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I have to agree with the others here, once you start "pinning" your builds you my wonder how you ever kept them together before. What I have used with great results is just using Staples from my stapler. They are easily cut to length and are very small diameter, and inexpensive. I'm financially challenged.

Great looking rack. Like you and many others, I like the eraser on the handle to keep the things from rolling around. What I've done is use different colored erasers to denote what I would use that blade for. You just have to remember what color is witch.

A lot of us will be looking over your shoulder on this one. Its expensive and I've been waiting to see just how good it is.

As you can see in the video, not everyone will stop. My personal experience has been that people do in fact stop and help. Case in point, my wife and I were on our way to a Jeep Jamboree last year in southern Missouri. We saw what looked like a dust storm on the other side of the 4 lane divided highway on the other side of the road. When we got there a semi truck had gone off the road and rolled on its side. We stopped and I ran across the highway and my wife was calling 911. By the time I got to the other side of the center divide several other cars were stopping. The driver was crawling out of the cab badly banged up and in shock. In total at least a dozen cars stopped and one of them was driven by a nurse. It was about 10 minuets before the State Troopers and Ambulance arrived. After the driver was loaded up and everyone gave their statements we all just went on about our way.

No plates and your behind a Police car, makes you wonder what else is going on here.

Art makes a good point about the Potvin super chargers. They had an advantage of better forward visibility and less power loss to drive them. But I remember reading about some of the early uses of the Potvin years ago. One of the things found at that time was that the runners from the blower to the engine as opposed to a top mounted blower was that there was a slight loss of boost because of the runners. I don't recall how much, but it was enough that top mounted blowers seem to become the norm.

Have you bought a dress shirt lately? I have used the clear plastic that they use to make the caller stand up.

Great pictures, thank you for sharing.

You might want to check for the Nomad style v-8 emblems under the tail lights. I didn't notice this until I painted mine. Most people will not notice it, but I know they're there and it bothers me on mine. I kept the small emblem without the V but wish now that I had added it. What color or colors are you think ?

Like the bumpers, looking forward to the wench.

For your front bumper you might look at some of the Jeep off road suppliers for inspiration. Tubular bumpers are very popular and are usually made up of two parallel tubes and an option of a loop in the center going up and forward from the bumper. The idea is if you drop of a ledge going down hill this will keep you from rolling over forward. That can be scary. For a wench mount usually they will use a flat metal plate to mount the wench on top of or behind the bumper with the wire coming thru the bumper. Go to www.quadratec.com, they have good pictures of different bumpers and wench mounts. This might help you decide which way you want to go for both front and rear bumpers, also spare tire mounts.

I'm in for the 5 spokes and big and bigger tires as long as it's not much more than Pegasus prices.

Man I have been waiting for this model for a long time. Can't wait. Just one thing, and I don't want anyone thinking I'm looking for the fly s##t in the pepper , but the molding on the leading edge of the hood looks larger than I remembered. It maybe just the way it's foiled, but I remember this as a very thin molding. I can see that a great deal of work has gone into making this an exact kit.

Great job fitting the hood to the body. I think when I made a remark before about the hood to cowl fit, what I didn't realize was the wood door trim on the door and not the cowl.

Thank you for the info on the hood conversion. I was thinking of using Plastruct 1/8"/3.2 mm "L" stock to shape the curve in the fenders for the hood and then fill behind the "L" stock with putty. From the pictures it looks as thou the hood could even be to narrow.

That may depend on the size of your spark plug wires. There are many different ideas on this , but what I have done is using a prewired distributor I'll drill the head for the diameter wire supplied with the distributor. The Parts by Parks distributors that I usually use the wire is about 0.21 or a number 75 drill. I use the supplied tubing to cut what looks like a spark plug boot and slid over the end of the wire after cutting the wire to length before gluing the wire into the head. The detail is small enough that to my eye it looks like a spark plug covered by the boot. I'm sure there are others here that my have other options for you. I'll also save the spark plug wires that are cut shorter for other detailing as needed. Hope this helps.

Glad to see you are back on this project. I have also thought of the louvered hood on the woody for my next build. I would like to see what all it would take, have never figured out why it wouldn't just be a bolt on.

Love'n the picture of the Ranchero.

Your wife sound like my wife when it comes to Jeeps. She has gotten me into the whole off road thing now. We'll be at the Jeep Jamboree at Land between the Lakes in Kentucky next month. Great looking CJ, what engine are you going to use ?

Great looking build. A friend of mine had one of these in the mid 60's in black. As I recall Ford would mount the surge tank between the radiator and the air cleaner much as the Air Conditioning compressor is mounted. As I recall the surge tank had a tube running from the bottom of the tank to the intake manifold and contained the thermostat. The top radiator hose ran from the top of the radiator to the surge tank. This was done to make the surge tank higher than the radiator so that no air bubbles would be trapped in the cooling system.

Fantastic body work. What was your chrome question ?

I personally would be a buyer. I have owned two El Caminos in the past. A new '67 396/360 h.p. 4-speed. It even had to work for a living. At one time I had 4 - 55 gal. drums of anti freeze and several cases of one quart cans in the bed. Just put those air shocks up to 70 lbs. and that thing would stay level with no problem. Drove it over 100,ooo miles and sold it for half of what I paid for it new. Years later I picked up a well used '66 El Camino 283/225 h.p. with a P.G. No power house but it would keep up with traffic. Fast forward to just before G.M. tanked and they were talking about bringing the Holden Ute as a Pontiac to the U.S. , I was ready to trade my '05 GTO for a new what ever they were going to call it. Then we all know what happened to G.M. and our nations economy. I would very much like to be able to buy an El Camino.

I have used both the "coat hanger" method and the Tamiya stand. What I may be doing different is that I will tape the contact arms to the inside of the body. This way they will stay put and not fall off. Its worked for me anyway.

That's a nice little Chevy 6. The transmission doesn't look like a factory 3-speed manual, more like a "racing" type transmission with the tail housing missing. If you have another transmission you might want to use that. I also noticed it has a power steering pump, not something you often see on a six.

Thank you for sharing your photos. It looks like a great show.