Bugatti Fan

Revell's Jaguar E Type Coupe roof looks a bit odd to me around the windscreen area too, but their roadster however looks about right.

Brilliant model taking shape here Bill.

Great build Matt, and shows the potential of those old white metal Autokits. The observant may have noticed a clear acrylic support under Matt's model. That is because white metal kits are quite heavy overall and the suspension units tend to gradually sag under the weight of the main bodywork.

Nice development into a 'gentleman's' weekend racer. The roofline looks better having been fettled a bit. Good to know that the plastic is thick enough to shape the roof without having to resort to any building up and filling.

It's a sad thing when we hear about any well known cottage industry supplier like Bruce passing. A mixed bag of posts on here from straight sympathy for the family to those wondering if they will get their order or their money back. It looks as though his newly widowed wife is doing her best to fulfil outstanding orders considering the trauma of losing her husband recently and having to organise a funeral plus sorting his personal and decal business financial affairs out. She is having much more to contend with than those of us just buying a few bucks worth of decals. In the grand scheme of things, our model cars are really not all that important.

Like your second Dibnah Land Rover. Quite a contrast to your fire one. Hopefully they may get displayed somewhere by their new UK owner this side of the pond.

Thank you for the suggestions in your reply Les. I will look up MotoBitz about the wheels as possibly the best option of buying a set separately. The Tamiya Lotus 7 looks feasable, but a bit of an expensive option just t rob the wheels from it !

Auto Kits in Finsbury Pavement, London. Thanks for that correction Brian. I visited the store once and thought it was in Holborn trying to remember all those years back.

I guess the prices for using those packages reflects the many hours of development costs for each. I have heard of a 3D program named Freecad but have no idea if it is any good or not for developing stuff for 3D printing. There was a package named ProDesktop that schools all over the world used running on XP up to about 2009 promoted by the software company who developed Pro Engineer. They suddenly decided to stop supporting it and tried to push Pro Engineer Wildfire for schools. I think it was quite a complex program for kids to master and seems to have fallen by the wayside.

I hear what you said about film props being an illusion and not what they purport to be. I can imagine a truck chassis and innards being used and clad to look like something totally different like your model will portray. Ages ago I got to see the film prop spacecraft from Flight of the Navigator and the bikes from the Stallone Judge Dredd movies. I was surprised at how crudely finished they were but they looked good on screen. I like the way that you are running with this as though the vehicle was a real car built with all its relevant running gear on your model. Really makes the concept more beleivable. Took another look at Autodesk. Is Inventor a free to use program now as it has been around for some time and appears to have been replaced with Fusion?

Yessir! I agree with the arfificial. But as for intelligence ??????????? Some one is having a laugh ! And I thought the text 'corrector' that keeps changing words on my tablet when I know that I have typed them in correctly was bad enough !

Your model looks well finished and OK to me Allison. If it ain 't broke, don't try to fix it ! Better your time spent on something new perhaps in my humble opinion.

This is true craftsmanship model engineering at its very best. A combination of many skills, machining, panel beating, fabrication, soldering and brazing. printer. Doing it the Wingrove way I would call it. Traditional methods. A very different discipline to drawing up stuff in 3D Cad and letting a 3D printer make stuff for you.

It's coming off really well Matt. Just shows what can be done with those old 1960's vintage Autokits white metal car kits.

Looks a bit 'out of the box' right now, but a bit of subtle weathering will lift the model quite a bit. There are many books and on line tutorials about weathering if that side of modelling will be new to you. Also books for artists about painting buildings can yield a lot of information about the subtle colouring of various weathered buildings. So 6 out of 10 for the moment.

Alan, for future reference if you only use aerosols, try to look up specialist classic automotive paint suppliers. Many can make aerosols with the correct matching colour for you. Model colours have already been suggested in this thread that you are running with and the TS17 that Matt recommended already is a good bet to use.

Some machine tools really come into their own when attempting to either scratch build or do some serious conversion work. I have a couple of Emco Lathes, a Compact 8 like Jo has and a little Unimat 4 plus a small Clarke Metalworker Milling Machine and a small Toggle Press for forming louvers. All have proved to be a good investment. 3D printing is becoming very popular as a means of using computer aided design for downloading a program for making parts and there is nothing wrong with that approach if it works ok for the end user. The downside however is being limited to using just the one material that can be used for modelling by that method and generally overall strength is not an issue with any of the parts made. Using conventional machines does not limit one, so a variety of materials like metal, wood and plastics can all be machined and the modeller gets 'a feel' in working different materials on those machines.

