Greg Wann

Hey Raoul, If you could muster a master, I'd getter and caster. LOL Say that three times really fast!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-2e7-2ton-studebaker-truck-1-25-have-also19-56-ton-/331184337349?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item4d1c1ff1c5 Here is a link to a 55 Studebaker pickup. Pics don't look too bad

Sure wish I did. I would sell you a couple.

Sure wish I had the money and space for the Buick.

I do not understand the statement there is only one resin. There is resin that sets slow, there is resin that sets fast, there is resin that will take a lot of heat, there is resin that is fireproof. You should look at the specification sheets that are online with products that SMOOTH - ON and other companies sell. Back when I first got into casting there was a company that was selling a silicone that would eventually turn back into a liquid. I don't think I dreamed that.

That might be a car Howard Hughes used to own. It might be setting at the Metro Center Mall in one of the empty store fronts that has some cars on loan from around the country.

Finally a chance for a Bugatti Veyron.

Congrats, Brad, Very nice detail work.

George, I sent you a PM. I found out the silicone I was using shrinks some so I started using SMOOTH - ON Mold Star 30. It is a platinum silicone. It will not shrink. It mixes 1:1. It has a long library life. As I mentioned in my PM, BEWARE the words "DOES NOT NEED TO BE VACUUMED" or de aired. This might be true for molds that are say 3/4" deep. As soon as the silicone is mixed it will start curing. As those little bubbles you stirred in while mixing the two parts might not get to escape before the mixture gels up and cures. Getting an air bubble next to a part will really suck too. I have been down a long road for a learning curve. I want you to be successful. It will take time and patience. It is not all fun and games. I have a 90 Fox Mustang body that is just kicking my butt. I am working up the nerve to start the fourth body mold. I am just not able to make a body that is worthy of purchase. I am starting to get some recognition for my efforts and I am not going to blow it by getting bad press from simply being greedy. My name is on the line and Mike Schnurs name is too. Sorry for delays. Greg

Hey Charlie, Now you can open up a Cat house! LOL. Actually the built one is one I purchased to do the casting but bought a mint HT kit so I used it instead. I also have a nice mint convertible kit too. I was looking for another kit when I ran across that built up kit and decided it would be a great prize for you. I did buy a set of tail lights From the guy that comes to the DSC that has Modelhaus parts. ENJOY!, Greg

SMOOTH - ON TASK 8 It will withstand a lot of heat.

Charlie, I sure hope you are OK.

WOW! Worth every penny too, very nice.

Very cool, Chuck. Do you use a ALPS printer?

http://www.etsy.com/ http://www.smooth-on.com/ http://azinventors.org/ Resin casting can be fun but the "claying up" activity can be very boring work. I only make parts from two piece molds. Resin and silicone is a fascinating world not just limited to model car parts. You can sell your hand made work on the etsy link above. There are some model kits listed there too, go check them out. If you have a business like Reynolds Advanced Materials near you like I do they have product on the shelf and sample projects made to see. Take a look at the SMOOTH-ON site for cool ideas. If you have a wife or significant other that is artsy fartsy you might just create something cool the world will want and you might get rich. That's where I'm trying to go! Look online for a local inventors association too. There is one here in Arizona.

Hi Nikki, I sent you a PM. I am happy you found this hobby. Relax and enjoy life.

Take some photos of the work you are doing and look at them as your build progresses. You may very well see things in the photo that your eyes might miss with the project right in front of you. I heard it on the radio, so it must be true. Right?

I think the best thing to wrap glass in is wax paper and put it in a baggie.

Convertible body kits in the mail spell DISASTER! I have paid large sums for a perfect Ebay kit only to get it in the mail and have the windshield frame broken. It is a great idea to create a square out of light cardboard and tape it over the frame to keep it from getting broken. I bought a mint sealed MPC 69 SunDancer Trans Am kit to do in resin. Upon opening this sealed kit I found the body riddled with tire burns on the passenger side. I was not very happy. I opened most of the kits I had to see what kind of shape they were in. Most sellers on the bay do not realize that a windshield frame can become broken in the mail. Some sellers are completely greedy and have no care at all about how the kit is packed once they are paid.

I have some of those parts on my to do list but don't know when I will get to them.

You would be better off removing the parts from the sprue. When I prep a part for a mold I try as best I can to cut the sprue that would be a little ways from the part leaving some sprue still attached to the part. Then I start sanding ever so carefully towards the part. I don't care if it takes an hour or four days. If you break a part off the sprue the part can become sort of bruised or part of the edge of the part will become rough. I really try to prep good clean master parts. I am not any good at body work or painting. I only make two part molds. The mold on the left makes the shaker scoop for a 77/78 Pontiac Trans Am. I incorporate brass rod into the mold to help properly form parts. Brass or some other metal is best for this use. Wood or plastic rod will become infused into the part unless you grease it well, preferably silicone grease like faucet grease. The waffle thing to it's right is set on top of the closed mold after the mold is set in the pressure pot. Another mold is set on top of it for weight. (I don't do this for making bodies) This helps excess resin and air escape creating a more exact part. Setting a part on it's own little pyramid of clay is better than placing all the parts on a flat surface. Just take a carefull look at parts in photos and observe the thickness of the flash that is around a formed resin part and that the parts were formed on a flat surface. Also observe that sometimes on a model kit the thickness of some flash that exists on a part that needs to be cleaned. When I first started casting I set parts on the same level and hated the results. The mold on the right is of the letters I make to mark the molds as you can see, it helps identify molds. It did not help make them any easier to locate. I just don't have to pick a mold up and open it to find out what it makes. Now if I could only call them by name and have them come to my casting table without really exerting any effort to find one. Observe that the color of the silicone can be seen through the flash around the formed letter. This would make my Dad proud. He would say that it is thin enough to read the Lords Prayer through it! My Dad was a farmer and very religious. http://smcbofphx.proboards.com/thread/1101/resin-tips The above link will take you to a page of resin casting tips I created based on my own observations. Probably some of it won't make much sense. Most of what I do was made up. The only real help I got was from Jeff the Time Machine Resin guy.

http://www.engadget.com/2013/11/08/3d-systems-sense/ Here is a scanner video.

Has anyone seen something called SENSE? It is a hand held 3D scanner that will create a file. You could scan somebodies head and print it. You could have a small size of yourself in a StarTrek diorama. You scan something and then send it to a 3D scanner for printing. The thing is only $400.00. I told Chris Soback that if he had a 3D printer and scanner we could make cool trophies for our Desert Scale Classic model contest. I can imagine the trophy for best paint could be a hand holding a can of paint with the index finger pushing the button down. It would be a new and fresh idea for contest trophies. I am on a computer at work and it will not allow me to post a link here. I understand it is possible to make something that is clear and rubbery with a 3D printer. It would be even more cool if the above mentioned trophy could light up as well. Maybe some fiber optic at the nozzle would give it the look as if it were spraying paint. I am full of great ideas, I am full of talent, but mostly I am full of?

Yes

You are welcome. I am certainly going to take advantage of the one in my area. I have some plumbing tool inventions. I am hoping to become a millionaire somehow! I am hoping Tech Shop will be my ticket. I am tired of being an oppressed slave by stupid bosses. LOL