Fat Brian

You can do that, the foil does get oxidation on it over time so the clear might keep it good and shiny. The only issue is the clear potentially yellowing, Testors clear is bad about that.

Thank you, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

I agree with what others have said. I built some models on commission years ago and you're lucky to break even on materials so you're basically doing it for free.

There's a lot of great Japanese stuff for 96, the Supra, Skyline, and NSX for starters. The Revell Super Stallion Mustang would also make a great Cannonball car.

Is this what some Firebirds have a narrow panel between the tops and others have a wider panel? I've noticed this but never knew what the difference was.

Revell has two 77-78 Firebird kits, one in 1/24 scale based on the Monogram 79 Camaro kit and one in 1/25 scale that if I remember correctly is based on a diecast kit. The 1/24 kit doesn't have all the decal stripes for a Bandit car but the 1/25 kit does. The 1/25 has big mounting notches in the body for the door handles and mirrors but is arguably overall a bit better detailed. On the 1/25 kit you also can't install part of the nose until the interior is in.

These are the parts from Iceman, they're just a generic IFS that can fit a bunch of applications. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Resin-Dropped-Front-Suspension-Control-A-Arms-Spindle-Custom-Slammed-1-24-25-/392725886164?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

If it's based on one of the old Monogram kits yes, if it's the new Salvinos designed kit parts probably not. Some of the early Salvinos GM kits have a Dodge style torsion bar suspension.

Someone will put up a poll.

Setting solution can damage some aftermarket decals depending on how they were printed. Stuff from an Alps printer is usually okay but things printed on a normal printer and covered in clear to seal it can come apart. The white areas on the blue shield decals are where chunks of the color came off when I put setting solution on them.

I really like that, it looks very unsuspecting on a first glance.

It could be a filter or water separator for the air system. The air compressor is on the fan belt just behind where it mounts.

If you're using stuff like Duplicolor that dries really fast you can work pretty quick. I've gone from a bare body to a painted and cleared one in a day. I do two coats of Duplicolor white primer pretty close together and give them an hour to dry. Then I wet sand the primer with 1000 grit and set it aside to dry for another hour. Then it's two or three thin color coats, one about every 30 minutes. Then I let those dry for two or three hours then hit them with clear, either Mr Super Clear or Rustoleum Laquer. Finally I'll set that aside to cure for a week or so.

There isn't a direct stock replacement for that front suspension. You can use the front end from a Monogram GM NASCAR kit, it has fairly stock looking A arms and it would be easy to adjust the track width for the truck body. For a single piece suspension you can use the one from the Monogram 70 Chevelle or 64 GTO, or even the 70 Buick GSX. GM A arms pretty much look the same so the easiest set to get your hands on should work, especially on a modified vehicle.

Building semi trucks and armor really changed my build order. I used to paint almost all of the parts on the trees and then assemble them, now I'm much more likely to build large sub-assemblies and spray paint them then go back and pick out details.

Yeah, the advantage of the unmarked is it could be unmarked anything, especially with a DC or Virginia plate.

The AMT 70 Chevelle is 1/25 so it's engine is going to look a bit small in the Monogram truck. I doubt anything from the Monogram Heavy Chevy Chevelle kit will fit the AMT engine but if you have the entire Heavy Chevy engine that's what I would use. There isn't a lot of 1/24 American engines on the aftermarket since most US kits are 1/25. If you want an LS the 2000/2001 Revell/Monogram Camaro has a good one and that kit is fairly cheap.

I used the engine from a Monogram NASCAR kit for a small block in my build of that kit. For big blocks, the Monogram 70 454 Chevelle has the most stock looking one. The Monogram 66 Malibu street machine and 39 Chevy both have modified versions of a 427 with an aftermarket clutch housing and either a tunnel ram intake or supercharger.

The AMT NASCAR kits have something pretty close.

I think the rear tires might be from an early (pre 2005 or so) AMT 70 Superbee pre street. I remember my first one in the late 90s had lettered tires.

This is the performance version 4.6 with the 4 valve heads. This one isn't supercharged, it just has very long intake runners.

I found something I can work with from White Zombie. Gripping the wheel his knuckles went white with desire The wheels of his Mustang Exploding on the highway like a slug from a 45 True death 400 horsepower of maximum performance Piercing the night This is Black Sunshine

You could try 91% alcohol.

Wow, sign me up.

Painting is a lot more than a list of facts. It's knowing in the moment if you're too close or too far away based on how the paint looks and how to adjust that. It's knowing when another pass or two on a side or area will cause a run and how not to get yourself in that situation in the first place. Basically, all the "head knowledge" in the world will only get you so far. There is another layer of muscle memory and experience that can only be gained by doing the thing, often unsuccessfully in the beginning. Fortunately, Testor's paint is easy to strip. Invest in a mop bucket and a gallon of Catrol Super Clean.