Bugatti Fan

Acrylics over Enamels is a no no ! The solvents in enamel paints leach out over a long period of time. Going over it with acrylic is effectively covering the old paint with an air tight plastic seal. The solvents in the enamel (unless many years old and eventually gone rock hard) will start to lift the acrylic as they leach from the enamel and attack the acrylic from underneath. I would suggest that over painting enamel be done with enamel to be on the safe side.

I can remember Columbo Trevor. Peter Falk played that character really well and can remember also that old beaten up Peugeot saloon that was his car in the series.

Les could be right about it being a Ford V8 Pilot. It looks like quite a big car. Other alternatives might be a Rover or a Humber saloon of the era as they were aimed at the slightly more affluent back then like doctors and bank managers. Re creations looks the best way to go Mitchy it you are looking to simulate bomb destroyed vehicles. Buying good functional period vehicles that people have restored to destroy them making a movie would be frowned upon by car enthusiasts these days. CGI has got so good now, there is no need to destroy real historic vehicles for movie making. I just think of all those lovely Mk2 Jaguare driven over cliffs or blown up on film sets back in the day!

Nice model. I built one of these a number of years ago when it was a Matchbox kit. Still have another inbuilt kit. AMT made your kit when the two companies had a tie in. Since then Revell have acquired the tooling.

After the demise of both Scale Auto and Model Car Builder magazines it looks like MCM will now be getting a bit of competition from the newly launched Auto Modeler Magazine I have recently heard about.

Talking of flat finishes by Floquil. I think their original formula was for model rail enthusiasts who made their models from metal. The mention of flat finished reminded me that there is a company named Hiroboy in the UK who import the MFH kits. They ave a range of auto colour paints for airbrush use under the name Zero Paints. They go on flat and need to be sprayed clear gloss to finish.

Randy, are the USCP wire wheels designed to take the Revell tyres? They look really impressive in the posted photo. Or have USCP made the wheels the correct width and supply separate tyres of the correct size too? Helmut, I believe that the Motobitz wires for the E Type Jaguar that I mentioned have the tyres moulded integrally as part of the 3D print to correct the wheels and tyres from the Revell kit that are far too wide for that car.

AMT Lacquers. I remember using one of two of them that I got over here in the UK back in the sixties I think. They were very good paints as had some unusual metallics in their range. Flying model aircraft dope. There was a brand named Oh My Dope years back in the UK I seem to remember. It stank to high heaven when I used it on a balsa glider model. Don't know if the brand still exists or not as I have never been into flying aircraft models ever since.

Floquil. Pretty good but very strong smelling paint for railway modellers. Way back in the seventies a very good American friend of mine, the late Professor John Tilley, who back in those days was studying over here in the UK for his PhD in Marine History and a brilliant ship modeller, introduced me to Floquil Polly S Acrylic Model paints, the first of that type for modellers. Very good paint as it happens but I believe it was discontinued quite a number of years ago.

And not forgetting good old Humbrol tinlets and to a lesser extent Airfix's own in little bottles like Pactra's were the go to model paints for UK modellers back in the day, when enamel paints were the only thing in town ! Ahh, the smell of it when mixed with thinners for the airbrush brings back memories of a much more deregulated time when it was left to our common sense to use it properly ! Those were the days eh Pete !

The over bright headlamps. Why not simply coat them with Matt cleat acrylic or enamel to tone them down a bit. Looking forward to Aoshima's 'Back to the Present' kit later. ( A bog standard factory De Lorean).

Jurgen, why not put a post up with a complete set of pictures of your 'Convoy' trucks in it. Your Rubber Duck Mack featured here is a really nice model. A few years back a guy named Alistair McLaughlin over here in the UK was developing a multi medium transkit for the Duck's Mack to correct the Ertl kit. I saw his model made up at the UK Model Truck Show at Gaydon and looked good. He showed me the transkit he was developing at the time but not sure if he ever went into production with it or not.

