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Check McMaster Carr for filtering screens. many sizes available and you should be able to get extremely close. http://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-cloth/=10mh07h Also check your big box store kitchen utensils for sifters and wire collanders. There is a TON of household stuff that can be repurposed into model car parts. Look at office supply's for pencil holders and stuff like that. Also go to any craft supply store. LOOK at EVRYTHING! There is a TON of stuff out there if you just think about it and how to use it. Mark

Yea, you're right. May be a good start to "make" some IDA's though... They are 1/24th scale and the shape is right.

Don't the Sprint car kits have DownDraft Webers on them?

Like Bill said, there is very little difference between any of the small block chevys. The first year 265 (55) had no oil filter. that was fixed in 1956 with a big spin-on cartridge style filter. Some inherent differences in exhaust manifolds up through the years and generator to alternator differences but most of those will be overlooked by "most" modelers unless they also build the big (1:1) models... Mark

Yea, this brings back memories! I mastered a '56 Chevy two door post car out of AMT's 1/16th scale 55 Hardtop. The side windows in the master were made from Red Roof Inn "No Smoking" placards they leave on the nightstands or tables... http://images41.fotki.com/v1288/photos/5/904975/8367422/100_1474-vi.jpg

In the 1:1 painting world panel wipes (Prep-Sol, Pre-Kleeno, B-4, etc.) will not remove silicone. Been there, done that. I use TriSodiumPhosphate mixed in hot water to scrub any surface that may be comtaminated with silicone. Think Armor All... Everytime I start prepping a car for paint it wash it with hot water and TSP. A couple of times before I start doing any paint or body work. TSP is available at any hardware store, ask for it. Mark

Paint is paint, Elyashiv... You stated in your first post you like to spray laquer. Well, if ANY paint is not a "modeling" paint, laquer would be it... Laquer is NOT condusive to spraying on plastic. You have to use a good primer to keep the laquer from attacking the plastic. Nail polish IS laquer. It mixes and sprays just like it. If you look at the pics I posted in one of my threads you can see it looks just fine. There is no reason to not be satisfied with it unless you just can't spray it well... Mark

I've already told you "where to get them..." Take that picture anywhere that sells nail polish and have them match it as close as they can... It's really that easy. And it shouldn't cost you 25 dollars either. You could have the colors today if you did this... Mark

That's the thing with nail polish. It comes in every shade under the sun. I bet you can find a match to your orange the first place you look. You said you like to spray laquer. Nail polish IS laquer. It is very cheap compared to other sources and if you check it out I think you'll like it. this Camaro was base coated with chrome silver nail polish http://images22.fotki.com/v519/photos/9/904975/4650494/MVC007F-vi.jpg Then sprayed with an orange similar to Sunset Orange. http://images22.fotki.com/v518/photos/9/904975/4650494/MVC017F-vi.jpg The "paint" cost was about 6 bucks if I remember right. Mark

Any Nascar kit will have 4 of them in it. I am sure someone on the site will have a few spares they can trade for or give away. Mark

No, you are looking for orange and black paint. Sorry, I didn't check your location before posting. If you can find fingernail polish in Israel it mixes and sprays just like laquer paint. Be a whole lot cheaper then buying automotive paint in pint or quart cans. Mark

Take your colors to the fingernail polish aisle at Walmart (maybe bring the wife along?). Fingernail polish mixes and sprays exactly like laquer. If you are doing a complete body pick up at least 3 bottles to make sure you have enough. If you go to Big Lots or the Dollar Stores the polish is cheap... Mark

Hey John, I used to make aluminum sleeves for the So-Real Swampers. I can probably make up a set for if you want. Pm me and we can discuss it. Mark

Looks pretty cool! Good job! Although we do need to see some "in the dark" pics...

If he is looking for the "smaller" ones he is probably looking for this style: http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/700/707/707-r2196.jpg http://www.jegs.com/p/RPC/RPC-Super-Flow-Open-Screen-Air-Cleaner/3451146/10002/-1 I do remember one or two being available in kits. Was one of them a version of Revell's 37 Ford? I really can't remember...

If you can find a resin caster to take these on I'll work with them on cost. Mark

If you want to check a 35 page build thread look here: http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/20086-The-BAD-AST-Project-Faze-II?highlight There is a TON of fab and design work in this thread. If you are into 1:1 model building this is a good read. The actual build starts in earnest on pg. 9 and it gets hit pretty hard for a few years. 2011 thu 2013. I haven't done anything with the van since Nov of '13. Got behind on a lot of honey do's, built a lot of tools and other projects have sprung up but, I will be getting back at it this winter. Mark

Hi Len! Happy New Year and hope all is well. Nope, not a Camaro. Astro Van. A very different take on one of these. You usually see them Pro Streeted but I am going Pro Touring with this one. Designed and built a full frame, front and rear suspensions and rebuilt ALL of the wheel wells and floors to get an 8" drop. A 509 BBC, TH400 with Gear venders OD and a 9" ford with 3.75's makes up the drive train. These tires I modeled are the sizes I am using on the van. 275/40-17's in front with 345/35-18's in back. http://images60.fotki.com/v662/photos/5/904975/10488983/MVC015F-vi.jpg http://images16.fotki.com/v220/photos/5/904975/10342090/MVC005F-vi.jpg

Sorry guys. Resin casting these is the only way to make them affordable and no aftermarket casters have shown any interest at all in picking them up. I did the aftermarket parts dance for 15 years with MAS. I got VERY burnt out and don't want to get back into that routine. If ANY casters are interested in doing these holler. I will give you a deal on the masters! Mark

Go to Jegs or Summit to get some pics of a trans brake switch. This is simple to make out of some scrap sprue or small diameter tubing. Here are a ton of reference pics from the Jegs site. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&itemPerPage=60&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=trans+brake+switches

Pick up some ceramic brake caliper paint. I use this paint on brand new intake manifolds and water pumps. It look s EXACTLY like the raw cast aluminum but doesn't take stains at all. Give it a try, I think you'll like it. Mark

Thanks Tom, I modeled them to fit a true 16" diameter rim. If Ron ever casts them I will turn trim rings to fit that he can cast as well. I can always turn aluminum though if anyone wants that. Mark

Who's doing the modeling? What resolution printer? Material? Unless the parts come out very smooth there isn't too much you can do with them without a ton of sanding and prep work. I'm just bringing this stuff up because 3D printed parts are far from perfect unless you pay top dollar for the printing process. At that point the cost outweighs what the parts are worth to a cheap ass model car guy... Mark

I modeled up some 1/16th scale cheater slicks a few years ago. Had them 3D Printed and gave the master to Ron Andrews of RMR Resin. Holler at him to get them cast! Mark http://images16.fotki.com/v301/photos/5/904975/11003171/MVC003F-vi.jpg http://images20.fotki.com/v106/photos/5/904975/11003171/MVC006F-vi.jpg

The .125 thick body is only that thick because that is what is needed to get the hot liquid plastic to flow in the mold without creating knit lines and cold spots. You don't have to use that thick to build parts from. For most scratch building I use .010 to .015 thick sheet plastic. Much easier to cut and shape then the heavy stuff. Round rod in .010 thru .030 will come in handy also. Mark