gtx6970

One Ive been working on off and on for about the past 4 - 6 months when I get inspired. I saw the 1/1 at a local cruise in last summer and knew I found the color combo I wanted for my builder. Not sure if its OE correct or not. But I like it and thats all I needed. Its not a true replica but it fills the niche. Color is Krylon shortcuts Bonnet Blue with testors clear. Interior is ( I think ) Tamiya french blue ( been painted a while and the can is now long gone ) trimmed in white , with a dark blue embossing powder for carpet. Added a shifter and turn signal lever to the steering column. Sunvisors and top boot are probably not correct in such a dark blue ( boot was missing on the car when I got it and this was in my parts box so I made it work ) I was tryng to make an uptop from an AMT 1961 Ford fit,,,and failed horribly.

Mark, I can use this 63 for something else at some point. But I want a 62 to convert to a sedan . I have a couple possibilities to get one in the works ,,,,,one an original kit and also a hurt promo I know there's a resin avail, I just prefer stryene if at all possible

Did TM Resin end up with the masters Wendel Sowers had / made / was selling ? Ive got a few of there products , and I have no complaints http://www.ebay.com/sch/t.m.resin/m.html?item=382019688011&hash=item58f225d64b%3Ag%3A2nUAAOSwDN1UQaZl&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Not my idea. But its been one of the best tips I ever received. Thanks to Steve Guthmiller ,aka the Master of the old annuals. On emblems and small name plates. I do the bare metal foil on them 1st, before any paint of primer goes on. Then once painted and before clear ( if I even need to clear it ) take a small Tamiya pointed Q tip dipped in lacquer thinner and very carefully wipe the pain off the raised emblems . Depending on the emblem a toothpick dipped in same lacquer thinner works nice as well A few examples Ive done with it.

Nice, I made a mistake, Mine is a 63 not a 62 . So,,,, my hunt continues for a clean builder or distressed 62 Promo

Are the decals to do either one of these cars avail ? besides custom made .

Ive got a file box full of them , and would just as soon get rid of them all . All my subscriptions expired years ago and no interest to renew any . Every once in a while I may pick up one at the grocery store or Barnes / Noble if it catches my eye.

Tamiya White is pretty thin. But if you spray a bit into a cup or something and let it sit a little while it thickens up. Making it super easy to use as a touch up. . Once dry maybe dab a little clear over it ,,,after a few days just rub it out . Ive done this dozens of times with decent results

i'll admit. I'd buy a couple.of those.

For me personally Its pretty simple. Costs and issues with resin - A Modelhaus resin kit was over $100 . A nice builder styrene kit runs on average of $100- $125 give or take depending on the day . ( I just bought one for right at $110 ) I can work with plastic without issues / requirements of a specialty glue or paint or procedures a resin kit requires . For me, the only way I buy a resin kit is if the subject is or never has been avail in plastic ( mid 60s Dodge pickup as an example ) Again this is only MY reasoning behind it. Of course, now that Ive got one. someone will announce an all new tooling of one ( you guys can thanks me later )

One of the best looking Chevrolets ever made

If all you need is a hood and glass, I'll bet Ive got those in the pile .

Interior is done. ( well except I now see I have to put another coat of tan on the pkg shelf area. ) Made my own front bench seat using a rear seat from a second kit . And added a turn signal lever to the steering column and added a auto brake pedal to backside of the dash . Also ground the molded in 4 spd shifter hump off the floor pan ( 1/1 car was push button auto on the dash ) then covered it with a metallic brown embossing powder for carpet

Won this one over the weekend. At about $30 delivered to my door. I'm not going to feel bad when I take it apart to use a basis for a drag car build. I sure cant find a decent 62 Galaxie hardtop annual kit for that kind of money . The stock wheel and tires I need for one of my convertible annuals

I'll bet I know by who , Initials are JH ? If so your not the only ones they've copied . Once I found out they were selling copies of others decals , I quit buying from him. And I'm told the quality is not all that good

Sadly that's the risk one takes when they send it out the door. Chances are somewhere , someone is going to make a copy of it at some point in time. My personal opinion is once ModelHaus has closed there doors for good. Chances are this will happen more and more Unless its copy-righted in some way , My gut feeling is there's not much can be done to prevent it or seek punitive damages once its done . Best , maybe only course of action IMO is if the culprit if found out , make the hobby aware of it.

I think he is right,,,,,,Sure looks likes one of these. If I had to guess, my bet is on the yellow one

I'm a member of a vintage drag car group on Facebook. I asked on there and the reply I got is "Power by Ford" on front fender, M&H Racemaster tire is the round one.

End of last week. my recent purchase arrived. Bought it off a facebook buddy of mine A really clean Johan 1960 Chrysler New Yorker hardtop. Missing just one wheel hubcap .

I for one am waiting patiently for the Butch Leal 65 Plymouth

Thanks, since this pic was taken, I realized the seat back need to be 2 separate portions. . Ive since sliced it down the center of the back rest portion to look like 2 individual sections and touched up the paint. Much better. Chrome pens I bought both the 1mm and 2 mm pens on Amazon thru Graff Limited , one was 9.95 and the other was 10.95 . Try them, for things like interior door handles and steering wheel spokes / horn rings they are perfect .

WOW,,, That is one cooling looking rack, and its on wheels to move it around. Someone used the head to come up with that one

Snake, I'll throw this out there. I have one of these as a parts kit. ( for some reason there's no body in it ) I can look tomorrow and see of the bumpers are in there. If they are, just say the word and they're yours . Actually I'll send you the whole box and you can do with it as you want. ( I assure you,,,,I will never do anything with it, as I don't do 1.24th scale . And I have an original MPC 1971 Cuda builder )

I mean no offense. But just HOW would a seller go about proving you cant afford them . Sorry, but that's a whole nuther ball of wax most sellers don't want to get into , myself included . I know this is a different situation but it gets my point across. A few years ago I was riding shotgun with a friend of mine who owns his own business. We pulled up to a stop light and this guy was standing there with one of these signs ' Will work for food - god bless ' My buddy rolls the window down in his truck the guy walks over. expecting a handout. My buddy hands him his business card told him he was hiring and could use a few laborers ( He does concrete work ) .Told the guy he would start out at $10 hr. Guy hands his card back to him and says (and I quote ) " I dont want your job." and walks away. Guy was there strictly for a tax free money handout and nothing more. 100% true story Sad part is there are probably people in these situations that actually need help and are willing / would prefer to work as opposed to a handout . But that day put a real bad taste in my mouth. Wise man told me long ago, Don't work for your money, make your money work for you . Words I try to live by everyday .

Expect pennies on the dollar unless you have a BOATLOAD of rare vintage kits . Don't be surprised when a dealer offers you 50% or less of what the kits seems to sell for , they are into it to make money plain and simple. I'm a member of a couple different Facebook model sell groups , and Ive been selling off a lot of extras, duplicates and / or kits I've just plain lost interest to build , and none that's super hard to find . My average is about $15 ea. Ive found that if any more then that they don't move . And 90% of mine are still sealed kits. ,,at the very least sealed inside . If its not complete, its $10 or less Ive been into models a long time, and a lot of the kits I have were bought when they averaged less than $7 or $8 ea. some I have still price labels at $4.99