Fat Brian

I've had old foil get a layer of oxidation on it. I learned this when rubbing it down put black streaks all over a flat white paint job. Putting the sheet on a hard surface and rubbing it with a soft cloth should get most of it off.

I have. There has to be some kind of chemical reaction happening since it goes on kind of gray and then the highly chrome surface seems to rise to the top. When my pens went bad the just stayed that mottled grayish silver and the chromie goodness never appeared.

I've had mine over a year and it still works like new. I think since the refill seals tightly whatever evaporates out of the pens and makes them not work stays in the refill.

I think it just means you're a man of refined tastes.

The AMT Sunbeam Tiger has a 260 v8.

This one popped up just now, I'd hate for my wife to see it and think I'm doing something untoward.

They've been having some issues lately, I would hold off ordering until they get going again.

I'm pretty certain the hood does open on the AMT Ford vans.

My first vehicle was an 85 GMC Sierra Classic long bed pickup. It had been repainted 90s GM light blue by someone but was originally a brown on beige two tone. I got it when I was 17 and had it for about three years. I moved out of my parents house with it and it was my wife an I's only vehicle when we were first married.

My wife's first car was an 83 Cougar 5.0 and it was a piece too. Her dad finally sold when the electric fuel pump died he didn't want to drop the fuel tank.

It's a bit lighter than the lid in my experience.

Duplicolor also has a color called performance white that's about half way between Wimbledon white and true white.

There is a version of the Massey Ferguson with wider rear tires and headers.

It is believed the farm implement stuff stayed with Ertl when Racing Champions bought AMT and the model side.

I believe you're right Snake, the 4 doors and formal tops had flat trunks while the hard tops with the curved glass had the dip in the trunk.

Each tool has it's own purpose, pens are great for some things, others are better with a brush, sometimes I use a toothpick with a drop of paint on the tip. You just kind of have to experiment and see which tool works best for the task for you.

There are for and others you can get close. The wagons will be the hardest to find. Starting left to right you've got a big Pontiac you could use the 70s Bonneville kit for, I think a 70ish Chevelle might be next, then a Pinto on top, I'm not sure about either wagon up front. The Atlantis reissue of the old Revell Cadillac would work for the one here, the next one might get spendy for a Johan Dodge or Plymouth you can see the rear of and it's sitting on something GM. The free standing one is an early 60s X frame GM something then it looks like an early 60s Galaxie with a 66 Chevelle on top. I'm sure there are more pictures that can help with more thorough IDs.

I agree, once I get my model room finished an airbrush is the next major purchase. It will pay for itself quickly.

I can get 12 Oz cans made locally for $30 so that is looking like the best route at the moment.

I'm looking for somewhere to find correct 60s and 70s green paint colors in spray cans. I'm mainly interested in ivy green and highland green along with the light chevy green. I've tried modern paint and the tone just isn't right but I don't want to spend $30 on a custom mixed can from the paint shop.

It's a shame the cowl and windshield are so flat on these kits, the flared fenders are a neat option.

The two front tires are the good Wide Ovals from the Baldwin Motion Camaro kit. The rest of it is typical of it's time, the body is good if you've got a stock chassis and interior.

Steve, here's a good article about it showing what is considered to be the most correct Daytona restoration around. On that car the under side has gray primer showing through in lots of places. There are many Dodge and Plymouth cars out there with their entire floor pan painted body color and that doesn't seem to be correct. Since a lot of this work was done by hand I imagine there is some variation from car to car. https://newoldcars.com/why-factory-overspray-on-vintage-cars-is-so-misunderstood/

Glad I could help. If you decide to build the shackles you might can add an axle support coming out of the top of the axle to help support the weight of the car.

Those are extended shackles used to raise the rear end of the car. You can replicate them with Evergreen strips but they're pretty delicate. To kind of fake it you could add a couple thin strips coming down from where the rear of the spring mounts. As for the exhaust, not every car had the shotgun tips, especially cars without the hot engines. I imagine the car has the standard exhaust tips that just turn down behind the rear valance.