TurboKitty

if you watch the Fox5 video, the police officer drove right through the closed off area (where other police cars and officers were present to make sure spectators & other people were kept out). He almost got hit by the Optimus Prime big rig, driving right in front of it. What if he had been hit by that instead of the Camaro? Police officers are trained to drive smart, but that was a dumb move. Bomb squad or not, that particular road was closed off legally. It doesn't matter that he was on a different channel than the police officers on the scene, the entire department should have known that those streets were to be closed for filming. If anything, why didn't the officers who were keeping the perimeter clear know that a bomb squad unit was heading that way? Communication is key. The stunt man driving the Camaro did not expect a Police SUV to pop up in front of him, he was not at fault. The lack of communication by the local PD is what was at fault if you really think about it. He used a road that he shouldn't have used, potentially putting innocent people at risk by speeding down the road (and almost getting t-boned by a big rig in the process before cutting off the Camaro). To go a little off topic here, Michael Bay's safety when it comes to this movie is pretty crappy, to say the least. Not too long ago during another stunt, a young woman had a cable tear her car in half with her in it, flipping the car end over end, and slicing open her skull. She was an extra that was paid $25 to use her own car in a scene that was being filmed driving down a highway. Before that happened, the same rigging that was used in that stunt had been tested prior to filming, and it failed then too. WHY does this idiot allow failed equipment to be used? The girl had her friggin' head sliced wide open. Here is the video of that, she was driving the 2nd car that was flipping around: http://jalopnik.com/5631977/video-shows-transformers-3-skull+slicing-accident There have been other accidents during the movie shoot too, but anyway, this one is clearly the fault of the Police SUV, bomb or no bomb, he should not have been on a road that was closed down without other police knowing about it so that the filming could be stopped for that moment. *Lack of communication*.

Jalopnik.com article: "Several streets around downtown D.C. were closed off for filming; why the D.C. police SUV with sirens blaring decided to use the closed street isn't clear. The video from local TV station Fox5 shows crew members covering Bumblebee up after the accident. Another spectator near the scene showed how the filming began, with the Optimus Prime semi leading a number of vehicles down the street at high speed before Bumblebee was set to join them. It's not clear who is at fault, but it's yet another example of an accident on one of Michael Bay's action-charged sets." Here is the Fox5 TV Station video: http://www.myfoxdc.com/dpp/entertainment/dc-police-suv-hits-bumblebee-at-transformer-3-filming-in-dc-101110?ref=nf and here is the private video from youtube showing the accident from a distance. Note that the ambulance is not part of the movie: ********************************************************** You'd think that a the Police Officer, a 25 year veteran senior explosive ordinance technician, would know that the street was closed down legally, and that there would be stuff going on for the movie that includes cars driving around and stunts being shot. It takes legal permits to shut down roads for filming. Kind of ironic lol. At least nobody was seriously hurt, and they usually have more than one car built for movies in case of an accident. They will more than likely rebuild the Camaro as another backup car while one of the backup cars takes over.

I've had hit or miss luck with DOT3 brake fluid. It works good to get chrome off, and some paint like enamel. For lacquer, 91% isopropyl alcohol works good for me, or Easy Off oven cleaner in the yellow can. Did you sand a few spots down to the bare plastic so the DOT3 can get down under the paint layer? That may be the issue. If nothing else works, try Testors ELO (Easy Lift Off). I've been told it works very well for all kinds of paint, and it's available from the Testors website, $13 (I think) for the large can of it.

lol and drifters are usually RWD ...... let there be crank walk!

this will be interesting considering it's a FWD lol. I like the wide body kit addition though, this looks like it will be a pretty cool build

easy off seems to work pretty well for me to strip chrome, DOT3 brake fluid gets off the remaining bits within 10 minutes or so too.

couple quick questions about the NNL, I see it's $10 admission, is there any extra cost to enter a model car or anything like that? This will be my first time going, if I can swing it. I'd like to go to the toy show too, how much is it to get into that since it's separate admission? Basically, how does the NNL go? I've been told it's basically like a big meet & greet, and everyone has a good time, and it's not like an actual contest or anything. I don't know if I'm going to have any cars completed in time, is a WIP ok to bring or is that frowned upon?

