gtx6970

The comment ' I have not done a piece by piece inventory ' may hold it back from top dollar . It would me. I would like to have one of these, ( actually would prefer a 65 ) But if it stays under $200, I may sneak in at the end ,,, might ,,,,,

In all honesty. Resin doesnt really interest me. BUT. I could get serious about a 1970 Chrysler 300. Think Hurst 300. And maybe even a 1970 Plymouth Fury GT

My guess. Between 250 and 300 .

Ha. See there. I can't even spell it Lol

Sorry dude. About the most help I'll be is how to spell 442. Im a diehard Mopar guy.

Wheres the fun in that.......LOL. for the time being...im living vicariously through you bro. I havent even built a bench yet. Yet alone work on a model in over a year...closer to 2 now since the move to AZ.

In case you want another detail. That little hump on the drivers side of the bell housing is the clutch rod linkage location. Black rubber boot with a sliver plated arm sticking out the center of said boot

The past few weeks I managed to pick up some parts for several old annuals, ( top boots, wheel covers and some re-chromed bumpers for several kits stashed away ) Also, I have a soft spot the early cars. So I just couldn't resist this one, a new in box Danbury Mint 1934 HISPANO SUIZA J12 ,especially for just $30

Dude, you scored in a HUGE Way

That was pretty corny, but really cool. ps, I noticed no Mopar cars there. Hmmmmmmm.? Although the only Mopar muscle car avail in 1966 would have been a Hemi car. and I have my doubts the 396 Chevelle would have come out on top then And yes, she would do just fine

My 2cents. Your not trying to build replica stock. So all bets are off.....build it the way you like. My gut tells me its going to be killer either way

Tan COIL ? Never on a mopar. They're always black ( lettering color on said coil is usually a light green, but some have been found with yellow lettering) That said; Tan dist caps started showing up 1966, MAYBE ,,,,just MAYBE very late 1965. But by part number the tan cap arrived in 1966 Distributor itself is black body if dual point ignition system. bare aluminum body if single point system Dual point dist body shown Single point dist body with correct tan cap Correct ignition coil

Ive found a good chair is paramount. And i will stand from time to time as well. Also. Ive found. Get up once in a while and walk around or stretch . It helps wonders

I for one am extremely surprised this one hasnt already materialized it would be a very minor update , basically nothing but the body and grille

It was relisted and sold. https://www.ebay.com/itm/51-year-old-MPC-1968-Dodge-Coronet-R-T-3in1-100-amp-unbuilt-/153609127878?item=153609127878&ViewItem=&nma=true&si=B4yAk995APH5l86CNrW7rIGITWw%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Stock street hemi has 2 carter afb's mounted inline

Several years ago.i was told There were 3 different orange 1964-65 Race hemi. 1966-67 street hemi And 1968-71 street hemi. From what i remember...was told there was VERY little difference between 66/67 color versus later version. I personally can't verify or deny them. Just never seen it myself. Mopar burnt orange exterior paint is FK5 . It was never avail as an engine color .

No burnt orange engine color of any year.

Got to see the 1/1 several years ago . Built one then and still have it. Its actually the one that actually started my affair for the revel Thunderbolt kit many years ago. ( currently have 6 finished with maybe about half dozen to go )

As far as guys parting out kits. I could care less. I need parts not more kits . So let them have at it. I buy model parts all the time ( got several items in this week actually for maybe 6 or 7 different annuals builders I have ) . There is one seller I will never buy from again , I dont care what he has, how bad I need it or or how cheap it is.

Steve, I agree with you but considering a clean builtup 68 Coronet hardtop will EASILY pull over $100, And I do mean easily. Ive seen the unbuilt versions pulling anywhere from $350 to as high as $500 without to much trouble. ( not from me btw ) . I dont think I've ever seen one break $1000 before though. I personally will NOT buy sealed vintage kits unless I can hold it in my hand 1st. Even then I will open it before walking away . Just to make sure whats IN the box is the same as whats ON the box. Ive heard far to many horror stories where the buyer got nothing but scrapes in a so called sealed box. Ive got 1 ea of the 68 and 69 Coronet hardtops , 1 of the 69 convertibles and at least 2 1968 convertibles. Best I can remember the cheapest one got me for about $75 , most expensive one is my 68 hardtop and I think I paid about $120 for it . All stock nothing ever painted builder but was missing the stock ft seats ( since found with many many thanks to Ron Hamilton btw ) I personally paid a guy $500 for a sealed 1968 Color ME Gone Charger funnycar, then opened it in front of the guy . I thought he was going to have a heart attack right there when I split the cellophane. Ive since sold it btw and got my money back out of it with no problem, ( went to China )

Tape was used on kits on 1958 boxes i have. Same for some I have as new as 1962 or 63 ...I can ck some boxes i still have . I dont think sealed with cellophane started till approx 1965 ...maybe 66 ?

I've got a few sets of the Fireball carbs. NO kit piece even comes close ,,NONE

Then get on it , we ain't got all day

I think its kool, not cool enough I would even consider owning it but I can certainly appreciate the work to make it from the ground up its about as bizarre and unique as one can get IMO