Fat Brian

Did they fix the straight six at all? The bottom of the block being angled is very incorrect.

Mostly just rain my way, it was moving so slow it petered itself out before it got to me.

I believe Hakan is correct, the two notches in the axle are for the four link setup.

The flooding with this storm is incredible, there are reports of Wilmington getting 15" of rain and it's still raining there. Authorities are talking 1000 year flood levels in an area that gets storms like this every couple of years. These storms usually blow through in half a day but it's been sitting in almost the same spot for a day and half and at the rate it's going may be there for another day. Not heeding the warnings wasn't the best decision but what is happening is very abnormal.

I don't think it's from a NASCAR kit, there's no provision for the rear end oil pump.

One of the Revell 57 Chevy kits is supposed to have large diameter steelies in it.

For putty application I've started using balsa wood strips of various widths. You could also use left over popsicle sticks. Sand it to a thin edge and use it like a tiny putty knife. For cutting I use a grinder nail file, it's about 200-300 grit on one side and 400ish on the other. From there I work it to its final shape with finer files.

Cat made a 12 cylinder version of the 3408 in the Revell W900 kits. You can usually find them on Ebay from someone who parts out kits. If you don't mind going into the fantasy realm a bit you could get two resin V903 Cummins motors and combine them.

Very cool. You and I seem to be on the same wavelength recently, both doing L9000s around the same time and I've been planning a similar F8 build with a Dencon cab I got a while ago. I'm using a C600 frame for mine and have been trying to decide between a 671 and a 6v71 or scratching another 453. I'm watching yours with much anticipation.

I'm just west of Charlotte, all the French toast makings are gone along with bottled water. Gas and diesel are running low too.

Sometimes a trip to the stripper tank will help, especially if the windows have paint between them and the body. This is even better since you aren't trying to save the glass.

Hey, that looks very familiar, I'm working a build inspired by the same car.

If someone entered something they had bought from me in a contest it wouldn't bother me that they were taking credit for my work, it would bother me that they are a liar and a cheater and I wouldn't knowingly sell anything to them again. I would be far more upset if I had entered my work in a contest and found out someone had bought their entry.

Here's an article about the car, it may say what the wheels are. http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/1505-worlds-wildest-mustang-ii-is-it-an-evolution-or-revolution/

I'm watching it, the last two builders in similar condition went for about $45 each.

Thanks everyone, I'll keep shopping for a Johan kit. I could fix the AMT body but my time is worth the few extra dollars.

Growing up my friends dad had a green on green Roadrunner but I was too young to learn much about the car. I recently tracked him down and it turns out the car is a 69, originally it was a 383/727 car but was had had a 440 upgrade by the time I saw it. The car also was optioned to have the GTX style bucket seats and center console. Converting the AMT 69 GTX is probably the cheapest option but the AMT body has some... limitations and I will still need a Roadrunner grille and tail lights. I could get a Johan kit but they're getting a bit spendy and I still want to use the AMT chassis so I won't use most of the Johan kit anyway. Does anyone cast the Johan 69 Roadrunner body that I could swap on to the AMT kit?

I want to say I saw there a day or two ago but I won't swear to it.

It looks like the kit has the coil spring F150 front end where the 250 and 350 trucks had leaf spring front ends.

The best thing I've found are the photoetch saws from Model Car Garage. They're thinner than an Xacto blade and I've found the make a finer cut with much less of a gap left when the panel is out. I don't saw along the panel line, just run the tip of the blade back and forth in the line and it slowly works through with barely a hair breadth of plastic removed. They also work great for making cuts where your razor saw won't fit.

Thanks, I should have put a little spring in there so they look more like clamps but they're so small I'd probably have to use a light bulb filament.

I was originally going to paint it blue for a bit of color because the body was going to be gray primer before I went with red oxide and white. Once I went a different way with the body I used gray for the welder since it looks more like a Lincoln unit.

I guess I wanted everything I would need to get myself back home if anything broke or I had to recover the truck. I'm not really outdoorsy do I didn't really think of camping gear or things like that. It makes sense now that you mention it.

It's not finished but here is where it's at currently.