iBorg

I have always found this car attractive. I'll admit, I'd love to attempt it but the opening closing panels scare me. Your build is very nice, one of the best I've seen completed I notice one question in the original design. The top of the back edge of the doors seem to create a huge blind spot. Does the door need reshaping although I'm not sure what rabbit hole correcting that would create. The convertible is also a tremendous design. Both of these designs, really should have been made into show cars if not luxury production cars. The Cobra fit into a class all by itself while these two would have been Corvette killers and could have competed with Aston Martin and other cars in that class.

Folks, please tell us where the store is. That way we know where we might want to go.

I'm viewing the forum on a Mac running 10.15.17 using both Brave and Firefox. Today, when I press to go to the next page, the forum freezes. It does work in Chrome. Any thoughts?

Dave- what store?

I'd much prefer these being separate. Most belts are two or three times thicker than they would be in scale. Having the pulleys saparate gives you a much better chance at scale realism.

Great article......wouldn't it be a blast if Atlantis now owned the molds. With that said, quick raise of hands to who else thought that.

This is really coming together.

I'm curious as to what kind of computer requirements you needed for this upgrade. I would like to learn a software that would create files for CNC as well as 3D prints.

Jairus.......so very good to see you post again!

Love it! Makes me want to start one.

In determining the color decide if you want to do the car as it appeared in the 60's or the restoration. This page has some great pictures:https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/albums/the-ron-bizio-truck.39559/ It appears to me the restoration is much closer to a blue pearl and the original was a blue metalflake.

I'm trying to build a specific historic race car and there's certain markings that are not available in decals and I'm not confident in my masking the area. I've thought about painting clear decal sheet and then cutting the desired shape and then applying it. Anyone ever try it before? Was it a success?

A bit more Atlantis news. From their weekend email:"The Boss Fink is not far behind. The KK Scorpion is about 3 weeks away along with restock of the crazy popular H1440 Jungle Jim Camaro. Look for some more news coming form that tooling.. All new body reissue not seen since the 1970s." The chassis was used with two other bodies. A Maverick and a Mustang. The best of these is the Maverick although it suffers the same greenhouse issues as the Camaro. I do hope the box art more closely reflects the box contents.

So far, the reborn MCM has been great. The build something rare concept is great. Maybe an article on dismantling a rare build up? Even a sub topic for people to post their in project rebuilds? It would also be useful to have a place to post questions such as where to get rare parts in other kits.

Very nice build of one of the more accurate funny cars.

Be careful.....that body is resin. Also, where did you source the decals?

Looks great.....glad the decals worked out for you.

Looks really good. What kind of printer did you use? I wonder what would happen if you cleared over it?

Actually its from YOU from the old SLM group.

As always top notch work. And with great work comes questions. How did you cut the aluminium? (why does this forum always think I misspell that word?)

Very nice!

Is this the Monogram 1/24 version? If not, what body is this?

Two thoughts.....I need a ring clamp. That steering wheel is amazing. I keep forgetting the scale of this. For the amount of detail, I'm thinking 1/16th but for some reason I'm thinking 1/25th which makes it even more impressive. I'm also reminded of something I was told a long time ago. The best way to build a detailed model is to take each individual part and make it an individual model and then join all the pieces together. Hmmm........

As a former ebay seller as well as a modeler I think a picture of a prototype would eliminate many of your questions. I also think the black outline could be included on the sample to show the white outline that would not be visible if printed in white on traditional decal paper. To me, this looks like a graphic printed on a sticker.

I think the question to ask is what are you wanting to separate from the kit. You mentioned you painted it 23 years ago. If the paint is good, then I'd leave the glass alone if at all possible as well as the chrome. Separating the chassis from the body is typically easier than removing the glass or some small part.