AzTom

I have not used Krylon in years ..... I never thought is was a good paint in any color. I have had great results from Dupli-Color. Super Clean has not been made by Castrol for several years, It's now just called "Super Clean" and is in a purple bottle.

Get the accelerator for super glue. It will put a crust over the joint instantly. It will take a little longer for the joint to gain full strength but it works great. Another advantage using the accelerator is put a dab of accelerator on one piece and a dap of glue on the other, when they touch it's instant. I found this great on items like mirrors. Just make sure you have it lined up correctly.

This was my brother's 57 around 1967. I had a Matador red one with no front bumper or grill but can't find any photos.

My bucket list is a mile long already. Franklin Mint didn't think like that.

That makes sense, my black one may have been a 63. I can't find my other photos. I did noticed my gold 66 impala is molded in color.

Those look handy, better grab some of those. For small amounts of paint I use nail polish bottles. I picked up a new case of 500 one ounce bottles at a yard sale for $20.00.

This is what Is use ..... on the same pack for about eight years now.

As indicated in the first post, they are reissuing a few of the models from several years ago. They will be the same color as before and should be available by late summer. I sent feedback to them that they need to change the colors (excluding the camper) if they have hope in selling these, we'll see how that goes.

I agree with Art, although the craft wire would work fine and easier to bend and paint. The craft wire I'm talking about here comes in straight length about 14 in long, painted green. It comes in several sizes from real thin to about 16ga. You get about 100 pcs for a few dollars. The sway bar on this car does have flat spots near and at the ends to bolt it to the lower control arms. I'm guessing here, but the diameter should be just over 1in. Here is what it looks like on a real car. And on a 1/18 diecast. Another note on the W-30 is the battery goes in the trunk. The 442 should also have the trim at the bottom of the truck and the upper taillight inner rings blacked out.

This was my first Promo, my uncle gave this to me when I was in eighth grade. He got it buying the real car. I do have a few of those good Corvette packed away somewhere. The silver ones are 66 & 67, the black one I think was a 64, I sold it a few years ago as it was the old type plastic that warped although that one was pretty nice. The silver one were actually painted, not sure how many years they did that before going back to molded color.

Working on getting some shelves up, Someday I hope to build something again

I'll have to check out those pans. I have used step flashing from the building center. They are flat sheets that are about 5in x 8in? I'm not sure on the thickness but on most firewalls you don't see the edge anyway. Way cheaper than the hobby sheets.

It's hard to see in your photo but it looks to be there, just molded onto the bottom of the axle. I don't think it should be connected the axle at all, just the at the ends. The easiest would be to remove the molded on and bend one out of fine wire. I like using the green craft wire, come in several sizes and can be bend easily. On a side note, the inner front fender wells should be red.

Those tanks are handy to have but hooked to that little air compressor it may take a while to fill up. The long hose is a good idea.

Very Nice, I would get rid of the flathead fan belt on the pulleys. Everything else looks so real having the wheels fixed.

That is a great build Harry. I have a few of these to build someday, now I'm glad I waited. I hope to turn one of them into a 1923, had a real speedster I need to copy.

You can glass bead diecast with good results and no harm, although I have run across some of the powder coated farm toys that didn't work well. It was like a coat of rubber on it. As for your clear, sounds like bad paint, or the cover have a thin layer of vinyl over it. Enamel will not dry over that. I use Dupli-cover Acrylic Enamel in the rattle cans and get great results.

Thanks, I may have some of that old Double T kit, now just finding it.lol The 1/12 would probably be too small for 1/8 but that gave me an idea, I have some near 1/8 scale toy like built motorcycles stashed somewhere. Thanks guys

What they said. That camera should be fine. You will also find it is a great tool for getting that perfect finish when sanding or puttying. Those large photos will show imperfections you can't see with the naked eye.

I'm gathering some parts for a build and would like to know if there is a kit out there that would have this type of cycle fenders in it. Right now I want 1/25 scale but will need 1/8 scale as well. Thanks

That looks great, love the color. Very nice paint and the decals fit nicely.

Mike, That is awesome! I have two of the black ones. and this is very tempting.

That looks like a nicely done model, better than some of the cars they did in the past.

The gap issue happens when you get too much paint around hood or doors. I did repaint one once without stripping. Even sanding all the door and hood edges off the paint still looked thick, best to strip it. I don't remember what wheels they had. If the silver one has the correct wheels, you could just put them on the black one.

First, Welcome to the MCM. Sun Star made that car in black. Now that you already have a silver one, Do strip the paint. As said above the factory paint is thick and you will have gap issues. I use Mar-Hyde Air Craft paint remover in the spray cans, available at most auto parts stores. I have tried other brands of Air Craft remover and they just are not as good. Once cleaned off you will want to prime it with self etching primer, also from the parts store. Painting Zinc, similar to aluminum, is a little trickier than tin. Now you are ready to paint as usual. I do not know of anyone making the decals you need. You can post your progress in the "Diecast & Resin" section