Greg Wann

I would love to teach you my friend, getting together is the problem. I used to somewhat portable with my casting stuff but not anymore. They do offer some casting classes at Tech Shop but joining is not cheap.

Atta Boy, Chip! With the knowledge you will gain there you may very well become much better at casting than I am. I won't be signing up though. I need the seat left open for someone else. I might actually be in Indiana then. One of my renters is moving and I will need to run people through the rental for showing. I will be in Art Andersons neck of the woods and close to my favorite PIZZA KING PIZZA shop in good old Otterbein. Will and Kathy make the best pizza, they really pile on the toppings! Otterbein is also where Murf Mckinney racing used to be, they build funny cars. Now they are on Fast Line Drive near the SIA plant in Lafayette. http://www.mckinneycorp.com/ Congrats to all who are going. Once you have this ability you will be able to make money making molds for the small time inventor that needs some prototype work done. If you are an inventor you should look for a TECH SHOP near you or find a inventors association in your state. http://www.techshop.ws/ There also might be a Gangplank near you. http://gangplankhq.com/ http://www.rchobbiesplus1.com/ If you live near or traveling near Lafayette, Indiana, stop by RC HOBBIES PLUS. They have a nice selection of model car kits. Don't tell anybody, but this is where Art A. hangs out.

http://www.reynoldsam.com/seminars/basics-mold-making-casting-31/ If you are in the Phoenix area. Here is a link to a flier for a all day seminar. Price is only $75.00. That is a really good deal too! Check their schedules. There are seminars going on around the country. There might be one near you. Hurry and sign up if you are interested.

A 67 is the easiest for me to spot since it was the only year of first generation Camaro to have the vent windows.

I have a ESCI Ertl 63 Corvette convertible kit in my stash.

I have been casting for awhile now. I am able to go to the Reynolds Advanced Material store in Tempe, AZ. I can talk to Aaron or Niki face to face and ask questions and take in molds for them to look at and look at the molds they are making. They say I am doing a pretty good job except they think my molds are way to big for some of the parts that I make. I use the Moldstar 30 silicone and the Task 8 resin. Even with all I know and do, not every part is a nice part that is worth selling. I either add it to a kit for paint sampling or give it a toss. I have seen plenty of resin kits that fellow model club members have paid good money for and it is something that I would put in the big O or give to someone to work like a dog to make something good out of it. I gave up thinking I was going to be some great detail model builder but found a reasonable talent in casting. A couple of guys in the club started calling me the master caster. I was actually pretty embarrassed by it in general and a lot at the DSC shows, I'm mostly OK with it now. There is a guy in mesa that is a promo model builder, Bob Peoples introduced me to him. The first time he saw some of my parts he claimed they were Modelhaus quality. I don't really want to claim to be the greatest caster, but I am not the worst. All I need to do is read peoples comments on the forums. I am horribly disorganized and fly by the seat of my pants.

Hi David, You will not need a mold release until you are ready to pour the inner core if you intend to create a two part mold. I would not use a powder for a mold nor would I use some homemade witches brew either. Get a good spray type mold release. A spray type release will help lubricate and act as a thermal barrier against the delicate detail of your mold. I was using a Price Driscoll product. I either got a bad batch or the formula has been changed and has been a problem for me. I also switched the silicone I was using and casting has just been a real mess for me lately. I'm in way too deep to give up now, so I'm slowly working through the problems. I bought a can of MANN 200 ease release my resin guy suggested. A new mold will come apart very easily now but I am finding that the first couple of copies seem to be sucking up the release making copies that do not fully cure. It would be nice if the cans of release had a shaker ball in them. I did purchase a really nice item that is very overbuilt to shake spray cans. It fits on a sawzall. You strap the can in and pull the trigger and it will shake it really hard. The guy that invented it was pretty smart. You can get a sawzall type cutter from Harbor freight pretty cheap I would imagine. Here is a link to the shaker and a sawzall. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MIXKWIK-Aerosol-Paint-Can-Foam-Insulation-Mixer-Shaker-/310206425972?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4839be6b74 http://www.harborfreight.com/6-amp-reciprocating-saw-with-rotating-handle-65570.html

A pretty red 70 to 72 Buick GS convertible with the top down. AAAAAHHHHH My first love with four wheels!

I like this. I have my artist buddy John Farrow drawing up my so called "got rich project" rendering. A 70 to 72 Buick GS/GSX roadster / salt flat car. I call the project INVADER. A mid engine, two seat concept might be cool. An area behind the seats would flip open to service the engine. maybe the hood scoops could be stylishly placed there. Maybe all wheel drive? Maybe a supercharged 455. Maybe a removable hardtop. Sorry, I could not help myself for this post.

Fastest production car in 1987. I would definitely use the Turbo engine. It will most certainly light your fire.

My 72 Buick GS 455. My older brother ordered it and I bought it from him in 1976. I sold it to a friends dad who kept it about 26 years, the youngest son Bruce drove it. The last known owner is Robert Helms somewhere around Indianapolis.

Are those round things clear wheels? I'm trying out some SMOOTH - ON 325 clear resin. It is not fun so far.

NICE!

It is a real beauty for certain.

I get emails from Griots Garage for their products since purchasing their plastic polish. I got an email from them looking for people with a background in designing packaging etc. They are located in Tacoma, Washington. If you have the credentials you might want to apply.

Hi Doc, I don't know if Mike will do a convertible. I have a fox for you.

That's a big bummer.

Mike and I are both really pleased that it is finally going well. WOW! Is a good reaction for me. A guy in Mesa says I should be charging Modelhaus prices but we want it affordable. Thank you, Greg

In 1:25 Scale? ABSOLUTELY! How about some A body station wagons?

That is some really awesome stuff. Do you do custom commission work? I need some help with a Buick GS/GSX project. Greg

Thanks Fred, two Fox and a Eleanor are waiting.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU VERY MUCH! Getting a good body mold has been a real butt kicker for me, but I finally have something worthy of a good customers money.

You can refrigerate your resin. This will give you a little more time to pick bubbles out. Try this simple exercise: Take a toothpick. Hold it steadily in your fingers comfortably. Place the tip in the area that will create the outer rim. move the tip in a circular motion around the perimiter of the rim. Practice this motion a bit. Then add some resin. This motion with the toothpick will help break up bubbles in this part of the wheel mold. Despite my casting at about 62 PSI in a two piece mold, air pockets can still exist. According to my local SMOOTH - ON rep, 60 PSI is the magic number to crush bubbles in resin and especially silicone molds. Stay away from tin silicone, it will shrink. I switched to Mold Star 30 recently also, this is a platinum silicone. The Mold Star15 was too mushy for my taste. I do not heat molds. The resin will reach a temp of about 140 degrees.

DR. Kerry, Paging Dr. Kerry. Your Fox kit is ready to send to you.

Art, I remember when I worked at Purdue there was a female professor that drove a checker. I was recently in your area. The RC Hobbies plus shop is a really nice store.