Sport Suburban

Never thought of that and I have a MIG. Have both .023 and .030 wire!

I was wondering if anyone here adds extra detail to a chassis like brake lines and fuel lines. If so what do you use and how do you attach it? Any photo references would be helpful. More specifically, my project is a 70 GTO. I swapped in the chassis from the AMT 69 Olds 442 and a 400 engine from the Revell 68 Firebird. I'm wiring and plumbing the motor and plan battery cables. I have never added the hard brake lines before and am thinking of doing that too. Any tips would be helpful.

I also have a few of these started in different stages. These kits will really test you skill and patients. The interesting part is the rear bumpers. I have an original 1971 GTO kit and that bumper is too wide also but it has 1971 on the plate. All the 72 rereleases also have the really wide bumper but the 1970 GTO kit has a narrower rear bumper that also fits these kits and looks right. I have three of the 1988 issues of the 70 GTO. As much as the two kits share it is interesting that the bumpers are different widths.

I agree that it is not that accurate especially the bumpers. Perry's kit is much nicer than the R&R kit. I had that one also and sold it. My best friend had a 69 Skylark Custom with a 69 GS hood. I would love to build a 69 GS 400 convertible someday. That is why I bought them.

It is an interesting car to research. Here are a few facts. They are all 1999 models even though they were built from 1998-2005. Officially 249 were built as new cars and they were all silver at first. These 249 have 17 digit Vin numbers. Shelby Sold the rights to build this car to Venture Corporation and they took over production. When the 5 year license expired they kept making them as incomplete component cars just like the Cobras. Still as 1999 models but now with CSX5000 vin numbers. These later cars can be any color. Venture eventually went bankrupt and Shelby bought what was left back for cheap. These are also mostly GM components and electronics.

I was in high school when the Revell 69 Camaro kits came out. I don't remember which one came out first but I think it was the Yenko. I enjoyed building that so much that I bought all three versions ( Baldwin and Z/28) when they came out. I still have the Baldwin and Yenko from back then. It is such a good kit that I have bought more of them. I have 3 of the converts, 3 Z/28s, 1 Yenko, 2 Baldwin, and 1 ZL1. So that is the result of a great time building the first ones. Another one for me is the 66 Shelby GT350. I built a GT350H back then and a 66 GT350 back in 88 I think. I wanted the 65 GT350 so bad but could not find one untill I got back in the hobby in 2000. I finally got one through eBay back then when they were just getting going. I probably have 10 kits of that tooling and built all variants of it!

I finished one and have a second one that I messed up the paint job. I recently started redoing it. Test fit every step as I had some parts that were finicky. I remember the hoses interfering with the hood closing.

Casey, The 70 Cuda is an E body. I hope you were thinking Aspen / Volare when you posted F body and not the GM Camaro / Firebird. We might have to take your Mopar card away!

The first version first batch sold out fast. I got one of that batch that had the 7 cylinder distributor. The Sox and Martin batch had a corrected 8 cyl distributor. I got one of those from that batch and a friend of mine was so excited for the kits but could not get them anywhere! Everyone was sold out at that time. I traded him both kits for a vintage kit I really wanted! (MPC 68 GTO) Then when the second batch of 70 Hemi Cudas became available, I got one of them and it had the corrected distributor! I would love to see a 70 Hemi Cuda conv also but I already built one years ago from the 71 kit.

I understood that hole was their in the event that if the nozzle blew off the can that the cap would contain the nozzle and the hole would help vent the gasses and keep the cap on. But if that is true then that does not explain why some do and some don't. The bigger question is: Why is it CARgo if sent by ship and a SHIPment if it is sent by truck?

Not every listing is free. I get 50 free listings a month but I don't have a store. You have to pay monthly for that. After I used up my 50 free listings. A model part is $1 to list and if it sells you pay a fee. It is 10% of the final value. Final value is total invoice price with shipping. So it does not matter to eBay if you start it at $1 and $14 to ship or offer free shipping and start it at $15. As for the prices of parts if they sell then that is what they are worth. I have sold many vintage parts and helped out many modelers who needed a part that was missing. I have been accused of parting out a perfect kit but that is not true. It would not make sense to buy a kit for $200 then part it out unless the parts sold for $300 or more. I got what I needed from the kit and sold the rest. Some parts are worth more than others. Most body parts and stock parts get the most. The custom parts don't usually sell as well. I build factory stock and have sold off the unused custom parts. Helps put money back in my hobby fund. I watch a lot of stuff on eBay and if you keep watching for deals and they do turn up! Others are shocking. I just watched this sell!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/321940684568?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I have two of these and if they are selling for this I may be listing one.