To be honest Mozzi, of late I must be getting intolerant of the chore of decanting paint for airbrushing and cleaning it up thoroughly afterwards. Or maybe just getting lazy in my old age by using automotive acrylics straight from a rattle can on my models having found ones that that work for me. The airbrush only comes out of I do any custom paintwork now. I would heartedly agree with what you say about 'each to their own' about what works best for them. You might get a laugh out of this but I have to relate a modelling incident of mine many years ago when I decided on my infinite wisdom to airbrush a model with cellulose paint, and being inexperienced at the time was reduced to tears as my expensive model started to dissolve before my very eyes! That and all the other balls ups I have made down the years. Ah well. You win a few and you lose a few. That's life I guess !

Mozzi, please go back and read my post properly before wading in. Been there and got the Tee shirt so to speak intimates that I HAVE experimented with various products over the years. You missed the key word I used in it, 'eventually' about finding what works best for us. Believe me, I can reminisce about some horrible (and expensive) disasters with models I have built down the years by, you might have guessed it by now, experimenting with non compatible finishing products.

If anyone can get Rustoleum or any other DIY paint to work well on their models, then more power to their elbow ! But like many other spray paint aerosols one has to bear in mind that they are primarily aimed at the DIY market. Some may work ok on models. Others definitely not.

I think that eventually we all just settle for what works best for us by having been there and got the Tee shirt so to speak. Newcomers reading this thread might get a bit confused by the on going Rustoleum debate that keeps on simmering. My advice to them would be to use model dedicated products to start off with. You don't want your expensive kit dissolving like a vampire doused in holy water by using any make of inappropriate spray can product.

Much as we like to big up our passion, manufacturers with the exception of a small few generally historically announce their new products at Toy Fairs. Only enthusiasts like us aspire to build models to a high standard and bother to partake in forums like this. From a commercial point of view, manufacturers display at toy fairs to show their products to as many sales outlets as possible whether shop or on line retailers. The reality is that although manufacturers are improving the quality and accuracy of model kits all the time to satisfy model making nerds like us, the vast majority of kits sold just get stuck together and unpainted in many cases, parked on a shelf and probably dumped when layers in dust accrue on them and bits fall off as the passing interest fades.

Pierre, a company named Motobitz in the UK makes 3D printed wire wheels for the Revell E Type. They might now do a set for the DB5. Have a look at their website as they do lots of other interesting things too. Hope this helps. The Revell E Type model against the picture of the real car really does show that windscreen not looking right. Apparently the old Heller E Type has the body proportionally correct from what I have read, but I have read mixed reviews about it overall as a kit.

Rustoleum is probably not a bad paint provided you use it for what it's primary market is intended for, general domestic non modelling applications. You wouldn't use creosote or wood preservative on a scale model fence. So why try using DIY spray paint on a model? Horses for courses. Buy the right thing for the job and save yourself the frustration.

Revell's Jaguar E Type Coupe roof looks a bit odd to me around the windscreen area too, but their roadster however looks about right.

Brilliant model taking shape here Bill.

Great build Matt, and shows the potential of those old white metal Autokits. The observant may have noticed a clear acrylic support under Matt's model. That is because white metal kits are quite heavy overall and the suspension units tend to gradually sag under the weight of the main bodywork.

Nice development into a 'gentleman's' weekend racer. The roofline looks better having been fettled a bit. Good to know that the plastic is thick enough to shape the roof without having to resort to any building up and filling.

It's a sad thing when we hear about any well known cottage industry supplier like Bruce passing. A mixed bag of posts on here from straight sympathy for the family to those wondering if they will get their order or their money back. It looks as though his newly widowed wife is doing her best to fulfil outstanding orders considering the trauma of losing her husband recently and having to organise a funeral plus sorting his personal and decal business financial affairs out. She is having much more to contend with than those of us just buying a few bucks worth of decals. In the grand scheme of things, our model cars are really not all that important.

Like your second Dibnah Land Rover. Quite a contrast to your fire one. Hopefully they may get displayed somewhere by their new UK owner this side of the pond.