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Plowboy

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Everything posted by Plowboy

  1. All I have is a partial can Tom. No idea how much is left in it. Sorry.
  2. I would do a test on the underside of the hood. You never know when bleed through will strike! I used to not believe in bleed through until I had it happen. I was painting blue over yellow styrene. It didn’t happen with the primer (3 coats), paint (3 coats) or the first coat of clear. It happened on the second coat of clear! The yellow bled right through. Luckily, I was painting a 34 Ford pickup and had only sprayed the grille and bed. I salvaged the paint job by spraying another coat of blue and only one coat of clear. Primer, paint and clear were all Tamiya. The kit was the Lindberg molded in a high gloss yellow. First kit I ever saw with such shiney styrene. I almost think that was caused the bleed through. No way to know for sure. But, it didn’t happen with the additional coat of paint and clear.
  3. A lot of builders do it that way and it seems to work. I use solid rod for roll cages, exhaust and headers. I don't have to worry about it collapsing or breaking.
  4. The '69 GTX has the same issues as the '68 Road Runner. I came up with a fairly simple method for fixing the issues on the '69 GTX. But, I didn't take photos of the process as it was a test run for the '68 Road Runner. Here's some progress photos. These were before I fixed the reveal on the front fenders and the vent glass. Here's a couple after paint. When I get to the Road Runner, I'll take photos of the process. It's simple enough that pretty much anyone can do it.
  5. That's a nice looking Firebird David! The color suits it really well and the painted spokes on the wheels makes a big difference! I have this kit. But, never have done anything more than look through the parts. Yours makes me want to give it a closer look.
  6. Why not use one from a Revell/ Hasegawa VW van? Looks like you'll need that wheelbase.
  7. I used TS-9 British Green on one a few years ago. Looked about right to me. I found a photo of the flathead painted with TS-9.
  8. I sand the entire body before primer, before paint and before clear unless it's a metallic paint. That way, every layer has some "tooth" to stick to.
  9. Too right! That's why I've been watching videos of reviews on the Lightning. A couple of guys with a YouTube channel called Truck Life is driving one from Michigan to Colorado and then to Alaska. I believe that will be a great test for available charging stations and the range. They drag raced it at Colorado and the thing turns consistent 12.90s. That's quick for a pickup! Especially one that weighs more than the ICE counterpart. I'm nowhere near ready to make the leap. But, I have been trying to learn all I can. I think it's only a matter of time until Ford offers the Maverick as an EV. If they do, they will really get my attention!
  10. You're welcome Conrad! Do the same technique you're doing. Just sand your clear smooth before polishing. Your technique is almost exactly the same as mine. I typically spray only two coats of clear, allow it to dry a day, sand with 2000, clean and spray the third coat. Allow it to dry 2-3 days depending on the temperature. Then sand with 2000, 4000 and polish. I have just sanded with 2000 and went over it twice with the Course polish. It's about the same difference.
  11. Both the '68 Road Runner and '69 GTX have some issues: drooping quarter panels, rear wheel openings the wrong shape, flat trunk lids and the vent glass detail. I fixed the issues on a '69 GTX. It was a test run to see if I could fix the issues and the fixes were fairly simple. To me, they greatly improved the looks of the model.
  12. This illustrates why I prefer the '71 and up Gran Prix. The rear of the car, as well as the front, has much better styling. I have a '72 promo in the stash. But, I lost interest in it.
  13. The one step you're missing is sanding your clear smooth before polishing with the compounds. I'll usually use 2000 grit and then lightly go over it with 4000. Then use the Course, Fine and Finish. You'll want to spray at least three coats of clear to allow for sanding and polishing.
  14. And it very well still could be. Round2 has been surprising us lately with kits that some said were gone forever. So, you never know.
  15. Could be. But, I would think it would've been called that instead of a customizing kit. I just hope it isn't some George Barris abomination. I'm hoping you're right!
  16. That's odd. Tamiya white is quite thin for putty. I used Squadron white which is a lot thicker and had no problems.
  17. Exactly. But, people are making assumptions about what he has or hasn't done and no one truly knows.
  18. How do we know this guy didn't do all of the work? Has he entered it in model car contests? If he hasn't, what does it matter? Even if he did enter it into a contest, it's certainly no worse than the dad that brings his kid along so that he can place his model in the youth class.
  19. What's the difference in building a kit where all of the parts are created? What about buying aftermarket parts, photo etch, resin etc.? The person building the model didn't create those parts. They bought them. Another person or machine did the work for them.
  20. Find a kit of the same make and similar model year to use for the donor parts.
  21. Star Models actually makes the panel van conversion.
  22. As Bill stated, they're still pretty common on ebay. And still at a decent price. If Revell did reissue it, retail price would probably be more than they are currently. I didn't realize it had been eleven years since it had been reissued! Time flies when you're getting old! One added thought; if anything, I would like to see Revell do a panel van based on this kit like they did with the '37.
  23. Very true. Besides, pimps don't have much time for building modelcars.
  24. The first issue of this kit had the Halibrand wheels. I'm sure it'll get reissued with them later on. I'll just have to wait.
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