Those two kits are basically the same kit. The tooling is the same but has some revisions or restoration work on the tool itself. This was due to wear and tear on the tooling. The kit still builds up well but the earlier kits had better front bumpers and headlights.

That is a 65. If it is the annual it should say 1965 on the bumpers.

Modelhaus does not offer the door scoops separate from the body. They are molded to the original MPC body.

Here is a comparison shot of the decal sheets. Left is Fred Cady, middle is 2009 Hurst issue, and right is 2015 Pace Car issue. I can't tell you which one would be correct because of lighting in reference pictures. I personally like the more gold ones from the 2009 issue. What I find more interesting is that the 2009 kit has 127 parts and is skill level 3, the 2015 reissue has 143 parts and is skill level 5 !! Besides the uptop, hood and grill, I don't see anything else. What is also funny for me is that I am building the resin 72 Olds 442 convertible that I bought from Modelhaus 8 years ago, Plus the W30 upgrade parts. I originally bought it to make the pace car with the Cady decals but it had the wrong grill! Then came the 2009 issue that had everything but the lettering. So I decided to build the Modelhaus kit as a 72 Olds 442 W30 convert. Now this kit has all the parts I need for that car!! I had to buy it!

Didn't Hudson have an open scoop on the hood before Ford?

These proposals are very insightful and some solutions I had not thought of before. I would love photo etch emblems. Also on the 70 Javelin I would like to see the Mark Donahue package. Add some group 19 parts like the cross ram intake, headers and side pipes! I'm actually building a Mark Donahue street car from a resin copy of the Johan kit right now!

Yes you are correct on the bodies but on the model kit. Would you mold the doors and fenders separate from the body. Or build the body mold in such a way as to have a mold line right down the side of the quarter. Then what about the emblems? I prefer molded on emblems as opposed to decals. The 68 Javelins have emblems on the fenders and 68 AMX does not.

My guess is only 30% of the tool could be reused from 68-70 Javelin to AMX. The parts that would stay the same are all engine parts, radiator, all the separate front suspension parts, and all the separate rear suspension parts. The exhaust, driveshaft, and chassis plate would have to be different. The only parts of the interior that would stay the same is the dash, steering wheel, front bucket seats, console if offered and windshield. The main tub would be different as the AMX has no back seat and rear window is different. The only body parts that would interchange would be the bumpers. But if the front grill is molded to the front bumper it would be different. Hoods are different. Depending on how the taillights are molded they would be different also because of an emblem. Wheels would be the same but why not offer different wheels while you are at it. This does not account for year differences. 68 AMX vs 68 Javelin and 70 AMX vs 70 Javelin. If you go 68 AMX to 70 Javelin than everything body and interior will be different.

I'm betting it is the same as this version released about 10 years ago when the remake movie came out. It did have a few different parts. It has a new two piece dash, front bumper without guards, a new hood (it was different than the yankee hood with the hole). The hood was the same style just more boxy looking. I prefer to fill the hole in the yankee hood. It also had rallye wheels and Hemi style valve covers for the 440. This kit was released after the Vanishing point kit and had all the new parts as well.

That is them that is for sure! I have seen them in person. Is that the final display of them at the museum in Salt Lake?

Since this thread started a few years back, I finished a 69 Javelin SST. I have almost completed a 70 Javelin Mark Donahue special. Plus I stared a pair of AMXs (69 and 70). I would love to see more!

The decal sheet is very nice and may be why this kit is so much. For a while nobody had Trans Am on the decal sheet. Even the Revell kit was missing them. My older kit of the 79 Trans Am anniversary kit, it had decals that had the entire alfabet in the font so you could make it say Trans Am on the car but it was the way they had gotten away from the licensing but still giving us the decals. Also remember GM paid licensing fees to the SCCA for every Trans Am they sold. GM never owned the rights to the name!

I bought it directly from MFH. I tried to order off the web sight but ran into a problem. So I sent an email. They did respond and sent me a Paypal invoice that I paid. Paypal will do the currency conversion.

I built one many years ago. The Jimmy Flintstone body is an RT/SE with the small rear window and vinyl top. It is not the cleanest casting and will require some work and thinning. That is to be expected with a Flintstone body. I'm pretty sure the shaker hood does fit the body but I did not use it. I don't believe the rest of the body has any corrections that I can recall from the AMT body. I can post pics of mine after I get home.