Ace-Garageguy

There were 2-door and 4-door promos in about 1/25 scale. But beware. I bought a 4-door made from acetate, and it has disintegrated to dust. The shots below show the above-referenced rear fender differences. And shrinkage and warping are almost universal.

Man...that Sterling dump is a beautiful old truck too. I'll certainly be watching for your build thread.

Yup. There are also some that look to be the same at first glance, but aren't. I just went through a long involved process coming up with a set of "big-n'-littles" of just the right visual stagger for a 1/24 Ferrari 250 GTO hotrod. I ended up using 1/24 and 1/25 tires, and mixed scale wheels with some meat added to the rear (1/25) rims to get the right diameter to fit the 1/24 tires...and had to slightly open up the front (1/25) tires to accept the 1/24 rims of the same design, but with a different depth and offset.

I do it all the time. As I'm sure you're aware, real tires come in many different rolling diameters and aspect ratios for the same nominal size wheel. By mixing nominal scales, you can often get just exactly the look you want, and represent a tire or wheel in a diameter that's not available in the nominal scale you're working in. But it's important to be aware of your measurements and scale, as mentioned above. This 1/25 model uses rear tires from a 1/24 kit to correctly represent a much taller rear tire than the front, both on scale 16" rims.

Basically, it's the soap-on-the-mirror effect. It breaks the surface tension of the water droplets that condense on the glass, and the water sheets rather than forming fog. Wiping a bathroom mirror with a little soap will inhibit fogging, so it's easier to shave when you get out of a hot shower. Same principle, and it works on the inside of car windows too.

Pretty cool. Great prices. I need a Caudron for my 1/32 race-plane collection, and I'm always up for any version of the CCKW.

Thanks Joe. I appreciate that detail kit info. I had no idea that existed.

Thanks. Would the later AMT Diamond Reo chassis be at all appropriate?

Beautiful. What is the suggested donor-kit chassis?

Farming, 2021

Agreed. Good stuff I didn't know.

Because when you're the boss, the rules don't apply to you.

Absolutely beautiful. I've been working on something similar, but based on the ancient Lindberg curbside kit.

Good lord. How do you come up with these ugly things? I had no idea stuff like this ever actually got built. I kinda feel bad calling the poor little guy ugly, but damm man... I guess this one could kinda grow on you after a while, sorta like a 3-legged puppy with two heads might.

I got half a ton of lumber to build a Q&D floor and shelves in a 17X25 foot tent, so I can get all the junk from the carport moved out and sorted, and get the Spyder and MR2 in there instead. Time to put the engine back in the Spyder and sort the MR2 electrical problems and finish swapping parts from the donor car, so I can drive 'em both to Arizona. Then the Silverado comes in to get her new engine. She'll be towing the donor MR2, with the '32 Ford body shell in the bed. Got half the floor and half the shelves built, too. Gee. I wonder why I never finish any models.

How about one with three turbines?

Following a discussion here recently about the Kaman Huskie H43 helicopter, I was inspired to find one of the old kits. I just received a virgin Testors Canada repop of the Hawk version I built in my yoot. Nice kit, 1/32 scale, and the decals look perfect. The rotor blades are a little warped, but as is common with most rotorwing aircraft, they droop when at rest on the real one, so it shouldn't be much of a problem. Guess I'm gonna need a 1/32 Huey and Cobra now to keep her company. I wonder if anybody makes a 1/32 Sikorsky H19 and H34.

Exactly.

No fair. How are we supposed to know cars from other planets?

Beautiful work, sir.

Just like you do a real one, basically. And it depends on how low you want to go. Because both axles mount below the springs, you can take some meat off the springs where they meet the axles for a little lowering. For more, you can take meat off the ends of the springs where they meet the frame. For still more, you can reposition the spring brackets on the chassis upward slightly. For the maximum, it may be possible to mount the axles over the springs, rather than under them.

Two AMT kits I'm almost certain came with the vinyl Firestone piecrusts were the Willys/'32 Ford double kit, and the first issue Barris Surf Woody. As noted, the soft ones made a few appearances, and were also sold for the AMT Turnpike slot-car sets.

A smart thing GM did when they built the LS was to keep the same bellhousing bolt pattern, so pretty much anything that will bolt to a smallblock Chebby will bolt to an LS, and can be made to work (with the right flywheel or flexplate, and sometimes a crank-extension adapter...none of which would be visible on a model).