and weeks". Just ask him if he has it in stock, and if he does, you'll TYPICALLY have it in within a week, if he doesn't have it he'll tell you, and let you know when he gets it in. As far as buying direct from casters, I cannot fault Bandit Resins, Replicas And Miniatures Company of Maryland, Time Machine Resin, Motor City Resin Casters, Modelhaus, Promolite 2000, and Jimmy Flintstone. No serious issues with any of them, and when something cropped up, it was dealt with in a professional manner. Hope to add a few more to this list in the near future!
  14. You probably won't be totally satisfied with your R&R casting, but I can personally guarantee you you'll be very pleased with Steve. I would never hesitate to reccomend him to anyone.
  15. I'd say about 14/20 hours. I try to do something model related every day. Today all I did was desprue, clean up, and paint two 1930's headlamps and install the lenses. If I have the day off work and don't feel like doing something outdoors (rainy, too hot, etc.), I might spend the full day working on models if I don't have any other commitments or plans for the day, but I'd say I probably average two or three hours a day in a typical week.
  16. Strange... tomorrow is LeBron James day. Everyone gets to leave work 12 minutes early.
  17. Wow... it has been years since I've heard anyone refer to a Lozier! Love the stock one you built, the racer should be just as sweet.
  18. I'd also say clearcoat, but avoid the automotive types! If the paint they're using is the same as what RC2 used on its predec kits, it will melt the paint. (Ask me how I came across THAT little tidbit! )
  19. People have been asking for one since the droptop kit popped, I'd be more suprised if Revell ignored the hardtop version.
  20. Already a tenfold improvement over the original kit! The extra updated NASCAR parts will look awesome in this car.
  21. Spam indeed... though some speculate it's actually a she in the footage. Or an abnormally tall man with a strange gait in a fur suit...
  22. Normally I would, but I kinda screwed my beverage budget for this month! x2 if it glows in the dark.
  23. Rob- there isn't Fusion primer. Krylon's big pitch with it is that it can be applied to any plastic without the need for primer. It does work pretty well on MOST of the styrene kits out there, but it can craze some. Not sure if it's enamel or lacquer- most other Krylon paints are acrylic enamel.
  24. Good point... I suppose it wouldn't be an issue, unless you were in some kind of hurry. Aaron- I've had the same experience with most of the fusion paints... except Olive Drab. I've used that on numerous styrene bodies with no adverse effect. At least none yet!
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