Finger nail powder chrome works great

[peteski]

4 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

The stuff on my headers has been there for over 20 years. I suspect the nail chrome powder will be plenty durable for a model. After all, it's made for fingernails!

Well, I'm not looking for longevity of powdered graphite, but something that looks like chrome (for bumpers and trim), and that will get handled by human hands.  As for fingernails, those get redone fairly often.  But this is all just speculations - facts would be nice.

[Straightliner59]

1 minute ago, peteski said:

Well, I'm not looking for longevity of powdered graphite, but something that looks like chrome (for bumpers and trim), and that will get handled by human hands.  As for fingernails, those get redone fairly often.  But this is all just speculations - facts would be nice.

Then perform your own experiments! That's what I intend to do. Yes, fingernails get redone, often. They also get "handled" a thousand times more frequently than any model ever will. If I want to know how, something works, or if it will work, I try it! Why wait around for someone else to see if it works? As I stated earlier, too, the technique I used has been around, forever. All these new "miracle chrome powder" systems are directly based on the same technology. The chemistry is different, is all. Whether you adhere the powder with paint, clear varnish or UV activated gloss, it's a durable system. It doesn't pick up fingerprints, once the undercoat's cured. Rubbing it only burnishes the powder deeper into the undercoat. 

[peteski]

20 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

Then perform your own experiments!

Excellent Idea Daniel!
Why didn't I think of that instead of asking the forum's collective who might have used the stuff for their findings?  I'll do my own experiment.

I have been building plastic models for decades and I'm quite aware of the other (fragile) rub-on metallic powder solutions (like the old SnJ metallic powder). None of those were all that durable.  From the more recent findings, Alsa Chrome seems like a good looking, and durable finish.  Like you mentioned: if I want to find out how good the nail polish stuff is, I'll have to try it myself.

[my66s55]

The system that the guy used in that first video were he brushed it on and then buffed it won't last. I checked out the chrome nail application not using the gel and it doesn't last long. As a couple of other things I'll add is that one some techs use iso alcohol on the gel before applying the powder. It helps it adhere better. Also. If your attempt doesn't come out perfect or you missed some spots you have two options. Leave it in 91 % iso alcohol for a few hours and most will come off. The rest has to be lightly sanded off. If you missed a few spots, just apply another coat. The addition led cured of a gel top coat will protect it and won't dull the shine.

[Straightliner59]

20 minutes ago, peteski said:

Excellent Idea Daniel!
Why didn't I think of that instead of asking the forum's collective who might have used the stuff for their findings?  I'll do my own experiment.

I have been building plastic models for decades and I'm quite aware of the other (fragile) rub-on metallic powder solutions (like the old SnJ metallic powder). None of those were all that durable.  From the more recent findings, Alsa Chrome seems like a good looking, and durable finish.  Like you mentioned: if I want to find out how good the nail polish stuff is, I'll have to try it myself.

I fail to see why you have to be so snarky, all the time. I was offering my opinion based on my own experience. I didn't see anyone else offering any of their experiences. I guess I was the collective, in this instance, so, instead of engaging in a meaningful discussion, you decided to behave like the south end of a northbound horse. I have yet to see any evidence of your decades of modeling experience, at any rate.

[Straightliner59]

5 minutes ago, my66s55 said:

The system that the guy used in that first video were he brushed it on and then buffed it won't last. I checked out the chrome nail application not using the gel and it doesn't last long. As a couple of other things I'll add is that one some techs use iso alcohol on the gel before applying the powder. It helps it adhere better. Also. If your attempt doesn't come out perfect or you missed some spots you have two options. Leave it in 91 % iso alcohol for a few hours and most will come off. The rest has to be lightly sanded off. If you missed a few spots, just apply another coat. The addition led cured of a gel top coat will protect it and won't dull the shine.

Thanks. I am genuinely interested in trying this out.

[peteski]

51 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

I fail to see why you have to be so snarky, all the time. I was offering my opinion based on my own experience.

Daniel, my reply was to your reply which I didn't find helpful at all. 

51 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

I have yet to see any evidence of your decades of modeling experience, at any rate.

You are the 2nd person questioning my modeling credentials on this forum.  I don't post WIPs, but you can see some of my modeling at my club's website: http://classicplastic.org/pete-w.html

Photos of my models have also been published throughout the years in various modeling magazines (FineScale Modeler, Model Cars, and Scale Auto Contest Models).  I hope that my modeling portfolio meets with your approval.   Yes, I'm snarky because of the horse comment you made in your post.  In my view, you resemble that comment more than I.

