Molded in red, after primer red is still bleeding

[youpey]

I have an old ford f150 ranger kit that is molded in red. I am finding that i can still see the red color bleeding through after the primer. I tried 2 coats of primer and i still see it. 

I am using tamiya white primer because it is all i have. 

 

How many coats will i need to do. The model is already thin on details so i dont want to do so much primer that it loses all

 

I plan on painting it blue so i think it should cover it. Do you think it will?  I dont want to paint it red, i dont like red cars/trucks

[Casey]

White primer will never seal in the red color. Use a coat of silver paint (not primer) or a sealer (not a primer) as the first coat.

 

 

Edited February 23, 2021 by Casey

[youpey]

I will try a coat of the silver since i have that here. I spent too much money on kits recently and need a break from spending. worst case i put it back in the box until then. 

 

Alternatively, i could spray it black first, and the blue over the black. It will just be a darker blue right?

[espo]

I would go with Casey's advice. Kits with different colored plastic can be a real problem to block the plastics color from bleeding thru. I used the Silver base color before even primer on a Red Corvette and it worked for me. Maybe, and I haven't tried it myself, but maybe something along the order of an automotive type primer may work.  

[youpey]

Ok ty. I will do the silver as recommended 

 

EDIT

I just sprayed the silver and it looks like its fully covered.  Hopefully it dries smoothly and evenly. I have never been able to get a silver paint job without there being sections darker than others where i either went a bit heavy or an extra pass. The blue i plan to use is metallic so i need that base perfect since i cant sand it. Its why i typically avoid metalic paint

Edited February 23, 2021 by youpey

[espo]

The Silver is used as a sealer of sorts to block the plastic color from bleeding thru. I wouldn't be to concerned  about the color imperfections as you will want to use your normal primer over the Silver before going to any color coats. 

[Plowboy]

4 hours ago, youpey said:

Alternatively, i could spray it black first, and the blue over the black. It will just be a darker blue right?

I did the exact thing to the exact kit many years ago. I sprayed it with flat black. Then a coat of Sapphire Blue. It worked great! It did make the blue darker. But, I actually liked it better.

[youpey]

3 hours ago, espo said:

The Silver is used as a sealer of sorts to block the plastic color from bleeding thru. I wouldn't be to concerned  about the color imperfections as you will want to use your normal primer over the Silver before going to any color coats. 

i sprayed the blue over the silver, and it came out nice. no sign of the red anywhere. i just did a second gloss coat and then i will clear coat it today.  i bought this box that i am painting in, and it is the first time i am not painting in a room, and so far so good, no dust or anything in the paint.  it has a lid that i close after i am done, which keeps the dusties out. two models recently have needed work because of dust or cat hair, and im tired of it. 

 

i have this obsession with paint jobs needing to be perfect. even a single spot annoys me

Edited February 23, 2021 by youpey

[youpey]

16 minutes ago, Plowboy said:

I did the exact thing to the exact kit many years ago. I sprayed it with flat black. Then a coat of Sapphire Blue. It worked great! It did make the blue darker. But, I actually liked it better.

Im actually really happy with the color that it turned out to be. I looks a lot like the ford blue at least as i remember it. 

Once im done with the paint, i will post a picture. Im far away frim being done building, but i can post to show the color. 

[espo]

2 hours ago, youpey said:

i sprayed the blue over the silver, and it came out nice. no sign of the red anywhere. i just did a second gloss coat and then i will clear coat it today.  i bought this box that i am painting in, and it is the first time i am not painting in a room, and so far so good, no dust or anything in the paint.  it has a lid that i close after i am done, which keeps the dusties out. two models recently have needed work because of dust or cat hair, and im tired of it. 

 

i have this obsession with paint jobs needing to be perfect. even a single spot annoys me

Glad your color coats came out to your liking. I also used a big old box from the market for years. I hope you're wearing a mask when you paint. When you can justify the expense you really need to look at a spray booth both for your personal respiratory safety and keeping the odors out of the house. 

[youpey]

5 minutes ago, espo said:

Glad your color coats came out to your liking. I also used a big old box from the market for years. I hope you're wearing a mask when you paint. When you can justify the expense you really need to look at a spray booth both for your personal respiratory safety and keeping the odors out of the house. 

its funny you mentioned that because i was researching it just today.  previously i would paint in the hallway to the outside door, basically holding the model on the tamiya stand, with the door open so the paint would go directly outside. however, i always had some kind of dust, cat hair or whatever in the paint when i did it that way.   i bought this box and found that the whole house smelled after, where i had to open the doors and windows for about 1 hour to get the smell out.

i have a 3m painting mask, but until i got this box, i never really had an issue with the paint smell.  anyway, i primarily use spray paints, and rarely use my airbrush and a lot of the commercial paint booths say not to use flammable paints with them because of the type of motor.   i live in an apartment, so i dont really have enough room for a permanent work spot.  i found in the pinned link above someone that built their own using a motor from granger. i will probably pick that one up and build a paint booth out of the box i got. 

