Rider Posted April 21, 2019 Posted April 21, 2019 9 hours ago, NOBLNG said: I have read on here that 105F is OK and will not damage styrene, so I set it at either 95 to warm the paint or 105 to dry it. I have never checked it for accuracy, but have not melted anything yet. Thanks man.
Dave G. Posted April 27, 2019 Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) On 4/21/2019 at 9:23 AM, Rider said: Thanks man. It should be fine. I've gone to 110f and typically do 108 or 109 in an air fryer set on dehydrate. Not sure about the rig posted on but others seem good with 105. The air fryer is very accurate so even if your rig is off a bit I doubt it's going over 110.... Edited April 27, 2019 by Dave G.
Rider Posted April 27, 2019 Posted April 27, 2019 1 hour ago, Dave G. said: It should be fine. I've gone to 110f and typically do 108 or 109 in an air fryer set on dehydrate. Not sure about the rig posted on but others seem good with 105. The air fryer is very accurate so even if your rig is off a bit I doubt it's going over 110.... Thanks for taking the time to post this. I have an alterior motive to find out what temp works so I could make my own out of a 12" sono tube a 100w bulb, a dimmer switch and a little variable speed fan. Those things are not cheap, but I am.
Dave G. Posted April 27, 2019 Posted April 27, 2019 20 minutes ago, Rider said: Thanks for taking the time to post this. I have an alterior motive to find out what temp works so I could make my own out of a 12" sono tube a 100w bulb, a dimmer switch and a little variable speed fan. Those things are not cheap, but I am. Interesting. A guy over in the Fine Scale Modeler forum uses a plastic storage bin with a light bulb in it. I think it's a 60w bulb. He drilled a few air holes and says it works well. But I think circulating air is key personally.
Rider Posted April 27, 2019 Posted April 27, 2019 1 minute ago, Dave G. said: Interesting. A guy over in the Fine Scale Modeler forum uses a plastic storage bin with a light bulb in it. I think it's a 60w bulb. He drilled a few air holes and says it works well. But I think circulating air is key personally. I've done it in the past with a cheap from China off evilBay desk/office space heater, and plastic shoe boxes. The bearings went on it in about a month. Also had one about 10yrs ago with one of those tiny electric wall mounted space heaters flowing into an old camp oven. The kind meant to sit over coals. Worked great until we moved and my wife chucked it all out thinking it was scrap metal, ugh. My fault for not labelling it. It really was an awesome little set up. Being cheap, I will figure out something. I recently had a big one in my hands at a the Goodwill down in Sedona for 10$. Had to leave it there, we were van camping, so not enough room for it, grrr. Lol.
retired & glad Posted June 6, 2019 Posted June 6, 2019 (edited) I've used a paint dryer ( food dehydrator ) for years and the first one was given to me from a friend. I made a switch box to control the fan and heating element. I used a double gang electrical box to mount a receptacle and a light dimmer. The dimmer is used for the heat only. It finally gave up the ship and I threw it in the dump. I was at a used thrift store yesterday and they had what looked like a fairly new one for $20. I plugged it in before buying it and the fan made a terrible noise. Also the heat didn't work through the thermostat. I was hoping the element wasn't burnt out so I bought it for $5.00 and hoped I could fix it. Got it home and took it apart and I shimmed the fan motor because the fan blades was hitting the frame. Fixed that problem. Now the heat. After making sure the element was working, I used a jumper across the high limit fuse and the element worked. So, I disconnected the wire to the fuse and ran it straight to the element. Fixed that problem. Now with it, I can use the built in thermostat to control the high limit and use the dimmer switch to control the temp. I let it heat and run for an hour and adjusted the dimmer for 102 degrees. Works great now. I am an old retired electrician and electronics buff so it was a very easy job to do for me. I have loads of enamel paint I've kept over the years to do the details with and I'm glad I was able to remake the dryer again. Edited June 6, 2019 by retired & glad
peteski Posted June 10, 2019 Posted June 10, 2019 Hmm, if you are electrician and electronics buff then you are well aware that a fuse is there for a reason. If it blew, then something is not right with the circuit it is protecting. Bypassing it doesn't seem like a smart idea to me.
