Cool Hand

Yep, agree those wheels will work and look great. Thats whats most enjoyable about Japanese curbsides, quick simple builds that are great for maintaining skills and having a break between the full detail builds. Another following.

Again after some fussing, worked out some stub axles. And using same technique as shown before. Spot glue with 401/super glue, some 1.5mm styrene plate. Spot glue the paper onto the styrene. Cut and shaped using tools previously shown and drilled. Separate. Cut some small squares of 1mm. Flipped over the mitre box and used the corner to set up the pieces. Component turned around to set up other end. Set the components up on each end, that way they will be opposite to each other. Using a small cap screw and a pin vice as a handle to hold whilst shaping the ends. Quick test fit. Upper A arms made same way as the lowers. Rough design. Test fitting, upper A arm mount not finalized yet. Just spot glued for now. Quick test fit of the wheels, adjustments will be made later. And sussing out how its looking and thinking about things ahead.

Thanks Bruce, always enjoy seeing other members share the build process in detail, just trying to give back and do the same as it can be helpful to see how things are done. Thank you Greg. Its a challenging project but breaking it down into sections and tackle them one at a time makes it less over whelming. Depends on the joint, all the chassis frame joints are super glue and it is applied like it would be welded on a 1:1. Other joints that require positioning to get aligned etc, plastic cement is used to allow to time for movement. Then once finalized apply super glue over that to lock it in place and that helps provide a bit more strength to the joint. The glues used are.

Transplant the Viper engine in the Cuda.

Thanks again for the replies. Appreciate the info Spence. My favourite pic I have of the build.

Started on the front end. Made a cross member out of 2mm x 4mm and filed some grooves to provide a seat for some 2.4mm tube. Also used some 2mm x 2mm square solid for engine mounts. Attached the 2.4mm which A arms will locate to and also cut short pieces for arm ends. After fussing for awhile, settled on way to make some A arms. Using the design on the paper, a piece of acrylic sheet and some sticky tape. Made up a quick jig to build the A arms. 2mm acrylic. Cut out the design, covered it with sticky tape and stuck it down on the acrylic piece. Drill some holes for pin location. Position 2.4mm tube over the pins. Cut and bend some 1.6mm rod. Cut out section of the tape and paper. Using super glue attach a spacer(2.4mm tube) between the rods and using a pin/1mm alumninum locate and fit up arm ends. Glue the three joins, allow to set up then remove. Fit up to cross member location. Forgive the roughness, as the topic title implies it is a Back Yard Special. Stub axles and top arms next update.

Thank you Jason, hopefully the concept will evolve and be come be a reality. Thanks Ismo, just experimenting to try and see a cool result of an idea. Try to think and plan ahead, but always something comes up requiring a re-think.

I understand the vision and like the idea. In Australia a lot of our burn out cars dont have bonnets/hoods due to the super charger and the scoops. So jokingly, id suggest putting a funny car super charger and scoop on your engine and say you are building a car to compete in the Aussie burnout competitions. Just trying help out with a reason to not put a hood on. LOL!

Cant say ive seen a built up of this year Buick, interested to see the supercharger poking out of the engine bay.

Like the source for the idea, I will follow along and look forward to the build. Have been Spiderbait fan for many years.

Just trying out an idea, think I can make these over fenders work. They from the Aoshima Rasty S13 Silvia kit #50989

Thanks JC, going to be challenging but im trying. Thanks mate, hope to keep the progress on going and not get burnt out. LOL! LOL! I dont know jack about drift cars, but like to think I can glue some styrene together and make something. Hello Martin. Just trying to share some techniques learned along the way from many people I have observed and learnt from in the hobby and real world. Yeah I have attempted a few scratch built chassis, only one build ever made it through to completion though. Thats what I like the most about the hobby, sharing the builds and inspiring each other. The days of the old Lay It Low model car forum is where I seen many builders who inspired me and I learnt alot of scratch building techniques from the mini truck builders. Hope to keep pushing forward and turn the dream/idea into reality. Could be a cool looking set up, if I can make it happen.

Need to remove the engine bay so the body will fit over the chassis. Also shave the door handle and remove pillar, prefer the hard top look. Set the frame on some taped down 6mm x 4mm rectanlge tube, this sets the ride height. Placed the body over the chassis. Wheel mock. The kit has two engines, but only has all the parts for the 302. ] Prefer the big block , so Il use a resin TPB engine it is exact the same block Thats where im currently at, more progress soon.