[espo]

2 minutes ago, youpey said:

its funny you mentioned that because i was researching it just today.  previously i would paint in the hallway to the outside door, basically holding the model on the tamiya stand, with the door open so the paint would go directly outside. however, i always had some kind of dust, cat hair or whatever in the paint when i did it that way.   i bought this box and found that the whole house smelled after, where i had to open the doors and windows for about 1 hour to get the smell out.

i have a 3m painting mask, but until i got this box, i never really had an issue with the paint smell.  anyway, i primarily use spray paints, and rarely use my airbrush and a lot of the commercial paint booths say not to use flammable paints with them because of the type of motor.   i live in an apartment, so i dont really have enough room for a permanent work spot.  i found in the pinned link above someone that built their own using a motor from granger. i will probably pick that one up and build a paint booth out of the box i got. 

Many here have built their own spray booths. Even when using spray cans it works even better than "the box". You can get some universal clothes dryer type hose to use as an exhaust and just stick to out the window. While I have a small spray booth designed for spraying I just stick the dryer hose out the door from my basement too the outside and nothing seems to ever blow back inside and the only odor seems to be from the paint on what ever I have just painted and that goes away quickly as it dries. 

[youpey]

Here are a couple of pictures. I think this might actually be the best paint job i have ever done. I did 1 coat of silver, 1 thin coat of the blue, then one gloss coat of the blue, then a clear coat. I did not polish or compound the paint at this point and i can see reflections in it. Its hard for me to show in pictures but here is what i took. The blue is tamiya ts54, light metallic blue and tamiya ts13 for the clear. The silver is tamiya ts76 mica silver.  there is nothing else done to it at this point, just let the paint dry. i need to do the door lines and such in a dark color, but otherwise i am really happy with this paint job. i dont say that very often. in fact, i dont think i have ever said it

Edited February 23, 2021 by youpey

[peteski]

I have to laugh.

The color bleed from red, orange, yellow colored plastic has been brought up and shown many times, yet there are still some modelers (here) who insist that the problem does not exist.  Even if shown proof, they provide some explanation that it is not really a color bleed.  LOL!

[Modelbuilder Mark]

Turned out really nice 

[youpey]

30 minutes ago, Modelbuilder Mark said:

Turned out really nice 

thank you. 

 

30 minutes ago, peteski said:

I have to laugh.

The color bleed from red, orange, yellow colored plastic has been brought up and shown many times, yet there are still some modelers (here) who insist that the problem does not exist.  Even if shown proof, they provide some explanation that it is not really a color bleed.  LOL!

   i am not sure my using bleeding in this case is technically the correct wording for what i was experiencing. the red was showing up through the white, even with multiple coats of primer. I dont think the red was dying or changing the color of the white, which is what i would consider "bleeding".  I think the white just wasnt strong enough to fully block the red. 

i was definitely getting poor coverage over the red, that i hadnt experienced before. maybe because i dont typically have red molded models. 

 

anyway thank you so much to everyone that helped me on this. this was one that i thought was doomed to be put back in the model closet to never be touched again. however, with the help from everyone here, i was able to get it right the first time and was able to lay down my best paint job to date. 

 

i cant wait to start detailing it i typically wait 2 days after paint before really trying to handle it.

 

 

also, can i compound the clear coat to try to make it even more shiny or do i risk messing it up since the blue is metallic

Edited February 23, 2021 by youpey

[peteski]

Well, I guess it might be in the semantics.  Whatever we call it, the fact is that the color of the plastic is affecting the color of the primer (and likely would affect the color of the final paint coat (especially it the chosen color was a light color).

[youpey]

44 minutes ago, peteski said:

Well, I guess it might be in the semantics.  Whatever we call it, the fact is that the color of the plastic is affecting the color of the primer (and likely would affect the color of the final paint coat (especially it the chosen color was a light color).

its definitely true. i wouldnt be able to paint this car white. at least not with just primer and paint like i typically do

[Tom Geiger]

I do have a pink Cord in my parts box that someone sprayed white over dark red plastic!

[gman]

I remember prepping the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the Revell Russ Davis Ford Thunderbolt kit shortly after it was released (molded in bright orange styrene). I was building it as a plain Jane Thunderbolt, and laid down some Duplicolor Wimbledon white. Much to my surprise, as the colour coats were gassing out, I watched the entire body start to turn a nice coral colour...not what I was shooting for 🥵

That body was relegated to the "box of shame," with valuable lessons learned regarding barrier coats for molded-in-colour bodies.

[Dave G.]

I've always liked a silver base coat under blue metallic, your results show why.

[charlie8575]

Dupli-Color or Plasti-Kote sealer primer has worked flawlessly for me. It's good enough, that it's now my preferred primer, at least for a starter. I'll coat it with red or white if I need to.

Charlie Larkin

[dimaxion]

From my education in the School of Hard Knocks . I did develop a skill of Pant Stripping from South Bound paint jobs through this learning curve  .  My Model Building Experience and Auto Body Training has shown me then way I'd like to share . Always use a Sealing Primer under my Paintwork . It is necessary with Colored Plastics and -any- Fill Work . Other wise a Fill Primer works well enough .  Thanx 

[George Bojaciuk]

What John just said! Primer Sealer works.