retired & glad Posted June 10, 2019 Posted June 10, 2019 3 hours ago, peteski said: Hmm, if you are electrician and electronics buff then you are well aware that a fuse is there for a reason. If it blew, then something is not right with the circuit it is protecting. Bypassing it doesn't seem like a smart idea to me. Thanks Peter for the concern. Yep, safety has always been on my mind when messing with circuits. ( History )=== I started in the electrical trade in 1969. Got into Ham radio in the early 70's and have operated and built more than I can remember numerous transmitters, receivers, and lots of accessories for them. Most worked but had a few things that didn't work. In the electrical end, I have been a employee, contractor, and an estimator over this time period. Now to the safety of this project. When I found it at the thrift store I thought it was a new one. It still had the plastic cap over the plug as shipped. It looked like it had never been used. When I plugged it in there, the motor made a terrible sound and the heat didn't work. I got it real cheap and had a good idea and hoped I could fix it. When I got it home, I took it apart and found the fan blades was hitting the frame, so I shimmed the motor and that cured that problem. Checked the heater and found the inline series fuse was bad. It is a one time fuse about the size of a small resistor. No markings on it for the temp. limit. I found the thermostat wires were wrapped around the thermostat and looked like it could have caused the therm. to not operate right. The heater winding's looked new and not burnt into. So, I bypassed the fuse and the heater works. I then replace the power cord with the unit I made years ago for another one that quit working because of the motor bearings finally wore out. If it had been used, then the fan intake could have been blocked since the intake is on the bottom and could have restricted the air flow. I hooked up the external dimmer from the last one and adjusted the voltage for 102 degrees and that keeps it at a comfortable temp. After unwrapping the wires from around the internal thermostat, I played with the internal thermostat all day to make sure it was working OK. So I have it set up to use the dimmer control to set the temp. and the internal therm. to use as a higher limit. I keep a metal thermometer in the top lid and can check on it often. I'm never that far away from the unit and I also have a fire extinguisher close by also. The one I had before finally gave up the ship because of motor bearings worn out. I've been using this one for the last few days and have let it operate about all day to dry some enamel paint on some parts on a kit I am working on. I appreciate the concern on this and I think it will be OK. If not, the fire station is just a few blocks from me. LOL
89AKurt Posted June 19, 2019 Posted June 19, 2019 My high-tech facility. Helps to live in Arizona to begin with. But I would not do this during the summer, "it's a dry heat" is not to be taken lightly.
retired & glad Posted June 19, 2019 Posted June 19, 2019 20 minutes ago, 89AKurt said: My high-tech facility. Helps to live in Arizona to begin with. But I would not do this during the summer, "it's a dry heat" is not to be taken lightly. That sure looks like a hot place. If that is the clutch and brake pedals, I like the homebrew way of it. The heat sure has played havoc with the dash.
89AKurt Posted June 19, 2019 Posted June 19, 2019 (edited) 13 minutes ago, retired & glad said: That sure looks like a hot place. If that is the clutch and brake pedals, I like the homebrew way of it. The heat sure has played havoc with the dash. The heater control lever was broken, so removed the whole unit, will get a repo someday. So those blocks are connected to the heater valve cable. It's a 51 year old pickup, sunbaked for sure. Edited June 19, 2019 by 89AKurt added link to Chevy forum
DonaldBrent Posted June 27, 2019 Posted June 27, 2019 (edited) Quick question re: dehydrators... I'm assuming most employ some sort of fan that draws in air to heat and circulate around the drying chamber. What I can't see (at least in the models I've looked at in online pictures) is any kind of filtering going on. Does the outside air being drawn in by the fan get filtered or are we potentially pulling in all matter of dust, dog hair and other nasties. I live in AZ and dust is everywhere here... so that's a concern. I've yet to start my first project (still setting up my work area) but I was planning on just covering the model with a plastic tub or something similar to keep dust particles from settling on the body while it's drying. Dehydrators seem like a neat way to speed up the drying process from what I've read but dust is a bigger enemy than time for me. Don Edited June 27, 2019 by DonaldBrent
peteski Posted July 1, 2019 Posted July 1, 2019 On 6/27/2019 at 12:16 PM, DonaldBrent said: Quick question re: dehydrators... I'm assuming most employ some sort of fan that draws in air to heat and circulate around the drying chamber. What I can't see (at least in the models I've looked at in online pictures) is any kind of filtering going on. Does the outside air being drawn in by the fan get filtered or are we potentially pulling in all matter of dust, dog hair and other nasties. I live in AZ and dust is everywhere here... so that's a concern. I've yet to start my first project (still setting up my work area) but I was planning on just covering the model with a plastic tub or something similar to keep dust particles from settling on the body while it's drying. Dehydrators seem like a neat way to speed up the drying process from what I've read but dust is a bigger enemy than time for me. Don My dehydrator is much simpler. No fans, no thermostats. Just a 40W heating element on the bottom, and air slots on the top and bottom with adjustable shutters. It moves air by natural convection (warm air raises). The air circulation is basically imperceivable, but it does occur. The temperature can be somewhat controlled by adjusting the shutters. I keep it around 110 deg. F. I suspect that even the dehydrators with fans to force air circulation move very little air.
