Miatatom

Good luck with the Createx products. I've bought up several and am trying them as well. I sprayed some Wicked Blue mixed with Createx 4030 balancing clear and Createx 4012 (W500) reducer. It laid down and leveled nicely. I wasn't trying for a perfect paint job, just wanted to see how it sprayed. I highly recommend using the 4030 and 4012 (W500). There are several videos on Youtube that really helped me. I highly recommend them because Createx is definitely a different animal. I've read here that the black and white are especially hard to spray but then I don't know if they were using the Createx balancing clear and reducer. I've tried using acrylics with home made reducers and the had poor to bad results. I hope to spray a full car this week and I'll start a thread about the paint then.

Thanks for the suggestion, Aaron. I'm not sure where I could find something like that. Right now, I've started using the gloves I was using originally. They're made for vets for birthing cows. Yes, they come up to your shoulders! I tape them to the arm hole flanges, which are 5" PVC plumbing pieces and then put a hose clamp over that to prevent them coming loose or tearing. I used to "put them on" each time and would inevitably forget something or need to adjust the air pressure and would have to pull them off. A hassle. I've started cutting the glove portion off and then put a rubber band around each wrist to seal it off. Works pretty good but I'm always looking for the better tool or set up.

+3 What they said!

Sounds like you've found a good deal. Great! Yes, Dr Cranky is a regular here and has a lot of experience and model making knowledge.

That's really looking great! I've got the 93 Lola T93 Ford snap. Is that the same one. Haven't opened it yet.

I'm working on that kit now. Thank you.

That price at HL is a little high even after the coupon. They can be had for around $40, the last time I checked. It would pay to be patient and look around. You won't be sorry you bought a H.

Tyler, the reason I mentioned an air brush, the Paasche H, was that I saw you were going to purchase a relatively expensive and sophisticated air brush. If you are a beginner, I suggest the Paasche because of it's simplicity of deign, ease of use, durability and simple cleaning. I'd think about that purchase and ask/look around the board. There was just a thread about the Paasche H. It a good evaluation by many members. Personally, I started with a dual action Badger Patriot 105. A fairly precision A/B useful for T shirts and detail painting of small figures but not large surface areas like model car bodies. While I did learn to use it relatively well a couple of times, I never felt like I had really figured out how to use it correctly all the time. It's kinda like getting in a race car for the first time and trying to stay up with the really fast guys on the first lap. You can't do it. You'll end up making a rookie mistake and crashing. Trust me, I know. Turn 7 at Road Atlanta and several model cars attest to that analogy with respect to both 1 : 1 and numerous model cars. PS I spray acrylics on my interiors and chassis and cover with clear or dull coat.

Paasche H

Don't ever use electrical tape. It leaves a nasty residue. I like 3M thin line auto tape. It is a little thick though but I've learned to use it and minimize edge creation.

Badger paint stirrer.

Sounds like you didn't put much orange down or really did a lot of sanding. Actually 4000 sounds like a polishing cloth. Surely, you weren't using 400?

This is the trio that I'm "working on". Here's the McLaren. The other two are "partially assembled".

Stepped out of that little ride in 2003 at Barber Motorsports Park and sold it 3 months later. It was a choice of race or retire. I'd raced but never retired so I chose retirement. At 59, with a lot of motorcycle racing in the 70s and then sports cars in the 90s and 00s, I figure I'd had my fun so I quit before I hurt myself or someone else. I've got the SMER double kit with the Talbot-Lago and Alfa Romeo that I'll get to someday.

I like the Scribr R from RB Production. http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_110&products_id=329

Not easy kits to build. I've finished the McLaren and have stalled out on the other two. I really want to finish them someday. Good luck with yours.

A pound of microballoons!

Since I first built my booth, I've made several changes. The first picture is the original booth. The plastic hanging down are gloves. I've eliminated them and added a bunch more light. OK, you young-in's go ahead and laugh. Yes, that's four 150 watt outdoor lights, 2 floods and 2 spots. Some day, you'll understand. I've enlarged the entry door quite a bit and have a 175 cfm bilge blower ordered to replace the 130 cfm. It worked OK but I want to figure a way to make more of a seal where my arms fit through the front. I'd thought about an old inner tube or something like that. Suggestions?

I was shopping the aisles of eBay and found this stuff. Only 7 reviews but they're all good. Has anyone tried this stuff? Any good?

That's the method that I'm trying to perfect. Sort of a HVLP system.

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm going to build a car that I built back in the late 50s. It's going to take a fair amount of modifications because it's the combination of two cars, or parts from them. to build one car.

I was going to mention this stuff. I have a roll and thought about trying it.

Thanks for the compliments, Jeff. Since I work in the basement and spray lacquers a lot, I had to build something to get the fumes out and provide some sort of dust control. No method is perfect but this booth helps.

Thanks for the response, Snake. Any tips about corners? Some are almost square while others are rounded.

So, no one knows how to do this?