Harry P.

That is really cool! But man, I would love to see some matching wood on the trailer.

I really like the "leather" look on the seats. Nicely done!

I have no idea why you posted this under Tips, Tricks and Tutorials... but I moved it to where it's supposed to be.

Ok, since this a mild custom, I won't lecture you on the missing mirrors... That's a good looking model. I love the color scheme. Very nicely done.

Me likey!

That is so cool! Love the new, cleaner side pipes... a big improvement over what you had. Now dig around your parts box and find twin angled antennas for the rear fenders...

Beautiful work, and so cool to see them side by side. BTW... is there anything you can sand/trim/ etc. to get that hood to fit better on the new one?

You have an excellent eye for detail and a very clean building style. Love the engine, love the dash, love the interior... just love it all. Beautiful work.

Putting aside the engine for the moment... let's work on the steering box. Remember, I modified the front axle to allow for poseable wheels, so the steering box will also need to be modified in order for the Pitman arm to move. First step is to cut off the molded-in arm and using a razor saw and sharp X-acto, cutting a slot into the bottom of the steering box... Next, a new arm needs to be made of sheet styrene and drilled on both ends... Finally, I drilled a hole through the steering box and used a brass pin as a pivot for the Pitman arm. A drop of CA on the head of the brass pin holds it in place. Now all I need to do is paint the completed steering box steel and install on the frame rail.

I like it! Now add a black wash to the wheels/lug nuts and the grille and you'll improve the model a lot.

Holding my own.

Most people will never notice a 1mm warp in the first place.

But pretty sure it was never brown...

You make it sound easy, but that sort of work is probably beyond the skill level of most of us... especially polishing the cut edges of the plex and getting straight, sharp, clean silicone joints. Also making a decent looking wood base without some power woodworking tools is pretty tough to pull off. I think most people that try to do this will wind up very frustrated.

It's easy. A lot of people have very low standards.

Yes.

I'll see your Quiet Riot and raise you a Silver Bullet Band...

That's a beauty!

I use Aluminum Plate buffing metalizer all the time. I don't lay it on thick like Bill suggested, though... just a light-ish coat. I usually buff it out just minutes after spraying... has always worked for me.

Still adding engine details. But getting close to finished...I'd say I'm about 80% there at this point... The hardest part for me is working this small. Yes, the model is "large scale" (1/16), but some of those engine details are tiny. I scratchbuilt the wiring looms on the exhaust side of the engine, and the one just above the distributor... they aren't included in the kit. The ignition wires are painted heavy thread to simulate the cloth-covered ignition wires seen on cars of the era.

Yes, just paint detailed.

I like Tom's idea of just cleaning up the old models, reattaching the loose parts, and leaving them as is... a window into the past... and starting with new kits for your "revised" versions. But it looks like you've already begun the teardown, so have at it!

Exactly. Working on a model isn't physically strenuous (which I can't do)... and it keeps my mind occupied so that I don't sit around thinking about the "C word" all the time.

Slowly but surely adding more engine details...

Guys... sorry about the confusion and the stupid "I'm trapped in the Phillipines" nonsense. My email was hacked this morning (as if I don't already have enough problems to deal with). I have changed my email account PW, should be ok now. No, I am not now, nor have I ever been, in the Phillipines...