Taking bets on Rust-Oleum / Testors paint.

[Toast]

What's your bets that these are the same thing? The large can is $3 less.  🤦‍♂️

[Ace-Garageguy]

I wouldn't be surprised.

[Straightliner59]

It'd make sense.

[deuces wild]

🤔.... Looks like it...????

[peteski]

Whether it is or not is to me less important than the fact that the color-shifting flakes seem way out of scale (too large) for 1:12 or small scale cars.  It might be ok for 1:8 scale, but it would still look like the glittery finish used on bass-boats.

[vintagerpm]

According to their SDS sheets (found online) they are the same.

 

[slusher]

I would buy the tall can..

[Dave G.]

I agree with the bass boat analogy, or else late 60's metal flaked dune buggy.

[Mike 1017]

I think that by reading the back of both cans might give a tip on who to bet on

Mike

[Jon Haigwood]

I don't use Rust-oleum unless I decant it. I have had to many cans clog up about half way thru them. 

[LennyB]

4 hours ago, Jon Haigwood said:

I don't use Rust-oleum unless I decant it. I have had to many cans clog up about half way thru them. 

I have stopped using their stuff. In fact I just filed a complaint with them because I had issues with cans clogging up. They tell me a refund check is on the way, we shall see.

[Mike 1017]

17 hours ago, LennyB said:

I have stopped using their stuff. In fact I just filed a complaint with them because I had issues with cans clogging up. They tell me a refund check is on the way, we shall see.

There is a decades old trick. Place the can in a bowl of hot water. I never have had a clog. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:

There is a decades old trick. Place the can in a bowl of hot water. I never have had a clog. 

I do that all the time, and have for decades.

Unfortunately, it has never stopped Rustoleum cans from clogging up.

I have probably a half dozen cans of Rustoleum in my shop at the moment.

All are more than half full, and all are plugged up.

 

 

 

Steve

[rattle can man]

I have to agree on the Rustoleum cans. I've tried the hot water trick dunking the nozzles immediately after spraying, thinner in the tubes, and nothing works to revive a half can 

[LennyB]

The last cans I bought had the adjustable spray nozzles with I think 5 different patterns. Only one is small enough for our kits. It would clog after every use but I could pop it off and clear it out with pin. Of course you can only do that too many times before is screws up the nozzle.

The thing with spray cans is if you turn them upside down after use and spray you could clean out the nozzles. But these Rustoleum cans don't do that. They just continue to spray paint when upside down. Useless garbage😠

[James2]

You do know that Rust-oleum owns Testers....

[deuces wild]

Yep!....🙄😔

[MeatMan]

On 12/4/2024 at 11:40 AM, Jon Haigwood said:

I don't use Rust-oleum unless I decant it. I have had to many cans clog up about half way thru them. 

Yes, their nozzles seem designed to push a lot of paint per spray.

[Mike 1017]

19 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I do that all the time, and have for decades.

Unfortunately, it has never stopped Rustoleum cans from clogging up.

I have probably a half dozen cans of Rustoleum in my shop at the moment.

All are more than half full, and all are plugged up.

 

 

 

Steve

Steve,

I only use Rustoleum primer which runs out pretty quick. That is probably why I have had no clogs

Mike

[maxwell48098]

I have been v..e...r....y lucky to have not had a can of Rust-oleum plug up on me.  I do store my spray cans in an unusual fashion, up side down.  I've had cans that are nearly 40 years old that still spray after being stored this way.  I always heat the cans and shake them for a couple of minutes before using.  In addition to the heat increasing the propellant pressure, I also think it helps the paint inside the can mix better.  I also think that storing the cans inverted helps prevent propellant leaks. I've been doing this for at least for the past 45 - 50 years. 

I've also been given, or bought cheap, old spray paint from fellow modelers.  On these, I'll invert the can to see if propellant comes out.  If not, what I'll do is to heat the can hotter than normal, remove the nozzle and see if it is plugged.  Then I'll use an old nozzle that I've removed the spray tip from so that it has a big opening on the nozzle. Also without fail, thick paint will come out first before the regular paint shoots out, and then we're in business.

One final word on spray can nozzle care.  EVERY time I use some spray can paint, I remove the nozzle from the can and clean it by spraying aerosol 1:1 automotive carb/brake parts cleaner through the paint nozzle.  That little spray tube on the parts fits perfectly inside nearly every spray paint nozzle. A quick blast or two will clean the inside of the paint nozzle out.  FYI - Always save the spray paint nozzles when you finish up the paint.  They can usually be used on other spray paint cans using the same type of nozzle, and often provide different spray patterns. 

Just my 2 cents.

A.J.