Longbox55

About the only parts from the kit that could be used for a stock Henry J would be the body shell and perhaps the floor pan. Nothing else is stock in that kit.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wswrswgqrgttdkdxskfdgffqssfg,vi/rwbgssqgkxkrrqbtfrr/5/504634/5306104/photofile-vi.jpg Not my pic, but my box is identical.

Not to nitpick, but the engine you have in the Blazer frame is not correct for a '69. The correct engine, or at least the most recent source for one, is the engine from the Trumpeter Nova. I believe it's also being offered in resin, but I do not recall who is making it.

That is incorrect. I have a first issue of that kit, and it is clearly marked Monogram, with only mention of Revell in the copyright information on the box. It is 1/25 scale, and was tolled around the same time as the Monogram '59 Cadillac and '55 Chevrolet Convertible.

Any of the lye based purple degreasers will dissolve aluminum. That's why you never want to use it to strip die cast, as it will dissolve the metal. The tube you used must have been some pretty thick wall tubing, or your degreaser was getting weak, if anything was left after 5+ days, as I have seen fresh Superclean completely dissolve an aluminum soda can (it was a Tahitian Treat can) in under 30 minutes.

https://youtu.be/JiQx5O7EZJQ

Bear in mind, Ivy Bronze is a metallic color. It is also a Ford color. You might be able to get it in touch up paint.

Not any more. Ford didn't honor their end of the deal by not paying Navistar for the engines, so Navistar cancelled the contract. The new Powerstroke engines are in house built by Ford.

I gave it try on clear parts. Installed a couple headlamp lenses in their bezels from an AMT '57 Chevy truck. Worked great! Since it doesn't set up until you hit it with the led, it was very easy to align the lenses correctly, and it set up just fine, even through the clear plastic. No hazing at all, everything is crystal clear.

The Createx Auto Air line is aqueous based, however, you do not thin with water. You will need their reducer. In addition, you will also need the proper respirator. The specification for the respirator is noted on the bottle.

96%. MoPars got me.

It says to use acetone on the can.

1/24-ish. It's a pretty crude kit compared to the current offerings.

I know I'm bringing an old topic back up, but I picked up some Bondic over the weekend while I was in Indy for the Circle City model show. Found it at the Hobbytown USA in Greenwood. Haven't done much with it, yet, but do see some potential areas where it would come in handy. I do plan to try it on clear parts, mainly to see if the UV light can cure it through the clear plastic. I'm hoping the plastic will not filter out the UV, and allow it to cure.

It's also the only kit sourced correct engine for a 55-'62 Chevrolet.

I'm in the same boat. Unfortunately, my provider has made it virtually impossible to add any secondary accounts.

The Testors program is very basic, primarily just premade designs, some blank license plates, letter fonts, and a freeform blank page. They also have an expanded content option from the Sure Thing (which is their supplier) site that greatly expands the available premade content. The freeform blank page is really the best part of the program, great for making signage, plus you can resize images to whatever size you need. I use it with images of plates I have from other sources. The Testors decal paper is ok, Sure Thing is identical. I find that the best way to do them is to let the ink dry overnight to get a full cure before applying the bonder. Clear lacquer which is what their bonder essentially is) will also work for sealing them. The decals on this one, except for the contingency decals on the fenders, were all made using the Testors/Sure Thing program and paper.

Same kit. Only difference is the box, and perhaps the color of the plastic it's molded in. The Revell version was the first release, though.

Like Mark said, decals and plastic color are the only differences. If you've ever built one, the Revell Willys Pickup kit has the same chassis and running gear.

Neat kit. I have 6 of them in my stash right now waiting their turns. One suggestion I will make, especially if you're going to display it with a load on a bed/mounted box, or hooked up to a trailer, will be to make a slight alteration in the rear springs to let it sit level. I don't recall where I found it, but there are directions on how to modify the springs to lower the rear to a more appropriate "loaded" ride height. as the kit comes, the rear sits very high.

I have one of these, too. They're 1/20.

It's my understanding that the '72 Chevy that is in the current tool catalog is actually a combination of a retooled GMC and the MPC kit, using the best bits from each kit, plus some new added components. I've also heard that tow truck/fire truck bed tool has either been damaged or lost.