slantasaurus

One more change if you want to make it 100% correct, a 4 speed 440+6 would have had a Dana 60 rearend I believe the 71 Satilite and GTX kits both have 8 3/4 rears. A nice Dana can be found in the 70 RR/GTX/Superbird kits or the 69 Super Bee kit, you will need to cut the exhaust that is molded to them though (which I would do anyway). For steelies and hub caps you could use the wheels from the 70 RR kit (although those are later model "cop car wheels") or use the wheels/cap from the 70 RR kit.

Its hard to go wrong with the Revell 69 Daytona in either Pro Modeler or standard issue version. The Monogram/Revell 70 Superbird isn't a bad kit but the only version that has the correct decals is the older "Petty" version. The JoHan 70 Superbird has a great body but the chassis has molded in detail, it can be swapped out for the chassis/engine from an AMT68 RR or 69 GTX. The AMT 69 Daytona is best avoided, the nose fits poorly and the chassis detail is lacking, though again the chassis can be swapped with the AMT 68 RR or 69 GTX.

But remember, this is America not Europe. 1962 there were few interstates yet, but even Route 66 had long streches of stright road.

All of that concrete is going to have to be torn out and repoured. I hope the city sends him the bill instead of letting the taxpayers pay for it.

The biggest differences would be standard engines, the RR had the 383 or 340 as a no cost option and the GTX had the 440. The 440 6 bbl and Hemi were optional on both. The other big difference was interior The RR had a bench seat standard and the GTX had buckets. Buckets were optional on the RR. Standard hoods were the same for the 2 cars (which can be found in the 71 Satillite kit), the Air Grabber hood was optional on both cars, standard with the Hemi engine. There were also different stripes for each car. The GTX also had a ribbed chrome rocker trim that wasn't on the RR. Bottom line, depending on how the cars were optioned a RR and GTX could only differ in the badging and stripes. The kit that Monogram released as a 71 Satillite was actually a RR but Monogram couldn't get the licensing to call it a RR because MPC had the license at that time. The 71 Satillite tooling was then modified to make the GTX kit. Model Car Garage has a photoetch set for these cars that would help in the conversion.

Looks good Rob, maybe you can get some paint on it before that FL humidity kicks in. I think that Lightning White would look good on that coupe.

Sure, once you post pics I'll add you to the list. Andy, looking at your engine pic it looks like the cylinder head for the drives side could have been glued a little lower.....that would help the blower and manifold fit better. Its always a good idea to test fit the intake and both heads before glueing, then you can adjust the location of the heads to get the best fit. Why don't you see if you can get that head loose and reglue it, I'll bet the intake fits better then.

There were a handful of aftermarket wheels, but not many and they certainly weren't common except on race cars.

Sure Andy, but think of all the time we saved you deciding what wheels to use.

Perhaps I should have quoted Dave's (Double D) post in my reply about the Wrangler. As far as my favorite kit I think I would say the Monogram Dusenbergs, all 4 of them are great kits that go together with no issues, the subject matter is great and the look good when finished. My only complaint about them would be that they are all supercharged when the majority of Duseys were non-supercharged. It would be nice to have the non-supercharged parts to mix and match different cars. AAM used to make the non-supercharged parts in resin but those are long out of production and very hard to find.

I'm not aware of any accuracy problems with the Tamiya Wranglers all I can say about them is that the engine detail is very soft and the transfer case is a joke. If there are any problems it may be because they seem to be Euro spec Jeeps rather than US spec, I have noticed the side markers are different. Myself, I son't care how nice or accurate Tamyia kits are there is little subject matter that intrests me. In my collection I have somewhere over 600 kits only 4 of them are Tamyia. I can't say much for the other foreign kit makers, I have 2 Fujimi kits and 2 Italeri kits and thats about it. I'm not much for European cars and have zero intrest in Asian cars.

The Halibrand "Kidney bean" wheels and also the rectangular opening wheels both would have been availible. The multi spoke wheels also found in the AMT parts pack were around circa 1962, I have pictures of a very similar wheel on Tex Smith's AMBR winner the XR-6. Kelsey-Hayes wire wheels go back at least as far as the mid-50's as they could be ordered on high end Caddys, Chryslers, and Thunderbirds. Looking through the few vintage issues of Hot Rod that I have there are a few pictures of Gassers with 4 and 5 hole Slotted mag wheels.

I guess we can be confident that steel wheels were availible in 1962 .

Yeah, there aren't a lot of wheel choices for a 1962 era build. I'm not sure, does anyone know when Cragar S/S wheels came out ?

