Miatatom

Been there, done that. Yes, it is really hard to fill and hide those scratches, all the while trying to keep stuff out of the panel line. Here's what I found that works for me. http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_110&products_id=329

What are the pros and cons of Google?

I'd offer $1 /kit plus shipping. The shipping will be the most expensive part of the deal.

Dust has to be getting in some way. Where is the room? Basement or an area with carpet? Mine is in the basement and I have the ceiling and insulation covered with plastic. Do you change the HVAC filters often enough? If you're not sure about the air purifier, it may be another source of dust. To really figure out what the issues are, we'd need more information to get specific.

You win thi You win this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You've got to share some video/audio on Youtube.

Nice clean work! I've got the Revell version in my stash. I wonder if it's as easy to build as you describe the Monogram?

+1! Great job!

Our local Michaels inventory is pretty pathetic. I buy most of my kits on line.

I thought you were talking about making plastic clear. Never mind.

No, BTD, I've still got all 10 of them but at 73, dexterity and just generally shaky hands make it hard to use pin vices. I've found that the drill from Harbor Freight is a relatively light, easy to use piece. And, as I originally stated, the feel on the trigger is really nice and graduated. Makes pinning tiny pieces really easy. That was the big reason but scuffing slicks and race tires is also easy to do in a chuck I made to hold tires.

So many models, so little time! All is good here.

After use, I cover the bottle with Glad Press and Seal and then put the cap on.

If you're talking about a scratch that needs to be polished out, Novus is good. If the plastic isn't scratched and you're just wanting the plastic to look clearer, dip the parts in Future and wick off the excess at the corners with a paper towel or napkin.

Great! I was already moving my photos to Google. This makes everything better!

Great job! I like the color.

It sure hasn't taken you long to get the hang of it again. Great looking Cobra! Keep up the good work.

Good info to know. Thanks!

Great job! I love those 56s.

Color choice can be challenging but most colors can be had from http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/

Yes, lacquer thinner is an excellent thinner for enamels. I have only one suggestion. Lacquer. I started with enamels but I don't use them for anything any longer. But, that's just me.

Everyone has opinions so I'll give mine. I'm not so keen on Tamiya tape. I've done tests using several types of tape. Most of them work well. The one issue I have with Tamiya is that if you leave it on for a while (I tested them all for 24 hours), you might get some residue from the tape. I use yellow Frog tape. No residue. I don't typically leave tape on that long but sometimes, if there's a lot of taping to do, it might be on for more than 12 hours, but that's just me and my methods. Like Snake, I don't use the "factory edge" either. I have a small mirror that I lay strips on and cut clean edges with a scalpel. I also like 3M Fineline tape for masking complex pieces. If you use 3M, you have to pay attention to your spraying as it is a little thick so it's easy to pile paint up at the edge of the tape.

I agree with Snake. Polishing will make the paint look like a million but the mold lines will be even more noticeable. Also like Snake said, yes, you'll probably sand/polish through the paint there too. I've stripped quite a few bodies in my time and will probably do so again. You really did a great job of laying the paint down for a first timer. Attention to detail with good body prep will make you a great builder.

I bet my lap times at Road Atlanta are quicker.

I don't have one but these look handy. I'll be interested to see other answers since I have a couple of PE projects. http://www.paragrafix.biz/product_detail.asp?PPartNum=pft-5