LDO

I’m looking for colors not available in Tamiya cans. What brand and source should I look for? Thanks. Lee

Tamiya and Eduard are both great kits. I have built a couple of Tamiya F-51Ds (Korean War box). They go together with minimal fuss. Tamiya make a 1/32 P-51D, but it is pretty expensive. Tamiya also make a 1/48 P-51B. There no good 1/32 P-51B kits. All have issues. The Revell kit goes all the way back to 1969. The F-51D represents the change from Army Air Force to an independent branch. It also has an “uncuffed” propellor. Most D models had cuffs or sleeves at the base of each blade. The uncuffed prop would be the one to use for most P-51 racing planes. Draw Decals sell decals for several racing planes. On the Eduard boxes, some say Profi Pack and others say Weekend Edition. The Profi Pack kits have photoetched parts, including an instrument panel that is painted. It’s jewel-like. Revell of Germany makes a 2017 new-tool 1/32 P-51D. Two versions; early and late. The early version does not have a fillet for the vertical stabilizer. The late model does. Some were modified in the field to get the fillet. It aided in stability. The Revell kit is a lot less expensive than the Tamiya kit. A little less detail, but IMHO, a lot of bang for the buck. If you are modeling a specific airframe, check your reference info. Most P-51s had wing panel lines filled in and painted a silver color. It had a new type airfoil; the “laminar flow” wing. Of course it still has access to the gun bays and fuel fillers. If you want pics of the Eduard Profi Pack kit (unassembled) let me know. I can take pics later tonight…I think I have a Profi-Pack, anyway.

Wow! So many cool planes. I must go there one day. Thanks for the photos!

Wow. Thanks.

So I was listening to Never Gonna Let You Go on YouTube and wondered what car Sergio Mendes was sitting in. The thread title has my best guess. Does anyone here know? Also- they really knocked it out of the park with that song. Such a great duet about second chances.

That’s all the information I need. Thank you.

It helps. I may need to do some serious head scratching to get the info I need from it. I considered getting the Meng kit off eBay for measurements…until I saw the prices. Yikes. Worst case scenario; carry a tape measure and get some info in a parking lot or used car lot. I even have a tiny tape measure on my keychain. I saw it in a plumbing supply store. It’s the cutest little thing ?

I can’t see the picture

(And others from that generation) How wide is the back door of a Crew Cab ‘06 F-350. Front or door to back. Thank you. Lee

We may be talking about different cars (or not, I’m no guru). I don’t have a rally car kit. I have Tamiya’s 1/10 scale injection molded RC rally car body. Pretty ambitious, I guess. It was a good price and an impulse buy. Here it is getting unneeded holes filled with sprue from smaller parts of the same car. I did that because it’s ABS instead of styrene.

Who sells that?

It’s a really cool car, but AFAIK, there are only models of the rally car. Thanks. Lee

Cool planes, too. I gotta get the 1/48 Mirage IV P. If you’re not familiar with it, it was larger than the other Mirage fighters. It had twin engines and was meant to be a nuclear fast strike bomber. The 1/72 Lockheed Constellation airliner is cool, too. I think they offered it as the US Navy sub hunter in the past.

I opened this expecting a J47 powered aircraft tug.

Texas 3D customs is making one in whatever scale you need. Choose between stack injection and roots blower. I have several of his engines and transmissions in 1/8 scale and I have no reservations saying they are as good as any injection molded parts made.

I’ll be placing an order for the injected C6 in a few days.

I’ll pick some up. Thank you.

What do you mean by it doesn’t work the same? Does it have the same strong plastic weld bond?

I think I would have better luck laminating around the outside diameter of a piece of PVC (I’m a plumber, so I can get small scraps of pipe for free). This latest effort was done inside a pipe, but that is a lot of moving plastic around while solvent glue evaporates. Outside a pipe is much easier and faster. My part needs to be right at 3.00” OD. The ID of 3” PVC is just right. I’ll check the OD of 2.5” pipe. I’ll try to post some pics tonight.

I hadn’t thought about epoxy, but I would prefer to use a solvent glue.

I’m trying to make a cylinder by laminating sheet styrene. I need a cement that I can brush on, while giving time to position the next layer of styrene. My first effort (using MEK) has sink marks from too much solvent in a small spot. Can someone make a good recommendation? Pics are a previous effort that worked better, but still has a sink mark. This was wrapped around a PVC pipe coupling that I had sanded and filed smooth. After each layer of plastic, I put a smooth hose clamp around it. My most recent effort was laminated inside a piece of PVC pipe, with a test ball after each layer. A test ball is like a heavy duty cylindrical balloon that can be inflated to block a pipe for testing during construction. (I’m a plumber)

Lee Owens Sergeant US Army M1A1 tank crew member Overseas assignment: Vilseck (Rose Barracks) Germany 1996-2000. Texas National Guard 2000-2008. Lots of good times. I got to see Europe. Fascinating job/never fired a shot in anger. Very proud to have done my small part. I learned a lot. Not just how to operate a tank. I think the last time I said “I don’t know” was 1996. A Major wanted to know if officer so and so was in that big tent. I said I don’t know. He told me that the proper reply is “I can find out, sir”. Treat people with respect. It goes a long way. I get sent to deal with “difficult” customers. I talk to them the same way I talked to officers. It gets good results 99% of the time.

Because I would love to have one. Or several. Thank you. Lee

Ford 6L80E

GM Powerglide