Fat Brian

This is the thread I got the info from, look for Mr Mopars post about 2/3 of the way down.

I would buy the 11x22 tires, I just bought three IH 4300s at Ollie's mainly for the wheels and tires.

I believe the Transtar II Eagle, the second version with square headlight bezels is coming some time next year.

I have a snap kit that's going to donate its roof, it's about an 1/8" too narrow for the lower part of the sleeper so I'm going to have to add a little scab to each end and blend it in. It shouldn't change the overall look of the top.

For one that size you're right on the line between a heavy pickup chassis and a commercial truck chassis. For ease of acquisition I might start with an AMT C600 or the Ford Louisville. Those chassis are long and flat and straight so you can just start hanging big flat pieces of sheet stock.

Thsts fine, figured I'd ask. I want to build a B model and need the Aerodyne sleeper. I didn't notice there were different versions until I'd bought mine.

Yeah, I still buy CDs. One day when the internet doesn't work anymore I can still listen to my favorite songs on the hard copies.

The hood scoop is the one in the Monogram Super Bee 440 six pack kit. I dont know if anyone does it in 1/25 scale.

Yeah, I wasn't considering that the existing grille will probably not be used at all due to the difference in the noses.

I'm almost certain the bumper and grille will be separate, if I remember correctly you have to insert the kit grille from behind the nose piece and it wont fit through the opening from the front. Just adding a bumper to the existing piece will make it not fit either way.

If you're not committed to the Aerodyne sleeper I'd make it worth your while to trade me for the more modern one.

I'd take another General, the one I've got is the warpy 90s reissue.

The top torsion bar is molded into the chassis pan on the new 68 Beetle kit so it kind of limits how low you can go with the stock pieces. To get really low the easiest thing to do will be to cut the wheel mounting pins off the kit spindles and make new spindles where you can reattach the mounting pins higher up. The rear is pretty much the same, the piece that is the rear torsion bar and swing arms mounts solidly to the chassis plate with no real way to lower it other than cutting the wheel mounting pins off and relocating them. It's not as bad as it sounds, I did the same thing to raise a beetle I'm working on.

Which version of the T600 did you get?

From what I could tell that's the truck kit they had the most of. I want a few more myself if they stick around until next week. The IH kits have the best modern ringless 10 holes AMT offered.

I was there at lunch today, the stack looked pretty fresh.

The Ollie's in Mattews NC has the Kenworth and IH trucks, the chrome Texaco tanker, the 72 GTO, Der Beetle bus, a few 05 300C's, a couple different modern Corvettes, and a snap MPC 49 Merc police car along with a few odds and ends still left over from other sales.

It's a Cat diesel but it's a bit big for a pickup.

That is the first release of that kit, there is a second release that has a flat top sleeper with a great big fairing on top. I have the second version, it's very similar to the W900 and K100 kits and shares most of the same chassis parts. I'm pretty certain it has the twin turbo Cummins motor. I'd love to have that Aerodyne roof.

The Freightliner FLD is also a 90s to early 2000s truck.

Revell offers two snap tite trucks that are very good kits despite their simplified nature. Unfortunately both of these kits are too modern to be a donor for your truck. Personally I would use the AMT Diamond Reo or Autocar kits as a donor, these are closer to the year of your truck and have a suspension closer to what would be used on a logging truck at that time.

Here is the main panel of the instructions for the rear suspension of the Super Boss. The kit had the cranks on the outside of the frame toward the rear so you'll have to swap them to the inside and sand off the mounting tab. The axle is also round so finding a match for it with a power divider will be tough. Overall it looks pretty simple to do the conversion, you'll just need a spare set of matching axles or at least a leftover power divider and a driveshaft for the rear axle.

Does it have the painted windows like the SS kit? That is a huge bonus that will get me to pick up this issue even though I've got one of the last issues already.

I've been thinking about doing the very same thing so this thread has been very helpful to me. I bought several kits for the engines and was wondering if it was possible to replicate the tandem torsion bar setup. Thanks for the info.