Rocking Rodney Rat Posted August 9, 2019 Posted August 9, 2019 I've probably said this before and it may have been addressed in this thread: if you are using resin parts, set the temp at the lowest setting, resin is a lot softer than styrene and will warp quickly under heat....I discovered this the hard way.... -RRR
Super28 Posted August 18, 2019 Posted August 18, 2019 OK. I.m sorry. I can't read all 9 pages to find out if someone already answer my question. So, I live in Florida where the humidity is just plain ridiculous. I paint in a detached garage. My question is, if I paint a model in this high humidity then put it in a dehydrator will that save the paint or am I screwed already before I get it into it? I need to find a cure for this problem. Appreciate all the help I can get
Shambles Posted October 14, 2019 Posted October 14, 2019 Hi Terry. I'm in The Villages and have always lived in the south, so I know about humidity! After trying some food dehydrators, I pulled the trigger on this, and ain't regretted it: https://www.micromark.com/Dr.-Dry-Booth
Joe Handley Posted October 21, 2019 Posted October 21, 2019 (edited) Welp, I just broke down and ordered one of these with a package of the extra nesting trays, should be in on Tuesday! https://www.walmart.com/ip/Presto-Dehydro-Digital-Electric-Food-Dehydrator/45074199 Quick edit, got a notification that it arrived today! Edited October 22, 2019 by Joe Handley
NOBLNG Posted October 26, 2019 Posted October 26, 2019 I had originally made the round extensions for my cheapo food dehydrator but found it awkward to reach down into, especially when placing a lot of parts inside. I was always worried that I would bump and smear my fresh paint job. So for the price of a box of donuts, I went to my old workplace and bent up this metal box. The plexiglass cover cost me $30 and then I went and cracked it with the first aluminum rivet (3/16 was too big, 1/8 was OK). I could have made the lid from metal or plywood but I like to watch my paint dry (it's not as boring as people claim). I have this in the garage where I create a lot of dust and smoke at times so I still want to wrap the bottom somehow with filter media to keep from sucking in contaminants.
Dave Van Posted October 26, 2019 Posted October 26, 2019 I bought my dehydrator for $9 at Big Lots in the early 1990's. Cheap unit, plastic, no controls.......trays and a plug. Best buy I ever made after 25+ years of use. I even have a back up unit that my folks had so I'm set.
Joe Handley Posted November 1, 2019 Posted November 1, 2019 I have a '59,Rambler Wagon in black, '56 Plymouth sedan in primer grey, and inassembled Turbine Car promo in white, all of which I bought from Okey in the last few years at the Dupage show, would those be Ok to put in a dehydrator at the lowest setting?
NOBLNG Posted February 24, 2020 Posted February 24, 2020 I do all my spray painting in the garage which is far from a dust free sanitary place. So I decided to add an air filter for my dehydrator. It turns out that one from a '75 Chrysler New Yorker is just the right size! I have kept an eye on it for a while to make sure the extra restriction will not cause overheating. It seems to be OK so far.
peteski Posted February 25, 2020 Posted February 25, 2020 That is a really nice paint drying setup! Does that dehydrator have a built-in fan to move the air, or just natural convection? I see that it has a thermostat, so there should be no problem with it overheating (the thermostat will shut off the heating element when the temperature goes above the set temperature).
NOBLNG Posted February 25, 2020 Posted February 25, 2020 15 minutes ago, peteski said: That is a really nice paint drying setup! Does that dehydrator have a built-in fan to move the air, or just natural convection? I see that it has a thermostat, so there should be no problem with it overheating (the thermostat will shut off the heating element when the temperature goes above the set temperature). Thanks! Yes it has a fan in it. It is a cheapo I bought on sale at Canadian Tire. It definitely doesn't move as much air as it did with no filter, but I guess if I had 6 trays stacked up and loaded with jerky...that would be a lot of restriction too.
peteski Posted February 25, 2020 Posted February 25, 2020 1 hour ago, NOBLNG said: Thanks! Yes it has a fan in it. It is a cheapo I bought on sale at Canadian Tire. It definitely doesn't move as much air as it did with no filter, but I guess if I had 6 trays stacked up and loaded with jerky...that would be a lot of restriction too. I use very cheap dehydrator (about 35 years old by now). It has no thermostat and no fan (air moved by natural convection). Temperature is controlled by adjusting the size of open slots in the lid. Works fine for me.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now