 

I also found recent comment  from  Doug quite informative. Thanks Doug!

Edited May 31, 2022 by peteski

[Straightliner59]

On 5/30/2022 at 10:16 PM, peteski said:

Daniel, my reply was to your reply which I didn't find helpful at all. 

Then, perhaps you need to work on your reading comprehension. Everything I said is valid, and pertinent to the conversation, not a bunch of contrarian horse dung.

 

On 5/30/2022 at 10:16 PM, peteski said:

You are the 2nd person questioning my modeling credentials on this forum.  I don't post WIPs, but you can see some of my modeling at my club's website: http://classicplastic.org/pete-w.html

Photos of my models have also been published throughout the years in various modeling magazines (FineScale Modeler, Model Cars, and Scale Auto Contest Models).  I hope that my modeling portfolio meets with your approval.   Yes, I'm snarky because of the horse comment you made in your post.  In my view, you resemble that comment more than I.

No, I called you snarky, before the south end/north bound comment, because that's what you were being. In fact, that's typically your demeanor. It's surprising that A) I'm only the second person to call you out for your lack of "sharing", and B ) That I'm the first to mention your general rudeness. So, we're back to your reading comprehension skills:

Yes, I'm snarky because of the horse comment you made in your post.

Or, maybe you're just a liar. I'll admit--I always read your posts, just to see what kind of asinine thing you'll have to say, next.

[peteski]

9 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

No, I called you snarky, before the south end/north bound comment, because that's what you were being. In fact, that's typically your demeanor. It's surprising that A) I'm only the second person to call you out for your lack of "sharing", and B ) That I'm the first to mention your general rudeness. So, we're back to your reading comprehension skills:

Well Daniel, I was born with a snarky personality. It is what it is.  I'm far from being the only member here whom you might call snarky. I also don't know how that relates to my modeling skills, or my ability to leave helpful posts on this forum. As you can see by my post count, I do plenty of sharing (of actual useful info, unlike this silly discussion we are having). If you don't like my posts, just ignore me.

Next time you look at any BMF package, you can see another example of my modeling (which you seemed to be craving so much).  I comprehended your original "go try for yourself" post just fine.  Not problems there.  I just found it unhelpful. The only problem we are having here are your constant attacks about my personality and modeling abilities.

As for my comments about this product, if you look at other posts, I'm not only one who is questioning the product.

Edited June 1, 2022 by peteski

[Straightliner59]

9 hours ago, peteski said:

Well Daniel, I was born with a snarky personality. It is what it is.  I'm far from being the only member here whom you might call snarky. I also don't know how that relates to my modeling skills, or my ability to leave helpful posts on this forum. As you can see by my post count, I do plenty of sharing (of actual useful info, unlike this silly discussion we are having). If you don't like my posts, just ignore me.

Next time you look at any BMF package, you can see another example of my modeling (which you seemed to be craving so much).  I comprehended your original "go try for yourself" post just fine.  Not problems there.  I just found it unhelpful. The only problem we are having here are your constant attacks about my personality and modeling abilities.

As for my comments about this product, if you look at other posts, I'm not only one who is questioning the product.

Whatever, dude. You could use some self-awareness. My point about sharing your work is this:

If you're going to sit up there, and pontificate, you might gain some credibility, if you share something you're actually doing. That's all. As for any comments I made regarding the use of metal powders and substrates, I stand by them. And, the reason I think SNJ's system didn't work, is because their undercoat flashed, way too fast which left us rubbing the powder onto the undercoat, and not into it. I still have a bottle of their powder. It works, just fine, and is plenty durable when burnished into a proper base. I've found both lacquers and enamels to be effective. As I stated very early in this thread, the chrome powder system is exactly the same technique, simply using more modern materials. As to your questions regarding its durability over the long-haul? That's impossible to know, given that it's a new product. 

[peteski]

12 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

If you're going to sit up there, and pontificate, you might gain some credibility, if you share something you're actually doing. That's all.

