slantasaurus

Mobieus has sold at least 5000 Nascar versions alone, not counting the stock and convertible kits. How do I know ?? There was a "limited run" of 2000 Tim Flock cars, 2000 Marshall Teauge cars, and now another run of 1000 Tim Flock kits. Factor in the stock and convertible kits and I'd bet they have run at least 20000 kits by now and they ain't done yet.

E ??? Thought that was the F type as the article says.....

Looking at the calendar, Friday November 30th seems like the logical time to end the build. Zen, that might actually be sometime on Dec 1st where you're at.

Ahhhhhhhhh !!!! People are building. I better get back to work on my Dart. Zen, the conversion is coming along nicely. Nick, the Merc looks great. I wasn't sure about the 2 tone paint at first but its starting to grow on me. vw dave, I will add you to the list with your Merc. Luna, I think Andy might have finished his 55 Chevy already, if not I know he was close to finished. Also, 08seal (Liam) finished his 50 Ford F1 a while back. There are quite a few builders we haven't heard from in a while I wonder how they are doing.......... Myself, after posting pics after adjusting the wheelbase of the Dart I was looking at the pics and decided the front wheels looked like I moved them too far. While I was building it looked right but sometimes it takes looking at pictures of your builds to notice something is off. I've already started to move the K member forward 1mm which is still 1 mm back from its original location, I'm about half way through doing that. Since I'm off work tomorrow I should be able to finish that up. Then I still have to start on the interior........and finish the engine.......and paint everything............eh, 2 months should be plenty of time to finish it right at the wire.

The engine in the other rail is a 413 Max Wedge Chrysler, supercharged and injected.

I don't know if its about saving money as much as NOT having to spend 3 day in Cleveland.......

NO, this is The End....... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGmAmJFUvzM

The JoHan curse strikes again...........

Harry, you must have some tickets or something in your past. I renewed my license by mail 8 years, this is nothing new.

I'm not sure if this is better or worse than fart cans........but it sure is funny !!! http://www.cracked.com/quick-fixes/the-logical-next-step-in-auto-modification-technology/?wa_user1=2&wa_user2=Weird+World&wa_user3=quickfix&wa_user4=feature_module

There was the 1962 Mustang II show car/concept that was made into a kit by Lindberg (was this originally an IMC tooling??) but thats the only other one I can think of. I'm not sure what engine it had though, 260 maybe, I'm sure someone who has built the kit will jump in.

Don't forget the Plymouth Prowler, that one made it from concept to production without any changes.

Dodge did make a few Tomahawks, only about 10, for sale to the public thru the Neeman Markus Christmas catalog a few years ago....

Yep, saw that this morning........

How about a list of GMs worst cars.........oh right, we don't have enough space for that.......

Nice work Zen too bad nobody makes a GMC grille since GMC used Pontiac engines back then. from the Lindberg kit: leafs shortened 1 mm: To make the change I simply cut the leaf just in front of the rearend pearches and shortened the front segments. Then I drilled all of the pieces out and super glued a piece of wire into the holes to pin them together and give them some strength. The K member was much more involved. In the Lindberg kit there are 8 attachment points for the front end parts, 4 blocks where the K member attaches to the front frame rails, 2 blocks that attach the lower control arms, and the 2 upper control arms where the spindles attach. First thing I did was cut off the lower control arm "blocks" and attach them to the actual lower control arms on the K member piece. On a real 62 (or any year Mopar B body) these pieces wouldn't actually exist, they just give the plastic pieces extra support. Well, actually, just the part that ataches to the frame rails wouldn't exist, part of this piece would be part of the real lower control arm where the torsion bar enters it. Next I cut away all 4 of the blocks where the K member attaches to the frame rails. Again, these pieces wouldn't exist on a real car. In 1:1 the K member would bolt directly into the frame rails. Once the blocks were removed I white glued ( I can't tell you how much I love Micro Krystle Kleer) them to the K member and relocated the K member where the wheels were centered in the wheelwells and marked where the blocks should go. "stock" K member location: "new" K member location: I moved the K member back 2 mm. I left the upper control arms in place for all of this work so that I had a reference point to work off of. The blocks are now glued into their new location on the front frame rails but the K member still isn't glued on yet. Next step will be cutting the upper control arms from the frame and relocating them. Side note; if I was working with an AMT chassis (68 Road Runner, 69 GTX, or 70 Coronet) all of this work would have been MUCH easier as the front frame rails are molded as a seperate piece and I could have cut the mounting pins and slid the whole thing backwards 2 mm. Second side note; I was discussing all of this work with my friend Chris (von Zipper) and he asked a simple question. "wouldn't it have been easier to cut the frame rails and remove 2 mm then reattach them?" Short answer.......YES !!!......but.......I would have had to have known that the wheelbase was going to be adjusted before starting this build. When I did start, you might remember, the chassis out of the box didn't fit under the JoHan 62 body so I had to cut away at the rear of the chassis and the front splash pan. If I had known ahead of time I would have to adjust the wheelbase I could have cut the frame rails then and although I would still have had to trim the front splash pan it wouldn't have been as much. Since I had already cut the splash pan if I had cut the front frame rails I would have ended up with a gap at the front between the body and the chassis. The way Chris suggested doing it would actually be the prefered way to do this as it would move the radiator back also which would be more correct than the way I'm doing things but as I've stated, I didn't know all of this when I started. Who would have though that it would have been so much work to put a 64 Mopar chassis under a 62 Mopar ???.....in 1:1 they are essentially the same, in plastic, the Lindberg kit is VERY off in many dimentions compaired to the real car. Its surprising that nobody on any forum has ever called them out on these kits (the 64 Plymouth has many of the same dimentional problems). Now that all of that is sorted out the only real hurtles left are correcting the dept of the interior and paint. The interior should be pretty easy, I'm not even going to bother trying to add more detail to the JoHan door panels even though I'd like to, that seems like too much of a challenge, I think I'll just add the arm rests from the Lindberg kit and extend them down to meet with the chassis. Paint might give me a problem as I've never tried to paint in this kind of climate and I'll be using an old can of Testors enamel rather than the new laquers I've gotten used to over the past few years.

