zenrat

Don't know about the '65 but the '66 comes with a Cammer and parts to build it as a Grand National car. The underside isn't too blobular (suspension is not standard). Under the bonnet isn't brilliant but could be worse (engine is not standard).

Oil paint thinned with turpentine.

'55 Chrysler New Yorker Town & Country. Moulded in Salmon. Are you listening Moebius?

Don't forget to put some cigarette ends in the ashtray.

This is an AMT Jr Trophy Series '60 Chevy Wagon. One of those rare moments where no one else seemed to realise what the Evil-Bay seller had.

Good work folks. I've got the Poncho engine bay glued into the Skyhawk and the bonnet & boot trimmed up to fit the holes. I've stretched the interior to fit and now have to build up the sides of the boot to bridge the gap. A big petrol tank should help to hide the surgery. Bodywork next. Lots of sink marks to fill and mould separation lines to remove. I might also try my hand at foil casting to preserve the badges and make sanding easier.

It's not even July yet. Plenty of time.

Use a blob of white paint with a tiny spot of black from the tip of a toothpick to simulate birdsh!t.

That looks good but a touch on the large size. It strikes me that the heads of 1/72 jet pilots (jet pilots as they have bigger helmets*) could be modified (by someone with better eyes than me) into a skull which would be closer to the correct size for a gear knob. *fnarrrr fnarrrr arf arf chortle chortle

Nearly everything. Sometimes I get lazy and don't prime small parts like starter motors or oil filters and then regret it when it takes more coats of paint to get a good finish because of brushing paint onto shiny plastic.

I got one of these last weekend and immediately tried it out against an AMT '71 Duster. There is chassis showing at the back of the front wheelarches and I thought I was going to have to shorten the chassis but having read this thread it seems that maybe length is not the problem. If you use the Duster chassis with the Dart body you will need to remove the inner front fenders from either the Duster body or the Dart chassis.

The one's I have (which were dirt cheap from Hobby Link Japan) have more flash than a perverts convention and when i've tried to use them it has always turned out easier to scratchbuild what I wanted. They are basically the airdam, spoiler and box flare sprues from past Fujimi kits that had an optional tuner/competition version. They are not Bosozoku parts although I have seen those in other sets (and i'd love one of the van parts kits). However, I still hold out hope that they'll work on something i'll build in the future. If they are cheap enough and if you're getting something else from the same source (so your paying postage anyway) then it might be worth giving them a try. Because of their nature there will be some Fujimi kits they will fit straight onto but there is nothing written in english on the packaging that identifies what kits they may be. Of course it could be written in Japanese.

Too right. Most of mine fight like hell to avoid being turned into what I want them to be. Ashley - if it's getting to you then put it to one side and do something else. You've got plenty of time before the start and too much effort invested in it to cut corners or risk slamming it into the wall. Anyway, yeah baby i've started! The Doyousha Buick is typical of their nostalgia heroes range in that it has a reasonable body with a horribly shallow interior (to hide batteries and motor) and a generic undetailed chassis. Previously i've cut down a NASCAR chassis to fit one of their Nissan bodies. This time i'm using a Monogram '91 Firebird. The wheelbase is spot on which makes a nice change. I just had to chop a bit off the front of the chassis as the Firebird has a longer nose. Firewall and inner fenders were moulded with the Firebird body (Buick just has a drop in engine plate) so I cut them out and will glue them into the Skyhawk body. I think it looks good white with a red interior so I might keep it like this bar maybe red racing stripes. I'll use the Firebird wheels & tyres and small block but will probably be adding a little forced induction.

I love the way you've rusted the seams where the body has been cut & shut - way to avoid filling and sanding! I've got a build to finish for a show in 10 days time and then i'll be making a start on my Buick. Having seen what i'm up against I think i'll have to step my game up a bit.

Pat, that Nomad is the dogs. I'm hoping you finish it early and then forget to enter it when December rolls round...

I'd be concerned double sided tape would be too sticky. Sticky Dots (AKA Sticki Dots) are what you want. They are like the clear rubbery stuff they use to stick free CDs to magazine covers and should be available from your local office supply store.

Tim, just remember that every question you ask will get at least 2 different answers. Everyone has their own favourite way of doing things and everyone will swear it's the only way and the others are wrong. But usually there is no one "right way". I'd suggest that now you've read up and studied and looked at pictures on the interweb you turn the computer off and just build your model. Don't keep coming back and checking on how to do stuff, just get on with it and give it a try. Sure, chances are it won't be a show winner but it will give you an view of what this hobby is about and will hopefully be a lot more pleasurable than stressing out worrying about if you are doing it right or trying to follow someones confusingly written tutorial with dodgy pics. Just build your kit how you want and have fun. Fun. That's what it'a all about. If you're not enjoying it then it's not worth doing it. Fred

Scale Auto did a comparison a few years back. Try going to the Kalmbach website & searching there for back issues.

You're all doing very well. I'm still here. Done nothing. Probably won't do anything until at least October... Here's something someone on the Australian Automotive Model Builders forum has built...

www.thepartsbox.com used to do 1/25 skulls. Probably still do. Here's a Revell Triumph.

Me neither.

They use them for hunting in the Dordogne. Unroadworthy R4s can be seen for sale bearing signs "pour la chasse" and they end their lives carrying 4 drunk shotgun armed french hunters round the woods in pursuit of deer and boar.

Which will save us having arguments about "when those wheels were introduced" or "the X23 Big Block didn't have the underhand flange monkey grubbler valve blades until 1981". I'm using a 1991 chassis and the biggest engine I can fit in the available space without cutting the bonnet.