I was going to let this go, but you keep harping on me to prove my skills or modeling experience.  Just because I don't post any WIP threads it doesn't mean that I don't know what I'm talking about.  Those models on my club's website are not built by some little elves I hired. Those models are proof that I'm not just blowing smoke, or just an armchair modeler.
There are other modelers here who only post photos of their completed models.  There are yet others who do not post in either WIP or Finished Models sections, with only an occasional model photo in some thread (or no model photos at all) who also are very knowledgeable and offer sage advice (with or without snark) which is worth paying attention to.
I have plenty of knowledge and experience with chemicals we use in our hobby, and I firmly believe that understanding the chemistry behind the products we use results in better models.  I also seem to have plenty of credibility on this forum, but you are fixating on my personality traits, not at my actual skills and knowledge.  Just like you said: whatever dude.

BTW, your last post contained some useful info. Thank you!

Edited June 2, 2022 by peteski

[Xingu]

@peteski @Straightliner59 please take your discussion to email or PM. There is no need for the rest of the board to view it. @everyone else this is the type of behavior to avoid, even if you frame your offensive comment in a nice way. It leads to personal attacks and 30 days to think about what you did.

[Bugatti Fan]

This discussion unfortunately was getting a little out of hand to make Michael step in.

I would bet that if you two guys met face to face you would be having this discussion a bit more cordially over a couple of beers and the tone might have been a bit different.

I'm sure that there was no malice deliberately intended between you both, but sometimes the printed word can come across a bit harsh when we feel a bit passionate about things.

Can we get back to discussing the nail powder chrome?

[Jantrix]

1 hour ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Can we get back to discussing the nail powder chrome?

Agreed. Any further experience with this stuff? I'm headed to Amazon tonight to find some. I have two old Johan kits that I have been waiting for a chrome system.

[Bugatti Fan]

Some of the old Monogram classics chrome used to go black of left unsealed, so any good chrome simulation products are very useful to restore such items.

[Oldmopars]

I know this thread is old, but I have 3 questions. 

1. Most or all of the things I have seen done with this chrome powder technique have been very smooth, like bumpers or spoons. How well does it work on things like a wheel, supercharger, dash, etc. Things with groves, crack, deep contours?

2. Anyone figured out how to thin the base and airbrush it? Seems for smaller parts or not smooth parts this would be key. 

3. Any links to a go-to brand that works good?

I really like this idea, and it seems to work really well. I also like that it seems to give a more real chrome look, less cheap toy looking. 

Now that it has been a year+ I am hoping for some more feed back. 

[ctruss53]

On 5/29/2022 at 9:57 PM, my66s55 said:

  Your way    

Apply adhesive layer, brush the powder on a tacky base coat of paint , buff. Enjoy chrome finish. 

My way

apply gel layer, uv cure (uv curing hardens the layer so you can touch it. It's not sticky.) rub the powder on with a sponge applicator , brush off unused powder. No sticky surface or buffing. My bumper looks a whole lot better than that spoon. My powder even looks more metallic. The non gel way takes a lot more work to get it to shine and in my eyes view, doesn't appear to be as shinny.   

Don't you just love how you can't share anything on here without someone arguing with you?

You used the stuff. You know how it went on. But yet they are telling you that you did it a different way than you actually did it.

[Can-Con]

1 hour ago, ctruss53 said:

Don't you just love how you can't share anything on here without someone arguing with you?

You used the stuff. You know how it went on. But yet they are telling you that you did it a different way than you actually did it.

It seems to me that any time someone does a post on a home "chrome" product, someone  [or more] feels the need to point out that there are other products that they feel are better.  People are passionate about what they like and what they are used to suing and doing. I understand that but I don't understand how it seems to evolve into a "hot topic button" situation, even though I have been sucked into it myself. [I regret that]  It's getting almost as bad as a politics or religion post for some reason. 😌

 

Edited July 2, 2023 by Can-Con

[atomicholiday]

Careful.  The new rules will state:

No posts about politics, religion, … or any model building techniques. 😁

 

Back to the original topic though.  I have to say I’m fascinated by this method.  I really need to pick up some of this stuff and try it out.

Edited July 2, 2023 by atomicholiday

[StevenGuthmiller]

A large part of the problem with all of these "chrome alternative" threads is that there are a large portion of us who are not particularly thinking of the finish of most of them per say, as they can all produce at least a semi-acceptable chrome finish, but  the big question in our minds is about durability.

That question never seems to get a definitive answer.

As a rule, just a lot of vague responses with no real concrete resolutions.