Cut out the shape press down hard so the blade scribes the plastic. Peel the paper of, and shade some pencil into the scribed line. Can be tricky to cut this section, so start of drilling some holes to create an opening for next procedure. Cut the hole bigger. Various things used to cut and shape Also used the poor mans milling machine. Carefully slide the vice around to remove material. Once fully cut out, finish shaping with a file and sanding sticks. Then separate and do a final sand. Much better to do these sections one piece as it stronger with no joins. Get all pieces cut and cleaned up and start to tape them down on the layout. Tape every piece down to lock it in place. Using super glue spot tack all the joints, used plastic cement on the upper pieces that were not taped this allows time to get positioning correct.Then lock in place with super glue Once glue has set up, remove from layout. Some glue will seep down through joins bonding the chassis to the laminate. Carefully pry up with chisel blade. Thats the basics done, but lots more to do.

Have been down this road before and have a technique I like to use. Its old school but works. All starts with a layout drawing. Then laminate. Found a good flat surface for a work board and stick it down with spray adhesive. Tape the boarder to stop things catching the edge. Also print out a couple duplicates. To cut up and use for templates. Select materials and cut up using a mitre box and saw. I used 4mm x 2mm rectangle solid 2.5mm square solid 2mm square solid 2mm plate styrene Cut out front and back chassis sections to use for templates. And cut 2 pieces of 2mm plate same size as cut outs from paper. Spot tack the plates together and stick the paper cut out on top.

Not one to post this type of wip on here, as its not up to standard. But thought some might enjoy the process of the build. And maybe the end result. So we will get it straight from the start, I dont know jack about drift cars this is just me dreaming and building something for a community build on another site. I dont care about scale accuracy, this is me building what I want from my imagination and creativity. Il source ideas from all over the interweb and put my own spin on it and put it into the builds. The inspiration The kit. Wheels. And going to need a way to get it to the track. Ok, lets see how this goes. As always start of with a box stock mock, to see where things are at. Stock roller, looks like a 4x4. Needs to be lowered alot. Super charger is just for jokes. Stock chassis, aint going to cut it so it will be replace with a scratch built. So the fun begins.

Thanks again for the replies and sharing all the memories you guys have. Cheers for the info Brian. 1st Released November 2017, there are 3 different versions SB-1 and SC-1. Also there is a race car version (Team Yamato) which is on my wish list

Very impressive line up Roger, always enjoy seeing your builds. You have a unique way of capturing the street machine style.

Check out this link to a Youtube channel, battle damage and weathering Lots of techniques you mind find helpful.

Appreciate the additional comments thanks. All good Kurt. Thank you very much for sharing some of your story with a Civic, and il be sure to save some of your pics and add them to my build folder. Glad I sparked your interest and hope it will get you going with your build, which I look forward to seeing. Hope you will do a wip thread, So we can follow along while you build. I have another kit which my plan is to tune it up as I might or could have done and im sure I could get some ideas from you.

Yeah I remember watching the cartoon as a kid, interested to see how you go about building of model of it. So cool.

Thanks for the replies, so cool to hear many of you are familiar with this year of the Civic. Great little car. Sorry, I cant answer that as I dont know. Thats the reason for sharing builds, inspire and motivate others. Its an excellent kit.

Like the look of this build so far Roger. Makes me think if it had a supercharger poking through the bonnet/hood, it would be similar to an old aussie burnout car driven by a guy called Gary Myers.

This company produces 3D printed skulls and a skeleton at 1/24 scale, bit pricey but the quality and detail is amazing. I bought them from a web-store here in Australia and they have some in stock. https://www.bnamodelworld.com/model-figures-miscellaneous-maim-maim24054 Comparison to Rommels Rod skull This skeleton is mind blowing cant believe how fine the detail is, I already have broke a thumb of as it is very fragile.

This is a special build, this make of car was the first I owned and learnt to drive in. Was so happy when I seen Hasegawa release the kit and even happier when I started to build it, bought back so many fun memories of the journeys and good times I had in that car. Paint is Tamiya TS-47 chrome yellow. The yellow squares with letter L in the front and rear windows are what we call L plates, meaning Learner driver and must be displayed by law for the first six months after obtaining the Learners permit/license and must be accompanied at all times with a passenger who has a full license. Interior paint is TS-6 matt black and XF-flat black for the floor Unfortunately thats all I have is memories, as I didnt take any photos and cant remember every detail about the car. Thats why there is no number plate and havent figured out what side mirrors to use.