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Everything posted by Ace-Garageguy
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Nice to see a high-quality build of a stock lower-line car like a lot of people actually used for basic transportation.
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One of these? Wow.
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I started one of these some time back, got fed up, and put it away for a rest. Let's just say at this point that I have some experience making something nice from awfulness. The real problem is that the nose just doesn't fit the rest of the body at all, and nothing lines up, no matter how much fiddling you do. It's not symmetrical either. The only real solution...short of buying a one-piece body and cutting the nose off...is to carefully fit the nose to the body, paying particular attention to getting the tops of the fenders in a straight line first. Then glue it to the body. Sculpt the lines in the coves, get everything else right...and then cut it back off. WAY more effort than I felt like expending at the time, but I was doing it primarily to illustrate here that it is indeed possible to fix the issues. If you really enjoy a challenge like I do, it's worth it. Otherwise, it's an exercise in frustration.
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Leon CVSTOS AMG GT3
Ace-Garageguy replied to harti20's topic in Other Racing: Road Racing, Salt Flat Racers
Fine fine fine piece of work. -
Beginning to become concerned as well...
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The side-draft Webers most people are used to seeing are 40 DCOEs. Each venturi is 40mm. BUT...Weber also made 45, 48, 50, 55, and 58 DCO-series side-drafts that look like 40s, but bigger. (NOTE: those are the only sizes I'm certain of; there may be more) They were seen on exotic production and racing engines in the '50s and '60s. The Grand Sport engine ran four 58 DCO3s. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chevy-4-x-58mm-sidedraft-weber-inlet-manifold.1002358/page-2
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All the above. ^^^ AND...along with BPA (found in many products, as well as canned food liners and plastic water bottles) and certain derivatives of soy, they're testosterone killers (NOTE: The soy data is inconclusive) https://www.peaktestosterone.com/Phthalates_Testosterone/ There are some extra special folks who refuse to acknowledge it, but average testosterone levels in men of every age are about HALF of what they were 50 years back. https://myparla.com/decreasing-testosterone-levels/ While the exact causes of the mostly global decline are still somewhat cloudy, there is overwhelming scientific evidence that these things DO have a measurable negative impact. https://www.vaulthealth.com/blog/articles/Phthalates-BPA-and-testosterone Don't want to trust my sources? Do your own search.
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True, but the alloy disc wheels available in the Lindberg D-type and the Revell XK-SS kits, or Randy Ditton's beautiful 3D printed 15" wires fix that issue up nicely; though I'm not certain if those wires are right for a Jag, they look great on just about anything.
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Maybe injecting some reality into expectations? It wasn't an easy kit for novices when it came out. It's not a kit for builders wanting a shake-the-box-and-a-model-pops-out experience. In the hands of an experienced builder with some skill and patience, it's every bit as good a kit today as it was 5 decades back. EDIT: Most kits with working features like doors, decklids, steering, etc. leave a lot to be desired in OOB fit and function. And that hasn't stopped a good number of builders from creating exceptional models from them. Life is choices.
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Big smile here.
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One of the things I like to do is take mechanical things out of context, to create abstract designs. EDIT: This would be stronger as an abstract if it was cropped a little tighter at the bottom. Hmmmmm... EDIT 2: Fixed.
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What did you see on the road today?
Ace-Garageguy replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Not on the road exactly... I was over at the airport when I heard big radial engines, looked up to see this landing, waited around for him to taxi in to park "Texas Raiders" B-17G "flying fortress" -
Lancia Stratos - the 3 times rally world champion
Ace-Garageguy replied to 1959scudetto's topic in Diecast Corner
Love these things. Coolest motorized doorstop ever. -
Ummmmm...trade it for gas?
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Autoquiz 555 - Finished
Ace-Garageguy replied to carsntrucks4you's topic in Real or Model? / Auto ID Quiz
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Can I have her flying monkeys?
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AMT Piranha Super Spy Car - Original Art Series
Ace-Garageguy replied to ea0863's topic in Model Cars
Really nice work on this one. -
covidsupplychainissuesinflationglobalrecessionwarinukraine Say that fast ten times, stick your finger up your nose, and turn around thrice while holding your breath, bouncing on one leg. Doesn't fix anything, but it does about as much good as complaining.
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Seems a lot of "men" have forgotten entirely that this isn't what they should aspire to...
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Someone Explain This Sign to Me, Please.
Ace-Garageguy replied to Snake45's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
They're probably going to spit in your burger anyway, so what real difference does it make? -
Roger's mastered the idea, obviously...and it's just like you do a real one. I just pulled the kit to have a look...the rear of the cab and the firewall determine how low you can go with the cab relative to the frame rails. Start by mocking up the frame with the suspension and wheel / tire combo you want to use tacked in place. This will determine the ride height, which you need to establish first. The firewall is already pretty high in front, so I'd begin trimming the rear wall of the cab a little at a time. Then, holding it level relative to the frame, check the height by placing the cab on the rails after each trim to see where you are (I'd also tack the hood, hood sides, and grille to the body so you don't get the nose too low). When you get the look you're after, cut the floor section loose from the fender unit and install the floor in the cab so it holds it where you mocked it up. You'll also need to take slices out of the bed floor to clear the chassis, so you can lower it to match the cab.
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Channeling on any car is by definition nothing but lowering the body relative to the frame. To accomplish this on any car, you determine where the frame contacts the body and floor, then carefully remove material from same, allowing the body to come down. Every channel job is different, and yours won't be exactly like anyone else's, but the procedure is the same no matter what it is. I recommend removing a little at a time, check your stance frequently, (with suspension and forward bodywork tacked in place), and resist the temptation to go too low initially. Measure and mockup a LOT, work slowly and carefully, and engage your brain to think through how things are interrelated.