That gold and white does have a very 1960's show car look to it. My rant is a little different since I'm not quite ready to lay paint on the Dart. Last night I pulled out the kit to work on the front and rear suspentions and realized I had no model glue. When I left Chicago a few months ago I packed up my supplies and I know I was low on glue but I must have left it behind figueing I could get more down here. The really frustrating part is that I was at Hobby Lobby yestrerday after work (and also right next to a Hobbytown USA) but I didn't know I was out of glue then. Now I'm off work for 2 days and if I want to work on the model I have to drive 30 miles into Tampa or back to Lakeland to get glue.............Its always something.....if its not one thing its another. If its not too humid to paint, you're out of glue. (Read that last part in Roseanne Roseannadanna's voice).

With all of these completed models pictured in this thread I'm surprised that Harry or Casey hasn't moved it to the Under Glass section....

Nice work on the 55 Andy, the red and white look good and I think it will do better in the final voting that a plain primer finish. Also, congrats on you Gearz/Revell contest win. I've done a little more with the Dart. As I've mentioned before this kit came with no wheel backs and nothing from my parts box fit the JoHan tires so I tried to make some discs out of sheet plastic to act as wheel backing pieces. The first half dozen or so attempts didn't go so well and I only had 2 somewhat useable pieces. While talking to a very good friend of mine (von Zipper, aka Chris) he sugessted chucking some sheet plastic into my Dremel and turning it down to make the wheel backs. It worked pretty well once I got one down to the right size, ( I did make a couple that were too small at first). With wheel backs made I could finally mock up the suspention and check wheelbase, ride height, wheel centering in the openings, and width of the Duster rearend I'm using. I'm sure you can guess where this is going by now.........Everything was off. The Duster rearend was an easy enough fix, just trimmed 1/16" off each end and the track width seemed about right. Wheelbase and centering in the openings are going to take a little more work. The Lindberg kit that I'm using for the chassis must be off a little as I measured the wheelbase at 118/119" (in scale), it should be 116".The rear wheels are placed too far rearward in their openings and need to move forward about 1.5-2mm. The front wheels are too far forward in their openings and need to move about 2mm rearward. This should give me a correct 116" wheelbase. Anyway, here are the pics of where things are (incorrectly) at. I'll detail the modifications I'll be making to correct things in later posts, I already have an idea of how I'm going to tackle the problem. I also mocked up the Max Wedge exhaust manifolds on the engine to see if they were going to give me a problem later down the line, everything seemed to fit there (we'll see if that is the case later in the build......much like last years Capri).

I finally got around to uploading my pics, haven't done any work to it since I took them a few weeks ago though... The radiator support needed some work to mate with the hood, the white part is Evergreen I added. Now the inner fenders, firewall and core support all fit like they should... I started mocking up the rearend, the 8 3/4 is from a Duster kit and seems to be the right width. These are the JoHan kit wheels and tires that I'll be using.

Harry, I would have been happy to renew my Illinois plates. I just did a title transfer and plates in FL and it cost me almost $400.......and its only good for 6 months before I have to spend another $57 to renew for a year.....Not to mention the extra cost of insurance down here.

Legos were great...........until you stepped on one barefoot.

You can tell that photo had been doctored......the 0 and 1 are too close together and the first 2 is shifted over too far.

Hey wait a minute............how could they go to the year 2015 if the world is supposed to end Dec 21, 2012 ???

Well, sorta....Its a Flathead with an Ardun Hemi head conversion.