I guess I don't have to say anything about the wheels, but the paint looks great !!!

Really Dave ??? The T-bolt falls short for me with that "tub" interior. What is this 1970 ??? By the time the T-bolt was tooled AMT had already gone to the platfor style interior but the T-bolt seemed to be the last kit that had the hold out interior tub with almost no door panel detail (ok, real T-bolts didn't have a lot of door panel detail either, but still). The Camaro has always been missing the chrome around the vents in the rear quarters. This trim was standard on Z-28's and RS Camaros but has been missing on every issue of the kit. The only version it is correct to not have the trim is the Yenko COPO. Sorry, you have ripped apart ever other kit on this list, thought I'd bring those 2 down a notch.

57 Chrysler 300C is one of the best AMT kits ever. Both 66 Fairlanes are nice too. For GM's the 70 Camaros and 66 Olds 442 would rank at the top for me.

Yeah, sure......Mercedes is trustworthy...........just ask Chrysler !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Is that politically incorect ??? Should I be refering to them as Asians ???

Why are you sure that Revell is aware of the problem ? Revell sells kits, they don't build many, its the consumer who finds problems like these more often than not. It is up to Revell to fix the problem, that is what I was saying. Revell has to put the screws to the manufacturing company to fix the problem though, the Chineese aren't going to do it on their own out of the goodness of their hearts........these are the same people who put poisons in baby food and pet food.......use leaded paint on kids toys and MANY other health/safety violations. Revell has to put the pressure on, but the problem has to be fixed at the factory level, thats in China.

Harry, my comment was refering to the Chineese not being aware of the problem in the 60s/70s. Do you really think there were many Chineese building kits of American cars at that time ???

I think everyone is missing the real problem here. Yes, this has been an issue in the past and the manufacturers found the problem and corrected it. The problem now is where the kits are being made, China not the USA. When Revell had this problem years ago the kits were made in house and they made sure they corrected the problem of recapuring the plasticizer, as Art stated. Now the kits are being made in China, they have no knowlage (or just don't care) about this. What we all need to do is make Revell aware of this problem so they can put the screws to the Chineese company that does their kits to correct the problem. Otherwise, we will be dealing with it for sometime to come. Next, we need to figure out if this is a problem with all Revell tires or just on the 48 Ford kit. Maybe there is/was just a bad batch with the first run of tires. If its just the 48 Ford tires they Revell can isolate the problem, if its all tires they something has to change in the manufacturing. Either way, Revell needs to be made aware of the problem or it won't get fixed.

It seems Ford can't take a joke.... http://www.dailyfinance.com/2012/02/07/ford-cant-seem-to-take-a-joke-but-its-not-the-end-of-the-worl/

I just check my parts stash and I'll try to help. The 69 GTX kit (hardtop) has both 6 bbl and 4 bbl intakes and carbs, it also has 2 belt/pully set ups, 1 with and 1 w/o power steering. The 70 Super Bee kit also has both belt/pully set ups but only the 6 bbl intake/carbs. The belt pully sets will work on the 71 Duster's 340 or 71 Charger 440 to eliminate the A/C. Automatic transmissions can be found in the 71 Charger or any of Lindberg's 64 Dodge kits, but to put them behind the Duster's 340 you'll have to do some cutting so the resin option may be best there. The Lindberg 64 Dodge kits also have belt/pully with no P/S and will work on both the 340 or 440 engines. Also, if you can find a Lindberg "Color Me Gone" version of the 64 Dodge it has the ONLY correct set of big block headers which can be used on the 71 Charger's 440, although not completely correct with a little tweeking they can also be used on the 71 Duster's 340. Also, though still not correct, small block Chevy headers from the AMT Nascar kits will also work on the 71 Duster's 340 engine. One more note, if you raid an automatic transmission from the 71 Charger you can swap the 4 speed trans/bellhousing from the 69 GTX or 70 Super Bee kits (might be easier to just swich the whole engine/trans) you would also need to swich the rear ends between these kits. The 71 Charger kit has an 8 3/4 rear while the 69 GTX and 70 Super Bee has a Dana 60. Between these kits you should be able to build almost any combination you want.

A Chevy truck ??? Really ???........My money is on a Slant 6 Duster !!!.........and Keith Richards. http://news.discovery.com/autos/2012-doomsday-reaches-chevy-superbowl-ad-120103.html#mkcpgn=twvel1 .....................and Barry Manilow ???.........we're ALL doomed !!!