MAGNUM4342

Ken is correct. That's one of the better HEMI's available right now. The intake is fairly easy to scratch build too. Here's a shot of the engine bay. It's the 1971 car and a replica but it's correct almost to the last bolt for both years. I'm adding a resin intake and rear bumper to your package. I didn't make the PO today because Jacen came home.

Thank you for the kind words. I started modeling at age five and am 47 now so i've tried just about everything there is to try and i'm still discovering new tricks. I recently moved to an area where there are also no hobby shops except about a hundred miles away. even at that I don't consider Hobby Lobby a hobby shop, so I too do my purchasing most often at Crafts 2000. Feel free to message me anytime.

I use the same clear coats that I use for other paints. They do take about three thin coats of gloss to get a shine since they will soak up some clear if not properly sanded smooth, kinda like primers will. You can "heat set" them but there's really no point. All that does is make them dry in two minutes instead of five. I love how folks jump in just to bash. I don't know what business it is of anyone elses if you want to use cheaper paints. Yes, most folks use them primarily for small details and interiors, but sometimes there's a specific color that you want to use on a body and it just happens to be in those styles of paints. I use alot of them because i'm disabled and on a tight budget so I save where I can on supplies so I can afford more kits. I've used Future, Krylon Krystal Kleer, Testors and a host of other clears and never had an issue. P.S. Cadillac Pat- If you had read all of what I said you would know why I suggested clear between colors. I'll expand on it for you. Like neon paints, these paints are soft and will tear or pull away easily when unmasking them. To avoid this, a quick clear coat and scoring of the edge of the mask will give you a clean edge without tearing the paint.

A 43 on each side and a "Petty Enterprises" decal in the center. I thought I had a better shot but rear end views aren't real popular in racing. (Something about not being out front )

I use them all the time. The main caveats are that they need to be thinned (of course that makes them last alot longer) a bit more than the average paint, and you need to be close to the subject. These paints dry lightning fast. Most of them will also need a clear coat between colors on multi color jobs because they can peel easily, kinda like neons.

WoW! Sweeeeeet lookin car! I can't think of a clearcoat that would work over both paints. Future would but I don't know what it would do optically to the mettalic gold. This is a toughie. Createx would work but you need an airbrush. This is definitely a stumper.

They are there. Maybe not the best pics. I'll try to find some better ones. Starting at Michigan Richard began running Chargers, but he did not switch so much as add it to the stable. In 1969 Richard wanted to switch to the Charger but was told no. He went right across the street to Ford and signed on to drive Torinos. The boys at Plymouth lost thier minds over this. They created the Superbird to lure him back to Plymouth. Richard was relatively happy with the cars he was running but still wanted to move to the Charger. In 1972 with teammate Buddy Baker running Dodges, the move was fairly seamless. He finished out the '72 season running the Dodges AND the Roadrunners. Richard did not like the '73 style Roadrunner and switched to Dodge full time in 1973.

And yet no mention of the other companies, just an etc. You see now how that can be misleading? None of those other companies operates the same as revell. I find your blanket terming of all kit companies to be in poor taste. I'll waste no more of my time on you. Nuff said!

Then why mention them when they have nothing to do with Revell?

Revell and Round2 are completely different animals. I wish people would stop grouping them together. Revell has monogram and a few old Aurora molds. ROUND2 is AMT,MPC, Polar Lights (Aurora). Revell DOES NOT own Round2.

I built one of these back when they first came out, but I hated the decals and trying to match them to a paint. At the time Kyle was running for STP/UNO, so I combined the decals from the Baker UNO kit and built his #1 car. I used to have some pics of me presenting the build to him at the 1984 fan club convention. Adam was four at the time and tried his best to get his little hands on it. Nice build on that one Shafer.

Hang tight on the resin. I'm trying to figure out a way to do decals for them now.

That's what I get for going by the style of car rather than the paint scheme! Sorry for causing confusion.

If it's an all Petty blue car it's most likely the 1964 Belvedere or the 1969 Torino. There are several schools of thought on the Superbird, which Plymouth devised to lure Richard back from the Ford camp after an argument he had with them over his desire to race the Charger Daytona. Basically there's two choices here. There's the Jo-Han kit, which most folks feel has the more accurate body but is lacking in the chassis department. Most builders will use the body from the Jo-Han kit and a chassis from the AMT 1968 Roadrunner kit. Then theres the Revell kit. It's considered a half decent replica but is a full street car with a molded in vinyl roof that needs removal. Cage, interior, engine and chassis details need to be sourced. Even so, up against the venerable Jo-Han kit it's the more economical solution. With the Revell body (reworked) and a Monogram NASCAR Ford chassis and a Hemi engine a fairly convincing stocker can be built, although deletion of some of the roll cages components is necessary.

...And my list is...

No problem at all. Of course i'm much more versed in Petty cars (as if you couldn't tell from my avatar ) so if you ever need any info on those...i'm your go to guy! Good luck with the auction.

No problem. My bad for thinking you had it on hand. The Monte aerocoupe was introduced the same year as the Pontiac 2+2 aerocoupe. Unfortunately noone ever released the Pont in a kit except resin. Other kits with this body are the Tim Richmond and stock street. I believe there was also a Wrangler version but i'm not sure.

1986. It says so on the side panel of the box.

A better solution would be to give them a good coat of gloss paint and let it cure about a week. Otherwise the wheels will have the rough texture of the primer. I know Jacen (Futurabat) has cast alot of painted items with no problems.

"Seriously honey...you don't hear that rattle?"

By the way Clyde, I now have the wheels Jacen was supposed to send you. I'll have them in the mail monday. As for the rear bumper, that's not so tricky. You could go with plastic and putty to build up the proper taillight housings and file them to shape, but personally I would say lay hands on the MPC unit. Since the MPC is 1/25th and the Revell you are using is 1/24th the MPC unit will be slightly too narrow. Just cut it down the center, top to bottom and use sheet plastic to widen it. Add enough sheet plastic to get it to match up flush with the fenders and the splash panel should line right up. I can provide the bumper with the wheels if you want. In fact, I can send you two resin bumpers. Just cut them slightly off center to get the width you need and glue the two parts back together. I was going to mention the fenderwells and core support but I see you've removed them. These cars all exhausted both pipes out the driver's side. Other details you might consider, is the checkerboard pattern Richard's seat had, and the peace symbol head rest on the rollbar. STP had a car in the 1971 Daytona piloted by "Fast Freddy" Lorenzen. A Ray Nichols prepared car. (also with the power bulge hood)

Incorrect. Both the 1971 and '72 STP Roadrunner ran the power bulge hood. Petty did run a couple races with the all flat hood, but plymouth wanted him to use these hoods exclusively. If people saw the winning car with one they would want the option on thier car. It goes along with the whole "win on sunday/ sell on monday" thinking. There were even a couple Chargers that ran with the stock hood, until Dodge stepped in and made him run the power bulge hoods.

Just found this site, advertising a Mirada from Hendrix resins- http://www.resinreal...STARModels.html and the SMH version- http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-RSetzer/-strse-Decals-and-Resins-cln-SMH-Resins/searchpath/187694982/start/49/total/65/Categories.bok

He meant CHEVELLE Superwagon.

Almost every craft store sells clear sheet plastic in sheets around 2 foot by three. Enough for a couple dozen models. Considering the thickness and blurriness of most kit windows i'm kind of confused as to why more folks don't go this route.