Fat Brian

If the number of lug nuts doesn't matter to you Aoshima makes a very nice set with rubberish tires.

Yeah, that's the one that really crossed the line for me too.

The last two days there have been very inappropriate ads on the site with no visible option to remove it. These ads are for Temu, further solidifying my resolve to never spend another dollar there. I know the mods don't control the ads but someone needs to let the ad folks know to cool it with the pedo ads.

So to confirm, does it have both grilles in the kit?

That's the plasticizer leaching out and yes, they will eat the wheels over time. I don't know if anyone makes replacements. I have first issue Corvette GS and so far the tires on it are behaving themselves so I don't know what is causing those tires to do that. Does it look like it was stored in a hot area maybe?

I've also seen some tractor toys at second hand stores that could be used for parts.

Is a 4-71 among those? That's one I've really been after.

I would be interested in these, I hate cutting the spindles off because they never seem to go back on as strong as the original piece was.

6-71 or 6v-71? Just wanting to confirm. I've gotten a resin 6v-71 off ebay from one of the Australian aftermarket companies. I think I got a 6-71 from Moluminum though unfortunately Jamie is having some serious health issues. There probably won't be any more from him but you might find one in the wild somewhere.

I have a cheap Black & Decker electric screwdriver I use. It turns slowly enough to not melt the plastic and I bought a set of drill bits that have hex ends that fit drill drivers. Lately I've seen small drill chucks that have a drill driver end so I could use regular drill bits too.

That's popular with the patina guys, some home made preparations included WD-40 as well. Its a good way to give a little protection to older paint and water resistance to flat and primer paints if they're not going to be painted over.

Post a pic of where its low to see if we can identify the issue. This kit has some very vague fitment and it can be hard to see what the issue is.

It's available in the 30 coupe kit right now so should be easy to get.

I agree that each kit is very much its own animal and there are winners and lovers of every brand. But, especially with younger builders Revell is making a better name for themselves than AMT/MPC due to a larger portion of their tools being newer and in better condition. The General Lee alone has caused a lot of disappointment among younger builders on Reddit.

I would say the quick changes for sure, I bought 4 but wish I had a few more. I wish I had gotten more of the conversion parts for the Revell Hemi and Olds engines. I would like a few more LaSalle transmissions too. Honestly, I would take anything.

I wish Monogram would have hung around. I prefer 1/24th scale and their later offerings like the 69 Talladega and 91 Ford trucks were very good.

I wouldn't worry about the skill level on kits honestly. They don't seem to be based on any tangible criteria and it all goes out the window if you start swapping parts or deviating from the instructions. A lot of times the easiest way to build something isn't the best way, the instructions will have you gluing painted body parts together when gluing them first makes assembly more difficult but give a better finished result.

Testors/Model Master will yellow, everything a used it on now has a slightly golden hue.

Does it have to be a big block Chevy? The Buick engine in the Revell Model A kits has one of the best mechanical fuel injection style setups available in plastic.

Since you're using the 1/24 scale Arii kit the Monogram T/A kit is probably your best bet for donor parts. That kit has a flat hood for the custom version but it has a hole cut in it for the tunnel ram intake. You might be able to use the T/A hood to cut a patch panel from. Here's a pic I found of the flat hood.

Your body does need to sit a little lower on the fenders, it should rest on the notch on the front of the rear fenders. I also had to sand the front of the body to fit between the front fenders fully. What I ended up doing was cutting the floor pan out so I could attach the fenders to the body and still get the interior in. Once I had the body in the fenders correctly I had to bend the sides of the hood out so it would go over the cowl fully then trim the back edges of the hood until it laid on the fenders right.

This is an area where whether you're building something as a factory replica or a custom build plays a large roll in what color it is. Also, to get super nit picky I would call the areas shown the engine bay and the underside where the tire is the wheel well. Chrysler products in particular mostly had body color engine bays and the underside wheel well area would be body color, gray or black depending on who painted it and whether undercoating was applied.

Yes, you can get good results from cans. I would strongly suggest sticking with hobby paints at first, not all types of spray paints play nice together and you can minimize the risk of those issues by keeping to one brand or type of paint. I know they're more expensive but any value gained by trying general use paints is usually lost in time stripping it and ruined parts that have to be replaced. One of the most important things that improved my paint jobs was wet sanding my primer. Out of the can primer is too rough and paint won't lay down smooth on it. Hitting it with 1500 grit under the faucet makes a huge difference. Another thing is building up the paint slowly. Cans put out a lot of paint so giving it a few minutes to tack up between coats can help prevent runs. Another aspect of this is how far away you hold the can, too close and you gets runs but too far and the paint texture is rough.

I just bought a sealed California Sunshine kit a couple months ago, I'm very glad I didn't over pay now.

I would try to strip it first and see if the plastic got etched or if it was just a paint reaction. If you can get it to strip then you can better decide if you can save it or not.