Mostly just guesses.

 

Personally, durability is ALL that I care about.

Otherwise, they're basically all the same with differing methods of application.

 

I guess what I want to see with any of these products instead of simple bumper after simple bumper, is for someone to do a chrome part that's going to require some fairly extensive detailing after chrome.

Grille washes, badge detailing, etc, and see what the finish looks like after, and then I'll be able to fully assess the product and whether or not it's something that I want to investigate.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

[Can-Con]

44 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

A large part of the problem with all of these "chrome alternative" threads is that there are a large portion of us who are not particularly thinking of the finish of most of them per say, as they can all produce at least a semi-acceptable chrome finish, but  the big question in our minds is about durability.

That question never seems to get a definitive answer.

As a rule, just a lot of vague responses with no real concrete resolutions.

Mostly just guesses.

 

Personally, durability is ALL that I care about.

Otherwise, they're basically all the same with differing methods of application.

 

I guess what I want to see with any of these products instead of simple bumper after simple bumper, is for someone to do a chrome part that's going to require some fairly extensive detailing after chrome.

Grille washes, badge detailing, etc, and see what the finish looks like after, and then I'll be able to fully assess the product and whether or not it's something that I want to investigate.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

Working on it. 👍

[customline]

🥱

[atomicholiday]

This topic has been on my mind a lot lately.  So much so that I decided to splurge and pick up some of the supplies and try it out for myself.  Here’s what I used:

It took a few weeks to get everything ready, (shipping delays on the UV light).  So while I was waiting, I shot two spoons with different types of paint for the black base coat.  One is Krylon color max, the other is Rustolium black lacquer.  Just wanted to see if there was any difference in the final product.  I think you could probably use whatever black paint you want.  These spoons have been curing for about three weeks now.  I didn’t really notice any difference at the end.

Today I was finally ready for the test.  I applied the Glass Finish Gel, and cured each piece under the UV light for 60 seconds.  

 

Next, I applied the chrome mirror nail powder.  Simple.  You just put a little on the sponge and wipe it across the topcoat.  Didn’t seem to matter if you scrubbed it in or just wiped it.  At this point, you’ll have extra powder on the surface, and it will look sparkly.

Finally, I wiped the excess powder off with a paper towel, and buffed it a bit.

 

Here’s a shot so you can see how much reflectivity it has.  I’m not going to state my opinion on that.  You be your own judge.

Here are my observations.  

1. The gel is pretty thick.  So much so that it looks wavy to me.  If you look closely at the picture above, you’ll see what I mean.  This, in my opinion, is the biggest problem with the process.  I think if you thinned it, maybe it would lay down flat and look a lot better.  I think reflectivity would be better too.  No idea what it should be thinned with though.  Suggestions?

2. The powder goes everywhere.  I’ve washed my hands and cleaned my work surface well, and I still see sparkles.😁

I know many of you will be asking the other big question, durability.  Again, I won’t give you any opinion.  I will say, I rubbed it fairly vigorously with my thumb, and also tried the tape test.  I used blue 3m tape, and did NOT, de-tack it first.  Just put a piece on half of the spoon, rubbed it down, and ripped it off as roughly as I could.  The final picture above was taken after the tape test.

All I can say in the end is, try it out for yourself.  I’d like to see what more people think after using it.

[Brian_R]

Jeremy,

I've seen a couple demos using the gel.  Did you try the powder over the black paint?  I'm wondering what magic this cured gel has to hold the powder.

Brian

[atomicholiday]

14 minutes ago, Brian_R said:

Jeremy,

I've seen a couple demos using the gel.  Did you try the powder over the black paint?  I'm wondering what magic this cured gel has to hold the powder.

Brian

Sort of, but not intentionally.  In the last picture, you can see where the chrome stops.  It’s right at the edge of the gel.  And I wasn’t exactly careful about how I put the powder on.  It definitely didn’t stick to the paint.  

Not sure what the deal is with the gel.  It goes on wet like regular nail polish, and cures under the UV light very quickly.  I held it under for 60 seconds, and then gingerly touched it with a toothpick to see if it was still wet.  Nothing.  Seemed bone dry, and didn’t feel tacky.

But it really could stand to be thinned down.  It’s pretty thick.  Is that how all nail polish is?  You might be surprised to learn I’ve never colored my nails.😁