Adhesive

[hedotwo]

A quick post to say I've come to really like using this Gorilla adhesive.  If you're not as steady with your hands and fingers as you used to be this stuff works great for being able to give you time to reposition stuff.  Almost like the old Testors tube glue but when working with newer 3d or resin stuff it's the ticket IMO.  It's a bit stringy (like the tube glue) but other than that it's strong enough when dry but most importantly it's not permanent to where you can't change your mind and take it apart.  Anyway, I like using it now that I do more resin stuff and it works great when prefitting things before painting.

[Bainford]

Thanks for the review. I have been curious about this stuff.

[Bugatti Fan]

Sounds like a good contact adhesive. Will keep in mind as my current type is nearly exhausted.

  Heard that Gorilla Brand products good.  Any recommendations about their other adhesives?

[stitchdup]

avoid the gorrila super glues. The fumes from them will destroy clear coat even if it just sitting close and on a seperate part. I glued a part o a pick up and the clear on the bug next it bubbled

[hedotwo]

16 minutes ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Sounds like a good contact adhesive. Will keep in mind as my current type is nearly exhausted.

  Heard that Gorilla Brand products good.  Any recommendations about their other adhesives?

This has been the only Gorilla stuff I've used for modeling.  I have used their mounting tapes however and they work pretty well for that.  

[1930fordpickup]

Their brand of wood glue foams holds tight  but the foaming may push unclamped parts apart. At 1/25th scale you don't need that. 

[peteski]

Contact cements usually have you coat both glued surfaces and let the glue partially dry, then put the parts together for a permanent joint.  Is this how this adhesive is designed to be used?

 

BTW, guys, not all Gorilla glues are of the expanding (foaming) urethane type, which was their original adhesive. They now also make other non-urehane based adhesives, such as CA (super) glue and this stuff.  These will have the expansion issue.

[Straightliner59]

This stuff kind of sounds like it may be similar to GS Hypo Cement, which can be used for watch crystals. I have been using it for certain jobs, for a few years, now, and I like it. Sounds like I may give this stuff a try, anyway!

[hedotwo]

9 hours ago, peteski said:

Contact cements usually have you coat both glued surfaces and let the glue partially dry, then put the parts together for a permanent joint.  Is this how this adhesive is designed to be used?

 

Yes it's a typical contact cement that you'd normally apply to both surfaces and wait a period of time before mating.  For me anyway, this has been working really well by applying it as you would a typical glue.  The pieces I've been using it on really don't need the extra strength you'd get from applying it like the directions say.  I've had the need to disassemble these pieces occasionally after finding the fit isn't what I wanted.  A good example is when I've assembled the 3d printed interiors for resin printed kits.  I've got a thing for making sure the door panels sit where they should in relationship to the body and that requires a fair amount of trial and error.  I've used small bits of blue tack but this cement works so much better in that it holds fairly quickly (important) and allows you time to move things around and even pull apart if needed to reposition (more important to me).  I've been able to take pieces apart the next day without trouble.  The adhesive it leaves is kind of rubbery but can be removed with not much effort.  For me, I'd say this stuff is somewhere between an Elmers type white glue and typical superglue.  I still use either epoxies, superglue, or regular Tamiya styrene cement for the majority of assembly but this has it's place when prefitting stuff.

[Radretireddad]

Great! I’ve been wondering if there is anything else that works better than Elmers for the mock-up stages so I’m definitely going to try this stuff. Thanks for sharing this.

[peteski]

Thanks for the information Rich.  You mention using it on 3D printed resin parts. That type of material is pretty resistant to what we call "hot" solvents.   I wonder if the Gorilla Contact Cement also has a hot solvent which might affect polystyrene of a typical plastic kit.  Is there a list of contents on the tube which would show what type of solvent is in that cement?

[hedotwo]

12 hours ago, peteski said:

Thanks for the information Rich.  You mention using it on 3D printed resin parts. That type of material is pretty resistant to what we call "hot" solvents.   I wonder if the Gorilla Contact Cement also has a hot solvent which might affect polystyrene of a typical plastic kit.  Is there a list of contents on the tube which would show what type of solvent is in that cement?

You brought up a great point.  It does say it's not recommended for polystyrene and to also avoid "finished" surfaces.  I admit I have used it on styrene parts on a couple of occasions but only on small parts, only on one of the two surfaces and used very little of the adhesive, and didn't notice anything adverse.  But.... that's been my experience with using it on styrene so take it for what that's worth and use your own judgement whether to use it or not.  As I mentioned, my last two builds have been printed resin and they're the two that I found this stuff to be very useful.

I think I'll do a bit of testing on some scrap styrene this morning and use different amounts to see what happens.  I'll give them a day and reply here with what I find. 

Edited May 5 by hedotwo

[R. Thorne]

Available from HomeDepot in a 3 oz tube.  

[hedotwo]

I put a bit of this Clear Grip on a piece of styrene and an old junk windshield to see what might happen.  24 hrs later I saw no fogging or discoloration around the sample spots.  I was able to remove one of each by pulling on it with a tweezers and it came off kind of like gum, but I wouldn't say it pulled off easily.  Underneath you can see it was biting into both the clear and the white sheet.  Not bad, but it was there.  I also did a test with E6000 clear adhesive (from Hobby Lobby) and the results were similar.

[Bugatti Fan]

This has developed into a very interesting thread.

[peteski]

Thanks Rich! So as I suspected, that glue contains solvent which is hot enough to affect polystyrene (while being safe on 3D printed resin and likely on urethane resins used for old-school resin cast kits).  Usually seeing the "Warning: Flammable" on the tube likely indicates that the adhesive uses a hot solvent which might affect polystyrene.

Edited May 7 by peteski

[Rick L]

Naphtha and toluene on the msds. It’s hot.