Ramfins59

Welcome to our plastic playground Jason. Great work on your "comeback".

Nice job James, but did you forget the headlight lenses and taillights?

The best stuff I've used is Tamiya Tape to mask off the edges at the chrome trim line, burnished down really well, and then use blue painters masking tape to overlap that and the rest of the body. You will probably have to wash off some residue from the tape after the paint dries and the tape is removed. I've used WD40 scrubbed with a foam pad, and then rewash the whole thing with Dawn to completely remove any WD40. Then let the whole thing air dry for a day. Then you can clearcoat it and then apply your BMF.

Yes, over the years I have accumulated quite a "hoard" of aftermarket parts and accessories. I have PE sets, PE parts, resin and aluminum parts. I used to keep them all in a large shoebox, but it would always take seemingly forever to find the pieces I wanted for a particular project. My solution was to organize it all into various categories (Batteries & cables, Bolts & Fittings, Brakes & Master Cylinders, Distributors, Engine Parts, Grilles & Custom Pieces, Hose (Radiator & Heater), Hubcaps (Custom Pieces), Interior Parts & Accessories, Lights & Lenses, Sets (PE), Wire (Assorted Colored Wire For Spark Plugs). I put all of the items in each category in small, separate plastic bags and then use metal Acco Binder Clips to hold each bag and hang it onto small cup hooks which I screwed into the front of a wooden bench in my model area. This method makes it a whole lot easier and faster to find the parts I'm looking for. I keep all my decal sheets in Zip Lock bags in a drawer of my workbench desk. For seat belts I use PE buckles from MCG and either 1/8" wide craft ribbon, or narrow strips of painted masking tape.

At most shows you would pay your entrance fee when you enter and they give you a form to fill out to put with your model on the display table. Sometimes you might also get a second form, or, they will detach part of the form that you filled out to keep and use during judging. After you fill out your form, then take your model to the table for the correct class it will go in and find an open spot to place your model with the completed form under it. Then enjoy the show... Search the various vendor tables for any items that you may need or want, look at all the rest of the models on display, maybe grab something to eat & drink if available, and hang around for the judging results and awards announcements. Have fun and good luck.

I got the 1mm. 2mm & 4mm Molotow Pens from Model Roundup. I used the 4mm one to "chrome" the rear bumper on one of those Airstream camper trailers from Greenlight that my wife picked up for me from ToysRUs. It worked great... Looks just like chrome. Will try to post a picture.

Absolutely spectacular model...!!!

I've usually just used slightly watered down Elmer's Glue to glue the Embossing Powder on. First I'll usually paint the area to be covered with a flat paint color that closely matches the color of the powder......the same thing I do with flocking.

I've refurbished, modified and detailed quite a few promos over the past few years. Disassemble them carefully so as not to break any of the parts. You can sand off the mold lines and drill any needed holes for mounting mirrors and antenna's. I've sanded off some very faintly molded windshield wipers and added ones from my parts stash. Sometimes you may need to polish out any scratches in the glass using Novus 2 plastic polish. You can repaint them using pretty much any paints you would use for regular models, but if you're using lacquer paints, be sure to use a good primer/sealer first. Once it is painted and clearcoated you can use Bare Metal Foil for the chrome trim work. Adding a black wash to the grilles and wheels will really enhance the looks of those parts. You can sometimes also switch tires if, for instance, you want whitewall tires on a 1950's car. Do a Google search on the internet for interior detailing references and you can paint and detail the interiors as much as you want to. Bare Metal Foil can also be used for interior trim, dashboards and window cranks and door handles. If the cranks & handles are not very well molded you can carefully sand or carve them off and then use resin pieces from Norm Veber at Replicas & Miniatures of MD. You can add as much or as little detail to your promos as you are comfortable doing. Above all, have fun with it.

Tamiya's liquid cement is pretty good stuff, as is Tenax 7 if you can find it.

Welcome to our plastic playground Pierre.

Welcome to our plastic playground Wayne.

Welcome to our plastic playground Tommy.

Welcome to our plastic playground Kurt.

Welcome to our plastic playground Jeff.

Eric, I have been following this build from the beginning and I am almost at a loss for words... To say that this is a beautiful car would be an understatement. Your hard work and scratchbuilding skills have certainly paid off. Will you be bringing this model to the NNL East show next month..??? If so, I look forward to seeing it in person. For sure it will get picked for magazine pictures.

That's a sharp looking '57 Jarkko.

Welcome to our plastic playground Mark. I rediscovered this hobby back in 1992 after discovering cars, bars and girls back in the mid 60's. The changes and advances in the hobby really floored me. The huge number of new, improved kits, tools, glues, paints and aftermarket products that have been created over the years is astounding. Photo-etched and aluminum parts plus all the resin products available now allow us to build just about any version of anything on wheels. Super glue and Bare Metal Foil are probably the 2 best things to have come our way. The hobby magazines and the various model shows and swap meets throughout the country really open the hobby up to those "lookers" who want to either get back into the hobby or to investigate it. There is the world's largest model car show coming up on April 22nd in Wayne, NJ that you should plan on attending...... NNL East. Go to www.NNLEast.com for all the info. You'll be blown away by the show...... and be sure to bring along a pocket full of $$$ for the 2 huge vendor rooms.

You're obviously not using Bare Metal Foil if you're spraying Elmer's Glue... BMF has it's own adhesive on the back side.

Welcome to our plastic playground Ronald.

Welcome back to the playground Don.

Welcome to our plastic playground Joe.

Very, very nice Ludwig. I'm hoping that the one I'm working one comes out as nice.

Welcome to our plastic playground Evan.

Just an FYI...... Norm Veber advises that while he will be attending the NNL East show in April, he will not be vending at the show. He claims that he is too backed up with customer orders to be able to cast enough product to sell at the NNL. Kudos again to Norm for putting customer service first.