astroracer

A trip to the local craft store will get you some very convincing braided line if you look through the beading section. You can also build the aluminum fittings for next to nothing using some 1/16th aluminum tubing, a file, a hex shaped pin vise and a hobby knife. If you want to know more just ask. Mark

I would hate to see you bin it, Ken. Did you test fit all of the moving panels before shooting paint? That is pretty much mandatory with kits like this. You also have to think about paint thickness when test fitting the panels. If they are too tight before paint they will not fit right afterwards. if the glue on the windows isn't too bad you can sand it out. Start with 600 grit and work your way up to 1200 or 1500 and then shoot clear on them. Mark

What are you looking for? I had these printed in 1/24th scale. I can do 1/12th and 1/8th. Mark

Harry, There is nothing that can be said to make this better or to help understand why. You have a tough road ahead and I think you need to let your family know so they can be there with you. It's hard enough to learn this but it's even harder when you do it alone. Gather your family, fill them in and let them help and support you as this goes forward. Prayers for you and yours. I have a 40 year old nephew going through this exact same thing right now. I hope this is caught soon enough to fix it. Mark

Exactly. I did a '56 2 door post conversion to AMT's 1/16th scale '55 Hardtop. There were so many things wrong with the original body it wasn't funny. I just bit the bullet, did the conversion so it looked good and called it a day. Mark

Thanks Bill. It is fun, something different every day and I see (and hear) some incredible cars running around out here. The best thing is, it is only 30 miles from my house AND an easy drive. Much better then the 70 miles (one way) I was driving down I75 to get to Warren... I start at 5:30am and get out at 2:00pm. Leaves me the whole afternoon to work in the shop. Mark

Just be mindful when you crack them open. If they aren't full to the top add some thinner to top them off. If you don't they will spray funny as the paint will be too thick. Mark

Just be careful with the pre-thinned paint. If it sits for very long the thinner will evaporate out, even if the bottle hasn't been opened... I stay away from the pre-mixed stuff just for that reason. Mark

I've used Elmer's White Glue for many years. Same thing, hit the parts with hot water and they fall apart. I have also used Tacky Glue and hot glue with no problems. Mark

Paint is paint. It's either solvent based (lacquers and enamels) or chemical based (two part urethanes, BC/CC, etc.). What is the Gravity Paint based on? What do you thin it with? Plastikoat sandable grey and Duplicolor sandable grey should both work well under any of them. You may also want to check out fingernail polish. It is lacquer based and sprays very well when mixed with lacquer thinner. It sprays over both primers beautifully! Mark

I am a Senior Designer at GM. I work at the Milford Proving Grounds doing Advanced Concept Driveline and Chassis Design. I also support all of the Test Cells here in Milford and in Pontiac with Fixture and Adapter design. Previous to this stint I was doing Chassis and Suspension Design in Flint and then in Warren. I did the suspension designs for the Solstice/Skye and the Cadillac DTS as well as doing bubble up work on the latest truck program until I volunteered for this position. Mark

Which is what I was saying. Use the roof as is in the Monogram kit and add the new doors and some window frames. NOBODY is going to know the difference or even be able to see it in that scale. Cutting it up is just making a lot more work then is necessary. Mark

The 4 door conversion is pretty easy on these cars. Nothing is different besides the length and number of the doors. The wheel base is the same and the roof is the same so all you are left with is filling in and re-scribing the doors and building B pillars out of sheet stock. If you want to do some research Google '57 Chevy sheet metal. Cars Inc., Danchuk, Sherman's, and a number of other aftermarket shops sell all of the replacement sheet metal and even provide a few diagrams. Mark

Get some ScotchBrite, the grey is a fine grade. Use that in place of sandpaper to get into small details and compound curves. I use ScotchBrite exclusively when prepping for paint unless there is a lot of blocking to do. Mark

I usually soak the rattle cans in hot water before spraying, well above 90 degrees... believe me, and I have never seen or had that happen... And shaking should have nothing to do with it... Don't know what to say here except get an airbrush. ? Mark

Love the gloves! Keep him interested, we need the young ones to keep the hobby alive!

And I'm just saying if the surface is rough enough to require sanding, spraying clear over it will not fix it. It will have to be left up to the OP as to what he wants/needs to do. If the surface is that bad with a metallic he can sand it smooth and reshoot color. If the surface is good, a light scuffing with ultrafine ScotchBrite will give the clear some tooth and then you can polish the clear for more depth. Mark

Be careful here. Clear coating is okay as long as there is a level surface to coat. IF there is any orange peel or dirt in the original paint clearing over THAT will not be good. wet sanding clear over a bad surface will do nothing to make it look better. If the surface is smooth with little to no dirt nubs I have found wet sanding with ScotchBrite pads (the grey ultrafine one) will work better then using sandpaper. use the same warm water and dish soap mix. Mark

Check out Pro-Touring.com http://www.pro-touring.com/search.php?searchid=2806267&pp=&page=2 Tons of builds and info and a lot of aftermarket PT suppliers. I can 3D model and print any wheel design you want if you are interested in having some custom ones made. Mark

Hey Jay, I have to ask if the foil is just for chrome trim or are you using it as a base "color" under translucent paint? Mark

Nice job! I was doing a master of this car when the AM kit came out... I think it is still at R&R's shop... Mark

I've been using it for a long time as a base under candy paint. It sprays just like lacquer and really makes the translucent paints pop. Silver and Sunset orange nail polish in the pics. The mocked up Camaro is sprayed in silver nail polish and has been handled quite a bit with no issues. Mark

No problem. Use GOOD 3M Fine Line masking tape to mask you separation lines. If you want to prevent bleeding under the tape (even with the good tape this can happen) shoot a light coat of clear over your tape lines prior to shooting color. The clear will seal the tape and, if there is any bleed, it's clear and will not be seen. Mark

Spray the white over the entire car as a base coat. Layout the magenta/orange, masking only the top of the car. This means spraying the entire side of the car in that color. Now mask off the magenta/orange pattern and spray the black/blue. look into nail polish as your "paint". It's cheap, is lacquer based and the colors are endless... Mark

Attach them to the frame. On a model it doesn't really matter but in real life anything attached to the axles will take a beating. Brackets will break and fenders will vibrate. Not something you want in a 1:1 so keep it real on a scale one. Mark