Fat Brian

That engine needs just a little work, the top of the block and the bottom aren't parallel and it looks like the crank sits at an impossible angle. Also, the transmission points down when installed. You dont really see it when its installed but on the bench it's a bit wonky

For styrene red tube glue has its uses but there are also Tamiya brushable glues for applications where you want the glue to flow. For clear parts several companies makes non fogging glues and epoxies that dry clear, personally I've started using Testors waterbased clear brush paint. Photoetch and metal parts either need super glue or small pieces could use clear paint or Future as you mentioned though it will be a bit fragile. Resin and 3d parts need super glue or epoxy depending on the size of the job and the strength desired. For holding small parts I typically glue the part in question to a bamboo skewer or piece of extra sprue. Almost every part has at least one area that wont be seen once everything is together.

Finally found a set of the MRC Goodyear tires I'd been looking for so I bit the bullet and got them. I didn't really like the all terrain tires on the front of the beetle, these street tires give it much more of a pre-runner look.

Theres two possibilities, either it's the color to paint it from the color chart in the instructions or its indicating which sprue tree the part is located on.

I used a piece of plastruct hexagonal rod and drilled it through then attached a tiny hexagonal bead to a flat side for the third opening. The rod is under 1/8th inch and the bead is the 0/15 size.

That's a very nice pile of malaise.

I recently saw a video of a mid engined v8 VW bug and now I want to build it. I love the early split rear window, shorter windshield, and teardrop headlights so I'm going to have to use the 1/16 Revell kit but i dont know where I'd get a modern v8 and transaxle in that scale. The actual car uses an Audi twin turbo engine and transaxle but I don't care about the brand as long as the setup fits in the bug body.

I just wanted to post a progress pic. Most stuff is in paint, doing assembly and detailing stuff now.

You need to take at least 1/8" out of the front axle. I just left the front drums off to not mess up my spring mounting points.

For a modern clear lens look I used googly eyes from the craft store. The 6, 7, and 8mm sizes are perfect for models and a few bucks will buy a nearly lifetime supply. Just use a very sharp blade to slice the white backing off and attach with you favorite clear drying glue. On my 77 Mustang II I drilled out the stock bezels and used the backs from a 2010 Mustang but the newer kit didn't have round lenses so the googly eyes stepped in.

Yeah, it's fun to dump on things online and the reddit demographic skews a lot younger than here, some builders aren't used to ancient beasts like the AMT kits. The kits aren't BAD, they're just difficult when compared to newer offerings and come with their own unique challenges. All can be built into very nice finished products as long as you spend the time to get each assembly straight and lined up correctly.

Most of the AMT semi kits are old toolings, late sixties to early seventies, some of the parts fit a little vague and there is a lot of truing up and filling to do. They're good kits but it takes some effort to get the frame straight and aligned correctly and there is just generally a lot of cleanup to do. Personally I would recommend either the Revell snap Peterbilt or Kenworth or the AMT Mack DM600 that's out now. The Revell kits build up well and and let you dip your toes in the heavy truck modeling world without totally drowning you. The DM600 is a full build kit but is a generation or so ahead of the AMT kits originally being an MPC kit. The parts are crisper and the fit locations are clearer. Do a bit of research on whatever kit you pick and feel free to visit us in the truck section, there are lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you out.

One thing I didn't see mentioned but I find totally irreplaceable are Model Car Garage photoetch saws. They come in several different shapes and clamp in a #11 Xacto handle. They're super thin do you barely lose any material in the cut.

It never got much further than that, I really need to finish it.

These are the ones to look for, there is also a Munsters version of this kit in black that can be found cheap.

The easiest way to get the tires is buying the AMT USA-1 kit. It was in constant production for about a decade so the market is fairly glutted with them. Don't pay more than $15 or so for one.

I've about gotten my roof rack fabbed up, I'm not adding the floor slats until I get the body painted but I wanted the frame on so it was good and secure.

I'm starting to collect parts to build the semi truck from the Fallout video games. I'm trying to decide on a good starting point and wanted some input from the group. I've got a 50 Chevy truck and 50 and 53 Fords but could also get one of the available COE resin kits.

I bought the 15/0 size and they are perfect for AN fittings and hose connections. They're under a 1/16th wide and the hole is just a bit bigger than a scale spark plug wire. $6.00 got me enough for the rest of my life, well over 1,000 I'm sure.

I just completed my third trade with Scott8950, super smooth and great packaging.

I'm glad l held of paying Ebay prices for the Autocar dump truck now.

I actually built a master for the LTD since I made this post.

That is an old centrifugal supercharger setup. The AMT 60 Starliner has the best early FE out there.

I still kick myself for missing the GTA last time it was out, the Karmann Ghia too.

Thanks, it's hard to tell the tone from old video, it looks like the bumper treatment is a bit different than the kit too.