Fat Brian

Yeah, I dont know that the front is narrowed as much as it is stretched. It looks like the front wheels are moved forward about a quarter inch then the front is at least a half inch to an inch longer than the stock one. If you do decide to narrow it I'd make the cuts right along the lower edge of the hood bulge.

There isn't a rule against it so go ahead.

Thank you, there were a few days where I thought I had ruined a couple of kits so I'm glad it turned out as good as it did.

Thanks Rob, I'm just glad I was able to get it done in time. The wheels are from BNA Model World out of Australia.

The Mustang is done. I'm going to try to take some better pics for the vote thread but I wanted to get something up tonight. Just for a brief review I started with the AMT 77 Mustang II kit. It's got the chassis out of a Revell kit of the same car. The engine is from the Moebius 69 F100, it's a 240 straight six that is accurate up to the 300 ci version. In my build it's a 300 with a custom cross flow head made from two 4.6 modular heads shortened and turned end to end. I made the intake and exhaust manifolds from Evergreen and used an Ebay turbo. I stretched the wheelbase about one inch and added the wheelwells from a 2005 Mustang that also donated it's front suspension and headlights to the cause. The rear suspension is from the AMT 350Z kit along with the side mirrors and spoiler. The seats and steering wheels are from the AMT Supra. The wheels are Factory81 20" BBS with tires from Ebay. I made the body kit from Evergreen and putty. Here is a pic of the car that became the design theme of this build. I want going in quite this direction until I saw this car, it's not an exact replica but I drew pretty heavily on some elements.

I ordered something from them recently and had the same experience, my stuff came after about 8 or 9 weeks but I couldn't get any communication.

The Supra setup is a strut type but has upper and lower control arms. The 350Z has lower arms and coil springs. If your looking for trendy mods anything from a 240SX would be ideal. I put the Z setup in a Mustang II and had to back halve the chassis because there wasn't enough room for the new suspension and the fuel tank/spare tire.

The AMT and Tamiya MkIV Supra kits have IRS as does the AMT Fast and Furious 350Z. Mustangs didn't get IRS until 2015 so kit options are very limited. C4 Vette kits are a dime a dozen and the rear end is pretty easy to transplant into a different chassis.

The Mustang is on her feet permanently now, just a few more parts and a final touch up and polish to go. I should have completed pics in a day or two.

I agree, that article really opens up the limits of what can be done. You definitely want to take a Smoky Yunick approach to interpreting the rules. I certainly dont feel so bad about some of the mods I was planning anymore.

As long as you don't change the type of suspension, say leafs to coilovers, a slight lift is fine. Same with the fenders, as long as they remain their original material you can modify them. Rob has stated that as long as there isn't a specific rule against a mod then it's allowed.

Thank you, that image is great.

Rob, put me down for number 2 if it's not already taken.

I understand, you've been dealing with some major life stuff lately.

I bought the Tiger first and was going to do it and had a good plan worked up and then the idea of a Baja Beetle started percolating in my mind. The Tiger will make a worthy racer though.

Don't feel like you can't build one too, there are so many options that they won't turn out too similar.

A friend of mine has a Ventura and was wanting me to build a replica of his real car. I'm planning on dropping the resin JF body on the new Revell Nova chassis.

After much consideration I'm going to enter the Revell 68 Beetle. It's simple, rugged, and darn near indestructible and with some mods can make a respectable offroad racer. I'm thinking a warmed up flat four with big bore aftermarket cylinders and dual port 1600 heads, Weber carbs, maybe even a centrifugal supercharger if I get really crazy. I'm going to lift the suspension a bit and radius the fenders to get some more aggressive tires on it and I've found s source for some resin aftermarket wheels that are very period looking. I'll announce a number once I go through my decals, I have several sets of roundels somewhere.

I'll leave all that for Rob to answer, I don't want to talk out of turn.

As long as your entry follows the rules that are forthcoming it will be fine, it doesn't have to be a replica of an actual car that competed in the race. I agree Pete, I was already thinking of all the supplies I'd like to have on hand and what kind of car would allow me to carry the minimum of extra junk.

That is very impressive. I've got the Mustang a bit closer. The chassis is in the body and the motor is in. I just need to finish some of the piping and put on the wheels and a few body details. Then a little more polishing and it should be done.

Okay, that is the info I was looking for, basically period correct equipment and mods. I can work with that.

I need some clarification on rule 8.1.4, No changing of the engine make or configuration. The make part is pretty clear, it's the configuration part I want to pin down. Are they just talking about the number or layout of the cylinders or the total setup of the engine from the intake on out? Can we add multiple carbs or a supercharger or turbo as long as we keep a stock type engine or do we have to keep the stock style intake?

Dajibans are super niche but would be an interesting start for a Cannonball build. Rob, I'm very glad both builds will be run next year since they're both so different.

The rivets on top of the cab are wrong anyway so losing them or redoing them wouldn't be a bad thing. I believe there is a post on the truck forum with a picture of the correct pattern for the rivets.