Resin Body Pin holes

[Len Woodruff]

I have a resin body that has a large amount of pin holes on the side. Anybody have a recommended way of filling these so they don't show after painting?

Thanks in advance for your help & suggestions.

[dwc43]

21 minutes ago, Len Woodruff said:

I have a resin body that has a large amount of pin holes on the side. Anybody have a recommended way of filling these so they don't show after painting?

Thanks in advance for your help & suggestions.

I fixed three bodies for a friend of mine. One was really bad. I just filled them with c/a glue and sanded them down when it dried. Worked great and the glue just flows where it needs to go. I'd try that again if the need comes up.

[Len Woodruff]

22 minutes ago, dwc43 said:

I fixed three bodies for a friend of mine. One was really bad. I just filled them with c/a glue and sanded them down when it dried. Worked great and the glue just flows where it needs to go. I'd try that again if the need comes up.

I was thinking about that. Did you use the super thin CA?

[Plowboy]

I had a resin body that seemed like it had a thousand pinholes in it. At the time, I shot a coat of primer over it and used the white Squadron putty. Today, I would use Tamiya. It's held up well over the years.

But, it did take a lot of prep work to get it smooth. You'll definitely want to use a guide coat (different color) on your primer and be prepared to do a lot of sanding.  

[dwc43]

1 hour ago, Len Woodruff said:

I was thinking about that. Did you use the super thin CA?

I used medium. From Hobby Lobby.

 

[chris coller]

C/A glue or body filler

[Len Woodruff]

28 minutes ago, chris coller said:

C/A glue or body filler

 

Looks like the super thin C/A will do the trick. I tried it on 1 section and it filled the holes even the tiny ones easily.

[dwc43]

4 minutes ago, Len Woodruff said:

 

Looks like the super thin C/A will do the trick. I tried it on 1 section and it filled the holes even the tiny ones easily.

Glad it worked out for you. 

[Zippi]

4 hours ago, Plowboy said:

I had a resin body that seemed like it had a thousand pinholes in it. At the time, I shot a coat of primer over it and used the white Squadron putty. Today, I would use Tamiya. It's held up well over the years.

But, it did take a lot of prep work to get it smooth. You'll definitely want to use a guide coat (different color) on your primer and be prepared to do a lot of sanding.  

Good looking Falcon Roger.

[Len Woodruff]

52 minutes ago, dwc43 said:

Glad it worked out for you. 

Thanks. Still a lot of work to make it good. But thanks to everyone I now have a plan to move forward.

[dwc43]

30 minutes ago, Len Woodruff said:

Thanks. Still a lot of work to make it good. But thanks to everyone I now have a plan to move forward.

More than welcome. Yeah, it takes a lot of sanding. Something I don't care much for. lol

[THarrison351]

CA glue and baking powder works great too

[DoctorLarry]

Super glue followed by Tamiya white. A light smear of putty which is very fine and will sand off easily.

[robdebie]

Does it look like this? I used a spray can of Mr Surfacer 1200 on this model, but then I saw dozens and dozens of pinholes in the Mr Surfacer. You can see some of the pinholes as they appeared originally in the canopy coaming area, especially at the extreme left of the photo.

I explored a few pinholes with a needle, and found a cavity (air bubble) beneath each one of them. The photo shows how all the pin holes that I found and opened up with a needle, for future filling with CA glue.

Here they are filled with thin CA glue. I did not use fillers. It was a ton of work..

Rob

[Len Woodruff]

Not quite that bad but close. The extra thin CA really work well to fill the holes and level evening out after sanding.

[69NovaYenko]

All the aforementioned solutions are valid ways for dealing with you pinhole issue. I currently have a resin cast body on the bench. The more I`d sand it the more pinhole would pop up; in fact some were potholes.  I resolved the issue by using Mr Surfacer500 on the tip of a toothpick to fill the larger pot holes and Dupicolor 2-1 Filler Sandable Primer to cover the tiny potholes. Note: Actually any brand of sandable scratch filler primer will work..I just use the Duplicolor  `cause that's what my nearby auto parts store carry's and it does a great job of filling the itty-bitty pinholes. I`m just putting option on the table for you to consider.

Note: The three tiny holes you see in the body are witness marks I drilled to  assist in correctly placing the resin door handles and photo etched  door lock and fender badging at a later date. Also be mindfully with the rattle can filler sandable primer and spay in light coats so you don't bury any of the cast body details. After all the nozzle on this can is meant to spray 1 to 1 bodies and will dump a lot of primer if your heavy handed. I suggest you sneak up on it. Mist light coats on problem areas then let it dry and lightly sand..then  mist coat again and let it dry and again lightly sand until the tin holes no longer rear their little ugly heads. Repeat until your satisfied with the final results. Good luck.

Edited June 15, 2022 by 69NovaYenko

[Len Woodruff]

I have been using the 2n1 on the resin body. I figured it would fill holes after a number of paint/sanding/paint steps. But I wanted to make sure I had no paint problems for the final finish. The CA lets it be a fill, prime, sand reducing the numbers of steps and chances of sanding/changing some character lines of the body.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Sure would be nice if resin casters bothered to learn how to do the work before they sell this crapp.

[peteski]

36 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Sure would be nice if resin casters bothered to learn how to do the work before they sell this crapp.

If that resin kit is the only game in town, and people will still buy the parts with pinholes, there is really no good incentive for the caster to improve casting quality.

[Len Woodruff]

In my case I am doing the casting. I think I caused the problem because I used spray on mold release and didn't brush the body to break down the bubbles caused by the propellant.

[Ace-Garageguy]

41 minutes ago, peteski said:

If that resin kit is the only game in town, and people will still buy the parts with pinholes, there is really no good incentive for the caster to improve casting quality.

Ever hear of pride in one's own workmanship?

That's the only "incentive" I've ever needed.

Obsolete past-it geezer concept, I know.

[Ace-Garageguy]

39 minutes ago, Len Woodruff said:

In my case I am doing the casting. I think I caused the problem because I used spray on mold release and didn't brush the body to break down the bubbles caused by the propellant.

Well that bites. But that's how we learn.

I've boogered lotsa stuff, will probably booger more before it's over.  

The trick is to not keep making the same mistake.   

[peteski]

1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Ever hear of pride in one's own workmanship?

Yes, familiar with the concept.

That's the only "incentive" I've ever needed.

Agreed.

Obsolete past-it geezer concept, I know.

Sad, but true.  Plenty of examples everywhere around us.

 

[Rick L]

11 hours ago, Len Woodruff said:

In my case I am doing the casting. I think I caused the problem because I used spray on mold release and didn't brush the body to break down the bubbles caused by the propellant.

Unfortunately you’re introducing bubbles to the plastic by hand mixing. A fast curing resin will make matters worse. A pressure pot will help. Especially with a slow curing resin. 

[Len Woodruff]

1 hour ago, Rick L said:

Unfortunately you’re introducing bubbles to the plastic by hand mixing. A fast curing resin will make matters worse. A pressure pot will help. Especially with a slow curing resin. 

I do use the slow curing resin. Since I don't have the pressure pot I am using a syringe through a small hole to get the resin everywhere in the mold. I have done this on previous bodies and it worked well.