kymdlr

Minus a few minor things, this one is done. Here are a couple shots of the final product.

The chrysler color code for the shade of blue in the 1:1

Thanks gents.RR, I wouldn't dare put some wild wheels on a classic muscle car. Quick update: working on some wiring / plumbing that will mostly be hidden by the air cleaner anyway.

This is cool, even more so the fact that it was made with all the custom stuff in the 1970's before all this aftermarket stuff we have available now was even around and the fact that you were 12!. I started building around that age in the 90's and my early builds were no where near as good lookin.

This Kit started as the disaster of this thread- http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/108704-new-to-airbrushing-what-went-wrong/ Stripped all the terrible paint and had the idea to give it a Star Wars theme.

All of the paint is finished & has been polished out. Added the chrome trim and panel washes today. Still in need of some replacement AAR stripe decals.

Got a few things taken care of. cut out the plastic that should have been a gap below the front bumper. Also will be using wide tires in the rear like the 1:1 so I made the wheels a bit deeper. Added plug wires to the motor and got rid of the one piece plastic pulley and fan belt. made a bracket for the alternator which I will be making a scratchbuilt belt for.

Originally built this kit some years back with some moderate experience. I decided it was time to strip it and start over instead of buying a new kit. First pic is the inspiration for the build, then the before pics, followed by where im at currently after I stripped the paint and re-painted. Still have a lot of things to do including polishing the body, applying decals & foil etc.

I need some advice on how to fix this. I airbrushed Tamiya white from a jar that I thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner. I left it to dry for two days, and then used Tamiya and 3M tapes to mask it off. Ive never had a problem with Tamiya jar paints taking any longer than a few hours to dry. Well after taking the tape off, i noticed the tape either A) stripped the paint or B ) left tape residue behind. How can I correct this without having to respray?

sharp build.

New hampshire car looks really good. Is that a panek lightbar?

I love that CHP impala Sarge. Heres my latest, slightly altered from the 1:1 version: http://cvetrucks.50webs.com/ky515.jpg

Thanks for all the replies. I think whats bothering me is that I sprayed the same mixture on a few other parts and tested on the spoon (as i usually do with the rattle cans too) And the polish paint turned out smooth and fine. I found some killer colors in the nail polish isle the other day that I haven't seen in rattle cans so I HAD to try them out.

Im pretty sure its a lacquer polish. And im leaning toward me be impatient and not waiting enough time in between coats. What pressure do you guys reccommend for spraying.

Im brand new to airbrushing, so did a little reading about it before I started spraying. This was done with nail polish, thinned with lacquer thinner. I used what i believe was a decent amount of thinner (read that the paint should be the consistency of milk before spraying). The base layer was duplicolor primer from a rattle can, followed by the nail polish sprayed at about 20-22psi. Not sure what caused the paint to react like this. I probably put on too much paint too soon. With rattle cans I always do a couple mist coats, followed by the heavy coats. with the airbrush I didn't feel like the color coats were covering too well so I pretty much only layed wet coats and didn't stop spraying until I felt there was a decent layer of paint coverage. Is there anyway to save this or should I just strip it all and start over? Any input is appreciated.

Still counts. looks good so far. What is the Toy that the body came from? Was it an RC car or what?

How the hood started vs. The final product

This build was inspired by the car in the link. Mr. Norm's has a package that add's unique accessories to factory Dodge Challenger's to made a Cuda including Supercharging the motor. http://goldenstateperformance.com/mrnormbillboardgsscuda.html With October being Breast Cancer Awareness month I decided to paint her in Testor's Electric Pink (And add the breast cancer tag). Masked off the billboard pattern and painted it gunmetal. I Grafted the front grill of a Revell 71 Cuda to the challenger front fascia & also used its window louvers and spoiler. The supercharger is scratch built including the air intake & throttle body based off reference pictures of the 1:1. The hood and rear fascia top off the body mod's . Interior features some carbon fiber on the dash & console & pistol grip shifter.

Thanks for this. Good reference material.

This is her first build? Like EVER? whoa

So "ghosting" is my problem. I will try to fill with superglue then sand and see what happens. Bill, The bondo putty you pictured is the same that I used on this hood. Normally I use Dupli-color high build gray primer following body mods like this and its usually successful. This time I used a normal duplicolor gray which the results you see.... For future reference If I use a "primer sealer" would it prevent ghosting?

Need some advice on how to over come this snag. Essentailly I grafted one hood onto another and used filler strips of plastic to fill the gaps. Sanded it smooth then covered it in automotive polyester finishing putty. Sanded that down then added two coats of bondo glazing & spot putty. After sanding the bondo, I sprayed a few coats of primer hoping that i would have a smooth finish and no problems. As you can see, even after a couple coats of primer, you can see the lines through it. What do I need to do?

Been seeing a couple mopar's online in this color and I like it. Anyone know of a rattle can color that would come out close enough to the Tawny?

a couple more.