This is going to be a fascinating build to follow. I can see why you opted for 1/12th instead of 1/8th looking at the Bentley model placed on the top and side elevation drawings. This vehicle has hints of the huge Mercedes 6 wheeler that Adolf Hitler used as a staff car. I wonder if that is where the film maker got the idea for this car from? in your last post you mentioned that you use Inventor for your 3D Cad work. Referring back to your Bentley build you appeared to have been using Fusion that is also an Autodesk product. Are they both the same thing but renamed?

Thanks for that wheel suggestion Trevor.

Kurt, was it Amazon Prime you got automatically subscribed to? They set it up in such a way that you have to opt out of of it, and you have to look carefully to find out where you can on it. Sharp practice unfortunately. It should be made illegal ! They will auto enlist you for Prime every time you use them, so it is important not to forget to opt out each time.

Les, I bought the Mk2 Lotus Cortina body from Andy Swindlehurst at Telford a couple of years back. The shape wasn't too bad but the roof was a bit concave in the middle, but managed to sort it out. Lots of rubbing down though due to the 3D Print layering. I am pretty well on with all the scratch built parts for it already. Thanks very much for your generous offer of those parts but at the stage where I will not be needing anything more for my build. Unless you have a set of deep steel wheels with hub caps like Ford used to fit on the Mk1 and Mk2 Lotus Cortinas in 1/24th scale. I am looking at odd sets of wheels in my spares box to convert otherwise.

When using Amazon do not leave your card details on their site. You can remove your card details off their site immediately each time after you have placed your order. Another scam. My son had some money stolen from his account. Like many, he had his account details stored on his mobile (cell) phone. Don't know how they did it, but the scammer must have found out enough info to enable them to ask for a replacement SIM card. Once they got it my son's phone was disabled as a result. I believe that the scam is named 'SIM Swap'. He spotted it quickly so stopped his card with the bank. The scammer was trying to use it on Amazon too, but my son found out the scammer's email address from them and a postal address where they wanted the parcel to go to. He found out the physical location of that address on Google Earth and downloaded a photo of where they were operating from that was above a shop somewhere in London. The Metropolitan Police fraud squad has been given the details, so the scammers will be getting a surprise visit sometime soon I guess. Identity fraud...How many times do we throw out stuff in the trash with our name and address on it? An ID fraudsters gold mine to set up false accounts in your name. You would not know about it until weeks later when a fraudulent credit card had been used and you receive a statement from the credit card company. Treat any Emails or phone calls purporting to be your bank or any others that look suspicious that look like warnings or saying there is a problem no matter what as scams. Do not open emails out of curiosity. Delete them. Hang up on suspicious phone calls without getting into a conversation. You can always check with any legitimate organisation by making contact later.

Pity they don't allow straight sales on here with a disclaimer as a number of other sites do. What did I receive today? H.G.Wells Invisible Kit !

Sometimes you really have to look at some of those built up and painted models done decades before from often unsophisticated clunky old kits and ask yourself, 'Is it really worth all the bother?' I gave up being a masochist trying to make silk purses from old kit sow's ears long ago. Ironically though, I am still a bit of a masochist in some respects. I recently picked up a 3D printed body shell for a Mark 2 Lotus Cortina to make a model of the car I used to own back in the seventies. I am using (on recommendation) an Italeri (ex Esci) Ford Escort No 2 Rally car kit as a donor kit for the underpinnings and whatever else I can use from it etc. (Don't ask!). Had to extend the kit wheelbase to fit, so lots of fiddling about to do this, plus extensive other bits of scratch building involved. Ah well, God loves a trier I have heard said !

Your crazed windshield. Try rubbing it right back with wet and dry abrasive papers to get under the crazing, that hopefully can be polished out afterwards. Try a car paint restoring polish or even toothpaste for this on it. It may be too far gone to do this, but worth a try if the crazing is just on the surface. As for using brake fluid to strip paint from models, been there and got the tee shirt like some earlier posters. It's quite evil stuff health wise if not carefully used and best avoided if possible.