Miatatom

I visited Puerto Rico in 1964 and 65 while in the Navy. It was another jewel in the Caribbean. I loved all the islands in that area. I hope it becomes that jewel again soon.

I use the Novus products. They work for me. Others use Meguiars products.

Well, this is a cool concept! Who's going to build it? http://autoweek.com/article/sema-show/meet-ghost-concept-car-ray-evernham-designed-scratch

I'm going to try the Createx stuff because of price and local availability. HL 40% off coupons make it worth a try. I'll post what I discover.

Down through the ages, great minds have contemplated this riddle. It is one one. Saying one oneth means 1 is a fraction of itself. Now I may be a fraction of the man I used to be but this is math. It's one one. Case closed.

Try it on some spare styrene with and without heat and see what effect it has. Let us know how it comes out.

My opinion on Chris's videos is that they are out of date and contain some info (using a Future substitute) that is incorrect. He has some good info but I wish he'd update his stuff. With that said, I've never had much luck with craft acrylics on bodies. Others have. I use them on interiors and chassis parts. That's why I'm going to give the Wicked paints a try on some bodies.

From what I've read, Createx paints can be tricky. I have some but haven't tried them yet. I've read that the Createx white and black are really hard to work with. The Wicked colors are supposed to be easier. I wash all car bodies with Comet and a brush to thoroughly scuff the shine off everything. Rinse and dry thoroughly, then prime. You should also explain what equipment you are using for more detailed help.

Go to the Michael's website and sign up for their newsletters. They have 40% off coupons every week like HL.

I spray with a Paasche H and usually use the #5 needle (largest) for most applications.

I think you have the answer. Weight is the biggest issue.

Out of the can or airbrushed?

Also known as Paint Shop Clear. Lots of discussion about how good it is but not a lot about equipment, settings and technique. I've only sprayed it once and it went on fairly smooth. I use a Paasche H with the #3 needle and shot it, unthinned, at around 22 PSI. What are you guys that are using this clear doing, such as air pressure, number of dry and wet coats, respray time, etc.?

Great work. I love that color!

No, thanks.

I have a Revell 39 Chevy Sedan Delivery.

As always, Jurgen, you have done a great job. You have much more patience and persistence than I do.

Could you post a pic or two?

+1

One of the tips I read on here about taking photos of model cars was to get down on the models level. IOW, don't shoot all the pics from above the cars belt line. Take some pics outside too. Lots of light there except next Monday around 2:30 here in east Tennessee.

It'll probably show up in your mail.

Great save!

A good effort at a first one, Aiden. Nice detailing and good decal work. Clean build with no blemishes, finger prints or glue noticeable. I'm still working on perfecting some of those things myself. To make that model pop, you really need to work on the orange peel in the paint. Not saying you need to be able to put down a perfect paint job right away. I still can't. Learning to color sand the paint and use a polishing system will really improve the finish. Watch some Youtube videos or do a search here on the forum for color sanding and polishing paint. It's really easy when you learn. Here's a link on how to search the forum. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/74605-a-better-way-to-search-this-site/

91% isopropyl alcohol removed it. Never tried it with resin.

You need to use a GM product to make it more realistic.