Personally, I have sold parts before but I price my stuff reasonably, like for a quarter to a dollar. It's up to the bidders how much they want to pay. I sold a Mustang hood awhile back for $8 not including shipping, which was like a $1 something. I had it at a starting bid of 50 cents. It's all in what you sell, some people will buy stuff on the cheap just to have it, or they can use it for a build they're doing, etc. I'm getting ready to list a bunch of spare parts on ebay, since the same parts on emodelcars have sat there for weeks unsold. Now, $15 for a chassis is ridiculous, and whoever bought the hood from me for $8, well, they must have wanted it pretty darn bad!

no prob, let me know how it turns out! One thing though, once you get it, make sure to test spray it on some chrome plastic sprue to make sure it doesn't affect it at all. I've done the same thing to some tuner style wheels and they came out great

I just wanted to point out that the Black Chrome version of BMF is a solid black (used to detail the blacked out trim on modern cars). It's not a transparent black like black chrome is. Is this the look you're going for? (a nice, shiny dark chrome look that is not as bright as regular chrome) if that's the look you want, then you'll need to spray whatever chrome parts you have with Testors transparent black (window tint black), this: The Black Chrome from BMF is this, and it's not transparent: Just trying to help, since black chrome is not the same as solid black

anyone got pics of this one? I'd like to see if the body is correct for a '70 (tail panel, fenders, hood), also how much is it and what other parts are included? I really want to add an accurate '70 to my collection

just wanted to say that I ordered some resin turbos and they are my first resin items that I've ever bought, I love them! He also sent me some extra goodies and the details look great, very, very minimal clean up involved! I will definitely be buying more sometime! Thanks again Mike!

my boyfriend and I were just talking about something like this after watching an old episode of Dirty Jobs (the one where they cut a tree down & the guy climbed 100ft up a tree and he got attacked by bees). Anyway that would be a horrible way to go

Went down to Ohio and made two separate stops. Stop #1 netted me these: All the kits on the left column are still sealed, the '70 Boss and '70 Trans Am in the right column are sealed inside, the '68 Shelby GT500 might be sealed inside too, didn't check it yet. The other ones are started or partially built. Anyone know anything about the small '69 Torino and '69 Mustang? This Mustang is painted silver, but it's molded in a seafoam green plastic just like the Torino is. They look old, and I didn't find a maker on the chassis. Stop #2 resulted in these: Got these built ups from a really sweet old man, he was telling me how be built them all over last winter as his arm was healing from an injury. They are all brush painted and look to be pretty complete. I might go ahead and strip the paint from some of them and rebuild them. Not a bad day if I do say so myself!

I have used the "Ice" paint before. It comes with a black base coat, and the "Ice" coat is clear with rainbow specks in it. It is somewhat like Spectraflare paint, and can be painted over colors to give them a rainbow clear metalflake look. It is pretty neat, over silver it looks like this: but over the black it comes with, it looks like this: I painted a Nitrous Express bottle with it, and it was super easy to use. Plus you don't have to worry about color matching lol. Adding it over colors makes them look similar to Chrome Illusion (or Chromealusion) paint too.

there's no real conversion kit that I know of, since there are a # of slight differences on a '70 Charger, compared to a '69. The hood is different, the front fenders are slightly different, the taillights are connected with a continuous chrome trim that runs the outer perimeter of the taillights, the taillight panel isn't blacked out entirely (just within the chrome), and the front bumper/grille has no center divider. Also of course the grille and bumper are mounted on the leading edge of the fenders, instead of being recessed like on a '68 or '69. I was looking for a cheaper alternative to an MPC '70 Charger, since they easily sell for $150 or so. Modelhaus has a resin kit that is based off of the MPC '70 Charger, I think it's about $65. There was another resin kit that, if I remember correctly, was about $40 or $45, I don't remember who made it though. I'm sure someone here knows which one I'm referring to. If you wanted to try converting one yourself, get the Revell '69 Charger R/T, and the Revell '69 Charger Daytona kits to start out with. The '69 Charger Daytona actually has the hood and front fenders from a 1970 Charger. You could get a replacement front bumper and grille insert from the Modelhaus, as well as '70 Charger R/T door scoops. The interior of a '70 has different seats and door panels, as well. Those are available from Modelhaus too. I don't think I'm forgetting anything, but with a nice clean cut, a conversion is possible. If you do end up doing a conversion, maybe you could go full detail and open the doors and trunk too. Lastly, if you're thinking about using the grille from the AMT Fast & Furious '70 Charger kit, don't, that kit is incorrect lol. '70 Charger rear (chrome around taillights): '70 Charger front fender (sidemarker is shaped different, and located differently): '70 Charger grille/bumper assembly detail: '70 Charger Interior: '70 Charger R/T door scoops (they actually just cover the twin vents on the door): hope this helps!

