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Dreaded Orange Peel


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23 hours ago, robdebie said:

Try the 'Donn Yost' or 'Andy X' method! I found it some months ago, and it worked extremely well for me.

Here are some test pieces - so far it worked with all brands of model enamel that I tried.

donnyost-01.jpg

donnyost-02.jpg

The method is simple and easy, give it a try!

Rob

 

 

Andy X... the idiot nut who bragged about scoring a huge vintage model car stash on YouTube won’t sell? I don’t even listen to him anymore since he acts like his method is better than everyone else’s. Arrogant POS.  As one poster mentioned, he’s using acrylics. 

Any orange peel I’ve encountered (3 or 4 times myself) has always been with enamels. Never acrylics. A number of factors causes orange peel. Climate, spraying too thick, rattle cans not mixed enough, etc...

My issues had always been climate when I spray outside during warm weather and/or spraying too thick through rattle cans. I’ve quickly learned to slow down and spray in several light coats. Let each light coat dry between coats until you achieved your desired coverage.

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Well as I have said, my acrylic in the form of craft and Createx isn't really the issue. I just have to find a clear that I can apply without or with minimal orange peel. I have never used the actual model acrylics. I there actually one that dries with a gloss finish?

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32 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

I just have to find a clear that I can apply without or with minimal orange peel.

Mike, man, I like DupliColor perfect match clear. I make close, fast passes with the spray can and hardly ever get any peel in it.... As long as your primer works with the clear, you shouldn't have much issue. The craft paints don't make a very good barrier coat...

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1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

Well as I have said, my acrylic in the form of craft and Createx isn't really the issue. I just have to find a clear that I can apply without or with minimal orange peel. I have never used the actual model acrylics. I there actually one that dries with a gloss finish?

Mike, I haven't been using it lately and maybe I mentioned it already but I always in the past had good luck with gloss and no orange peel with the Rustoleum lacquer in the green can with the big chair on the front. I believe it's non acrylic lacquer. It buffs up easy too if you need to.

1 hour ago, JollySipper said:

Mike, man, I like DupliColor perfect match clear. I make close, fast passes with the spray can and hardly ever get any peel in it.... As long as your primer works with the clear, you shouldn't have much issue. The craft paints don't make a very good barrier coat...

I suspect it will go over craft paints fine. I know the green can lacquer with the big chair on the front from Rustoleum does and with Stynylrez primer under it. I personally have found craft paints to barrier fine against lacquer clears thus far, better than some solvent paints really. Admittedly not having shot the Duplicolor clear over them but other lacquers have been fine.

Edited by Dave G.
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On 1/11/2022 at 11:37 AM, deuces wild said:

I still have a bottle or 2 of Boyd gloss black that I'd like to try that 50/50 mix on a Revell '69 Nova body. Looks like he air brushed directly on plastic without primer... That's scary.. 

Scary?  Why?  Testors paints are (and were always) designed for plastic models.  No primer needed. When you were a kid, did you put a coat of primer (from a hardware store) before spraying models using color paints from Pactra or Testors?  Probably not.

I build mostly unmodified kit bodies. When I use hobby paints like Testors I don't use primer.  To me any additional layer of paint ruins the realism (paint coat gets too thick, out of scale).  The only time  I would use primer with hobby paints would be if the model was modified in some way that required putty.  Then the primer is needed to make the model's surface uniform.   Otherwise, the paint goes over bare plastic.  Of course this works with the "stinky" "paints.  Acrylic water-based paints usually dont' stick well to bare plastic.  I don't use those.

Edited by peteski
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The solvents in the “stinky” paints help it adhere to the solvent sensitive styrene where water base obviously doesn’t have that feature. I would suggest solvent based primer for water based paint as example for a two tone paint job. Some tapes may pull the water base paint up from bare plastic.

Edited by Rick L
Needed to be more specific
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With solvent paints sometimes I prime sometimes I don't. I have models painted in 1974ish with no primer shot in enamel that are basically still fine. Back then I was using both Pactra and Testors enamels so I don't know what's on these or which might have what.

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