brett

Thanks for your input guys, so far I've stripped it, its all in pretty good shape so will remove mold lines and tidy up a couple small glue spots.Paint wise, I'm gonna see if I've cured my little problem and do an updated version of the same sort of layout that was on the car. Chassis mmmmm..... might see if I can get the rocker covers and blower and hat off, chrome is all but gone, its even dustier than what I thought, did a little clean up with a wet q tip, you'll see where the chrome is pretty bad everywhere noticeably on the wheelie bars and front end both which are quite delicate and hard to replace so I may just try and gently clean and paint in place

great job as always John, the decal surgery seems to have been quite a success

Yes its the Johan kit fuel tank. no I havent really seen any with batteries (but I havent really looked either ) lol. All the tin work is completely different to ( at least the restored car) but its the kit the decals were made/sized to fit. But with the body down, as it will be, I wasnt sweating the details too much, love the look of the car, happy (as I get) with the build. Not meant to be a smart alek answer, sorry if it comes across as such, but as my health has been getting a lot worse lately, I wanna get built (as best I can) what I can, while I can.And if that means fudging some small details along the way then thats what will happen cause 98 percent of the population wont know any better.

thanks again, I'd like to do another though it would probably end up in drag race form

What would you do ? I got this really cheap through our model club, guy brought in a bunch of old builtups in various conditions and this is one that I got. Now the frame/chassis is pretty nicely done, chrome is starting to wear off a little but everything else is pretty good. The body is in great condition but brush painted, decals have had a few scrapes etc. now the question, should I strip it (1) just the body, cause thats all you really see anyway and repaint (have some of the decals including the crazy horse ones) or (2)the whole lot or (3) leave it as apiece of local modeling history. I'm tempted to just strip and repaint the body, the seat is pretty dusty but otherwise its all pretty good. The other thing was should I paint it the same? I'm tempted to do the same layout but jazzed up a little ( I'm thinking lace in the red stripes or maybe in the yellow parts) . Here's couple pics as it is

thanks again for all the comments, still have a couple little things to do as well as Alclad the injector scoop( really bad mold lines) and glue the front glass in

beautiful job, you really do superb work

you might want to stretch or replace the blower belt or at the very least wait it a few days after gluing the top pulley, it has a tendency of pulling the top pulley downwards otherwise

Super clean and beautiful paint Guy. Might have to actually build one like this.

killer work as always bro

great start Alan, think my engine might be Hemi orange. Yep that is a challenging paint job but the look of the finished car makes it worthwhile.

Thanks again. Charlie, if you're using Chuck Boerners decals they were designed to fit this body, that been said both front and rear wheel arch's are a little tight placement wise but they are way more user friendly than any other decals I've used.

you're doing a great job here Niko well done dude

Thanks again, much appreciated. Roger, no problem at all, I'm way thicker skinned (though some would say just thicker) than that, besides which you are the 70's pro stock guru in my book , so your advice and input is always valued here.

Thanks guys. Jim, they're airbrushed coarse aluminum with clear which settles the flake down , I'll try and remember to spray a couple spoons to show you the difference. Dave R, not sure but its been at least 6 months. As long as the container (in my case a little glass jar) is airtight they should last indefinitely .

thanks again folks I do appreciate the time taken to comment and am glad to know sometimes I get one right lol

Thanks again. Dave, Brutus. 71 mustang fc

very nice job !

its looking really good Andre, keep the pics coming bro

WOW, that paint is gorgeous, whole car looks great so far. I've got one to do as well but I'm terrified of those old decals as the last couple of polar lights ones were shot

Johan mustang kit, Chuck Boerner decals ( best decals I've ever used, so far), Duplicolor Cimmeron (sp) paint shot through airbrush. (been decanted a long time and can is long gone).

thanks guys , really appreciate it Ron, I'll head down to the local mitre 10 and get some. Thanks again.

sorry if this has been covered but I couldnt find it. Now 1st off I sand the body with 800 to remove any mold lines defects etc, then wash in reasonably hot water with a little bit dish wash in it and rub over with a scouring pad (only used for my cars), let air dry. Next day usually prime with 1:1 automotive primer shot through airbrush at about 25/30 psi 6- 8 inches away. Light coats, start on one side then front, top, other side back then repeat with a slightly heavier coat. Allow to dry about 10 hrs then wetsand with 1500 dry with tack rag , then apply color coats exactly the same way with a 3rd wetcoat. Again this is all lacquer based, let dry about 18 hrs wet sand with 2000 then clear 1 medium straight into 1 wetcoat. The problem arises when I mask off for a second color eg a stripe or even when I'm applying foil (BMF) , Its enough to lift paint in places. It's been a bit of an ongoing problem but definitely worse recently.

Thanks guys . Roger, I too am aware it wasnt a 71 cuda, just working with what I had, but it looks the part and it was fun so thanks again

Fantastic job so far Rich, cant wait to see it all together