just got home from WalMart, in the paint isle there is a generic gloss light beige that looked like a dead on match for this color. It's a regular size spray rattle can, right where all the Krylon and Rustoleum stuff is. Might be of some help, IDK

exactly what I wanted to say, lol. I've had it in my hands several times but the price was a big put off for me. Now that I know what's in the box, I'll get myself a Tamiya '66 Beetle. The only thing I really like about this kit are the aftermarket wheels. I can picture them on a few things, might see if I can find some

hey cruz, the '69 Dart GTS on the box is Chrysler Paint Code L1 Beige (a gloss, not a metallic color). Maybe you could get a local body shop to custom mix the color for you using either the PPG paint code (22542) or the Dupont Codes (4998D,4998L). That would be the most accurate way to go if you can't find a close enough match with Tamiya colors

BMF is Bare Metal Foil, it's an adhesive backed thin foil sheet that can be carefully cut and applied to a model car's trim to simulate chrome trim, basically. It is available in different varieties, such as: Chrome, Ultra Brite Chrome, Black Chrome (for modern cars with black trim instead of chrome), Gold, Matte Aluminum, and Copper. Some sheets are harder to work with than others (Black Chrome can be a bit tricky for instance), and with a little time and patience, you can add a nice level of detail to any model car, even diecast cars. Basically, it is easier to cut a piece that is slightly oversized compared to the part you want to cover. Carefully peel the foil from the backing paper (make sure your hands are clean of any grease, you can use a clean, sharp Xacto blade to help lift the foil off the paper), and carefully lay it on the part you want to cover. You can use a Q-tip to carefully smooth out any wrinkles in the foil, and to help it stick to contours. You can apply it to bare plastic or a clean, painted surface (some people apply it before they clear coat a model to keep it from peeling up over the years). Once you have it applied, take a sharp, clean Xacto blade and slowly & carefully trim off the excess (make sure to keep the blade at slight angle so it doesn't cut too deep, you don't really need to apply too much pressure since the foil is so thin). If you mess up a little, don't worry, you can peel off the foil easily and try again. If there is a little bit of adhesive residue left on the paint, it can easily be cleaned off with just a little bit of Windex, or some Dawn dish soap in warm water on a clean rag (don't rub too hard). After you have the foil applied, make sure to clean and polish the model to remove any fingerprints, and then upload a pic to show us your completed model Also, here is the BMF website, it can provide some more helpful tips too of course lol: Bare-Metal Foil

very nice, it reminds me of the "Hammer" '70 Plymouth Roadrunner show car:

I know how, but whenever I use photobucket to resize pictures in photo editor, it always seems to distort them. It's pretty finicky I guess, plus I like cropping the excess out to save space so I can load more pictures. It's all about megapixel size too, a lot of people think that the more MP in a camera, the sharper the picture. Well, this is sort of true. All it really means is more tiny little dots are used to make up the picture, and in return the file size is pretty large as a result. You can go down to 3-5 megapixels and still get a nice clear picture, and the file size won't be nearly as big.

personally, I use Paint to reduce the size of pictures. First I'll open a file, then go to the "Image" tab on top, scroll down to "Stretch/Skew", and in the Horizontal and Vertical figures, I'll type a percentage number that I want to reduce it by (Figure that it starts at 100%). Say, you want it just a little smaller, put in 90 for both horizontal and vertical (the same # keeps the dimensions of the photo intact). If you want it even smaller (by a larger margin, for example), go back into Stretch/Skew and type in maybe 60/60 or even 50'50 (horizontal/vertical). If it's too small, click on Edit, then Undo, and go back and type in a slightly larger margin (it can even be odd numbers, like 73/73, just as long as both numbers are the same). If there is excess stuff that takes up space around the stuff you want to show, crop the picture, and once you're done, save it without changing the file name so it rewrites the old file, therefore keeping wasted file space to a minumum (so you don't have a large file, and then a reduced size smaller picture of the same thing). Hope this helps, I know it sounds like a lot of steps but it takes all of maybe 30 seconds per picture once you get the hang of it, lol.

very cool! I can't wait to see the Spitfire either

not sure if anyone else mentioned it, but here in Lower Michigan there is one that I know of, it's right on the outskirts of Brooklyn on M-50 (coming from Napoleon). I think it just opened up recently too, it's a little building before you get to Brooklyn Ford (or after it if you're leaving town). Brooklyn is where Michigan International Speedway is, so if there was any races left this season (here in MI that is), you could kill several birds with one stone! Lots of flea markets and antique stores around here too