Monty

The fact that you did this decades ago and it turned out exceptionally well won't come as a surprise to anybody on here. My stuff's in storage several states away so I don't have the kits here to measure, but I'd swear the Merc's wheelbase was easily 6 scale inches longer, hence the question.

Thanks. I figured it might be, but I'm looking for chassis designed with poseable steering, which I know the '65 Galaxie has. OTOH, that '60 Ford might be worth getting for what I assume is a far better engine than either of the other kits. Hmmm.

1) Built this kit as a kid decades ago, and would like to eventually take another shot at it. Among other things, I'd like to replace its promo-like chassis with something more detailed, such as the one from AMT's '65 Galaxie. I looked into this a number of years ago because the poseable steering intrigued me, but the Merc has a longer wheel base. How would you modify the Galaxie's chassis to make up the difference? 2) Has anybody ever used an MPC C3 ('68-'82 Corvette) chassis to upgrade the AMT '63 Corvette's 2-wire-axle unit? I prefer them to the Revellogram units because of the poseable steering and the IRS setup.

These guys used to specialize in high speed equipment for Coyotes. Looks like they also offer their own line of assembly adhesives. . HTH : )

The '69 Mach 1 is one of my favorite muscle cars, so I look forward to watching the progress you make on your build. It looks like you're using the Revell kit for this project. If you haven't built it before, you'll find that it's fairly well done with the exception of the front end, which was so "off" it kept quite a few of us from bothering to finish our builds. Fortunately, there is (was?) a resin front end assembly that came out a number of years ago that, while not perfect, is a big improvement. If you're interested, I'm sure these guys could help you find one.

Good questions. I think the last time I saw a pic of what I want was about ten years ago, so my memory is a bit vague, but I believe it was entirely made of P/E parts and was triangular in shape.

You've got some nice stuff there, and those accessories would help dress up any number of engine bays, but it's still more or less a round open-element air cleaner, which is not what I'm trying to find at the moment.

I realize this is a long shot, but I'm searching for a P/E air cleaner assembly that was produced years ago by a manufacturer who is probably no longer in existence, and whose name I can't seem to recall. Yeah, I know... OTOH, we can whittle the field down quite a bit by eliminating all the myriad round, open-element air cleaners. Unfortunately, it's been quite a while since I last saw one, so it'll come down to knowing it when I see it. My ebay searches for P/E air cleaners haven't garnered diddly-squat, so I'm hoping someone here still has one of these and is amenable to making some kind of deal. If you just have a pic of a P/E air cleaner you think might be the one I'm looking for, please post it along with any reference info (mfr, factory part number, etc) you might have. TIA for all helpful replies.

Very nicely done! Gotta ask: what paint did you use for the main green? It really pops on this build.

Here's a pic of a 1:1 '65 Galaxie Focus on how the headlights fit in the bezels, as the AMT kit's bezels have a raised ring, approximately a scale 1/2 inch high, which the headlights sit on, resulting in a much different appearance (no offense to the builder). I'm thinking there's got to be an easy way to do a circular grind that eliminates the rings and leaves a recess that I can Molotow and drop the headlights into (no need to drill all the way through). Suggestions?

You're correct, I should have. OTOH, I now get to learn what a snip tool is and how to use it. Thanks everybody!

Long story short, this relative is a fan of the newspaper comic strip Arlo & Janis. They made a note of three they'd seen online in the recent past that they'd like to have copies of. They would like to have the ones published on 5/31/2019, 6/20/2019 and 6/22/2019. I found the strips in question but was unable to copy/paste them. I can, however, buy the rights to each at dozens of dollars apiece...which ain't gonna happen. I'm guessing it's a copyright thing, but these are going to end up on a bulletin board, not shared with anybody, and it will make them happy for a while. Is there a way I can copy paste and print these without getting into legal issues? I think I've mentioned before that I'm not a computer whiz, so TIA for all civil responses.

I came across this one at the local hobby store somewhere around 1974 and was instantly taken in by the box art. I found it to be a well-designed kit and was especially pleased that it was a non-Hemi-powered Funny Car. Kind of a rarity when compared to virtually every Funny Car Revell and MPC had to offer. Never saw one again before the advent of the internet, and unfortunately, due to some major setbacks in life, I'll never be able to swing the usual $100 - $150 asking price. I'm told AMT reissued it a number of years later in this form but I never saw that version. To be honest, at the time, this box art might've dissuaded me from buying it, where the original almost compelled me.

I'd vastly prefer .020, but if .030 is the closest I can get, I'll try and make it work. Thanks everybody.

Didn't see anything like this on the Evergreen or Plastruct sites. Any other sources out there?

Looking for bumpers, hood & interior parts to make this conversion. Anything else I'll need? Pics of any conversions you guys have done?

He has cable, which I assumed was more or less immune to outside interference.

Need some advice on TV technology. I have an elderly relative who still has a CRT TV. The majority of the time it still has a decent picture and sound, but there are things (Power lines? Neighbors using power tools? Weather?) that cause the picture to deteriorate, and the sound becomes mostly static. Can these issues be overcome by getting him a new (non-CRT, assuming they're even made anymore) TV? If so, let me know the "science" behind the answer so I can make a more compelling argument to switch. I don't have a TV of my own, so I don't know this stuff.

Tom, thanks for the pic and info. Looks like ya nailed it. Martinfan5, your video was informative. I had no idea Sharpie made a tangerine marker. That, in addition to their orange and red, means more accurate detailing options.

Sounds interesting. Link?

Got a '65 Galaxie with chromed tail lights that I'd like to improve as much as possible. I know a lot of you are using markers for various details, and I'd like to see how well they cover and what the overall shade looks like.

Ya know, I really like their aqueous acrylics, so I'll take your advice and give it a shot.

The name was part of a block of their other enamels and was only represented by a very small square of a yellowish color. If this color is something like real honey, I'd be very interested. Either way, pics of something painted with it would be greatly appreciated.

I have used Model Master airbrush reducer for airbrushing Testors/MM enamel paints and gotten satisfactory results. When I tried the stay-within-the-family thing with Humbrol paints, I wasn't as happy with how things typically turned out, hence the switch to lacquer thinner. Some of you may recall a board member whose actual name is Donn Yost (Lone Wolf?). He uses lacquer thinner exclusively with hobby enamels and gets amazing results.

As spectacular as Mark's build is, you probably won't get the full sense of the skill and creativity involved unless you review the WIP thread. I assume most of us aspire to build at this level, but there aren't a whole lot of other modelers who are incorporating brass and machined/milled metal, let alone parts cast from aluminum-impregnated resin in an effort to achieve results like this. Typically, the paint is excellent and the assembly work is virtually flawless. Given everything involved in the making of this model, I'm almost surprised it doesn't run. If there is a downside to seeing a build like this, it's being reminded of my place in the modeling pecking order: