AzTom

I use those credit cards that banks send you in the mail hoping you will sign up. I think the plastic works better than cardboard. It seems the cardboard draws the moisture out of the epoxies. They are also great as applicators to spread putty and epoxie.

I think the dash is also different in the 64-1/2. I'm with Greg, the more kits the better.

Many of the bilge blowers only blow fresh air to the bottom of the boat forcing the gas fumes out an open vent. They do not have gas fumes going through the fan.

That's a bargain if it's a squirrel cage blower and would be a safe choice.

If it's not taking the fumes out, it's not enough fan to do the job. I might add that not all bilge blowers are safe for paint booths using flammable paints. If it has the squirrel cage type fan you are good.

The Tamiya fine surface is an excellent primer, just pricey. Try a new nozzle on the MM sometime, you will be amazed.

I have found that the nozzles on the MM lacquers very from one can/color to the next. Most spray way too heavy and even splatter at times, others spray a very nice fine mist. I save the nozzles that spray the fine mist for the next can that sprays heavy.

Wow, that looks very nice. Shouldn't be that hard to scale it out. Seldom are they larger than stated.

Good start.

Nice. I'm guessing they are all 1/24. The 57 Cadillac had those issues for some time, not sure if there are any that don't have them.

I have over 200 junk 1/18 cars but have never had one of these darts, Sorry.

Welcome Steve. Here is some help on photos. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52417

Looks great! You're almost there. What happened to the bumpers?

Very nice. I need to get this one to go with my 1/43 trucks

Well that is what turns the finish pink. On my floor pan, the finish looked great, it just, turned pink when clear coated. After it completely cured it was a nice hard finish with no indication that the plastic actually bled though to the surface.

I'm sorry, I misunderstood your theory. I thought you were saying it was NOT the paint breaking down the plastic causing it to bleed through but it was light waves penetrating two-three coats of paint. If you have light from the back side of the plastic it could show through a thin layer of paint.

That is sad news. Brian was great modeler and would help you with anything. RIP buddy.

Good start! Love anything Willys

Very Nice! These are almost enough to make me want to sell First Gear again.

Glad it went ok. Follow the doctors orders.

Well, I'm still with the "Bleed" theory. If your theory is correct then if you scraped the pink finish off of the red plastic it would then be white again. That is not the case in my experience. I painted Revell red plastic floor pan with Model Masters lacquer white primer, then Model Masters lacquer off white. No pink at either step. After proper drying time I sprayed on clear coat, Krylon crystal clear acrylic and within about ten minutes the thing turned pink, real pink. I waited until it was just dry to the touch and did a scrape test. The pink layers came off easily down to the red plastic and the underneath side of the removed paint was dark red. It did in fact soften the plastic. Reading the can of acrylic clear I found out is does contain acetone, tuluene and xylene. I also noticed the are in a Do-It can of fast dry Enamel clear coat I have. My conclusion is test the clear before spraying. Even some of the acrylics are too hot to cover model paints.

Thanks Now I wish I had bought several of these. When I find my vacuum form machine I may try and make windows for the White 3000 trucks.

Ok, here is the other White 3000 Utility truck finished. The headlight are stickers I found on a Revell VW decal sheet. Thanks for looking, if you have any questions feel free to ask.

Sorry, I don't follow these cars so I'm not familiar with them. Are the #18 Shell cars in the boxes the ones you did? They look great.

Looking good Mark. What kind of printer do you use?