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Panel Lines Tutorial


cruz

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Guys, all the washing and scribing I do is first accomplished on the BARE plastic, I do not wash the lines after adding primer. I scribe them very deep and after that I do not have to touch them anymore. Not after primer, basecoats or even clear, it's as simple as that. That is exactly the idea behind scribing them deeply. Neither the primer, paint nor clear touch the scribed/washed lines and that goes with any paint. No matter how dark the wash is, if you look at the pictures of the completed model you will notice that they don't end up as dark as the lines on the bare plastic. That's the magic of this system. You can use dark purple if you want and you won't even need to worry about that.

Now, let's say you want to give them a wash after painting. No problem, again, the lines are so deeply scribed that the actual wash will still look realistic and realistic is what we are going for here.

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Edited by cruz
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This is a model painted with Tamiya White which will more clearly show the washed lines. Notice the different angles, just like a real car, the lines slightly disappear as you move the car around. Now, take some time and go outside and walk around your 1/1 car. Nothing different. That's what I like about this system.....

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just seen a videos where a guys is using a dental explorer( i think thats the corect name) as a panel line scribber, can be a good cheap solution to a panel line scribber?? or just grab the tamiya one an do the correct thing?

since to me seems to be pretty similars, just that isnt as sharp as the scribber

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I've been using an almost identical method for over a decade now, and love the results. I don't have a scriber, I just use the backside of a used (it doesn't need to be sharp) Xacto blade for everything. I shoot for going about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way through the plastic. I don't have any special "wash," I just use whatever flat or matte black paint is on hand and wipe the excess off with rubbing alcohol. Non-moving body seams (fender caps, rocker panels, etc.) I don't scribe nearly as deeply, and I don't put any black in those. For white or light yellow etc paint jobs, I'll use a medium gray paint for the "wash" instead of black.

Excellent tutorial, excellent topic, excellent thread. I almost want to cry when I see a nice model where this hasn't been done but the guy just ran some black into the kit door lines at the end of the build. That almost looks worse than doing nothing at all.

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  • 1 year later...

I screwed the pooch on the AMT 1969 Chevelle SS-396 Convertible that I'm working on . In my artistic mania , I was too focused on , How does that custom version fascia look ? In the process , I forget the most basic first-in-line improvement : the flippin' panel lines !! Now there's a little too much primer in the trunk lines and the doors' lines ( I shaved the door handles and needed some light coats of grey-then-red oxide primer as a guide ; that filled the faint door lines in short order ! Then I sprayed the same alternating-colours-of-primer on the quarters ( those needed some massaging ) and the fenders ( along the tops only ) . Of course the primer got-into the trunk lines ; again , they're faint to begin with .) .

This oversight on my part reminds me of that saying : "Until you walk a mile in another man's shoes , you can't lead a horse to water ."

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I LOVE the info on the scribed method............works VERY well!  ALSO, for those looking for the prototypical results of copying a 1:1 example, remember to check out the REAL 1:1 vehicle for where all the panel join lines are. MANY plastic kits do not include all of the panel lines. A perfect example is the AMT R600 Mack truck and the Ertl/MPC DM600 and DM800 kits. Those kit cabs do not show the panel lines on the cab as they are perfectly smooth where the seams should be, as if they were all filled in with bondo. Check out a 1:1 version and see them on the drivers side in front of the door; on the rocker panels; or on the cowl beneath the windshield. Those lines are where the individual panels are joined to make the cab. They are a VERY obvious part of the 1:1 truck, and should be added to the scale model. Just a pointer, but one VERY easily done with the scribing method.

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~bump~  Hope you don't mind me stepping on your lawn.

Since this was originally written, a tool type that has been released is a chisel, a little different than a panel scriber.  Just an idea, create an updated tutorial using this new tool.  They are not easy to find, been looking when I think of it.  Tamiya makes several widths.

I've used the #11 blade technique before, can get away with using only this.  I will try painting in the groove before painting from now on!

I have also used a pen, Micron (Sakura Color Products Corp.) 005 (0.20mm) archival ink black has worked well, and I also use it around things like side lights.

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1 hour ago, 89AKurt said:

I've used the #11 blade technique before, can get away with using only this.  I will try painting in the groove before painting from now on!

That's what I do--#11 (old blade) backside, run black into the grooves BEFORE paint, then paint as normal and forget about them. No further attention need be paid until it's time to clean polishing compound out of the lines with a toothbrush under warm running water. B)

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The scriber end follow on with a blade that Marcos described for panel lines is by far the best method. I have been doing panel lines in a similar fashion for some time now. The only thing that I do a little differently to Marcos is that after deep scoring the lines I spray the bodywork and paint in the panel lines after the finish coats. As the panel lines are already deep scored, I use a thing named a mapping pen that is basically small old fashioned dip pen with a nib. Make up a wash using artists acrylic to a darker colour than the car body to a watery consistency. Dip the mapping pen and run it along the panel of food line. The pen job being so thin allows very good control compared to a brush, and as the wash is thinly mixed, capillary action helps it run along the lines.

Edited by Bugatti Fan
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On 11/10/2020 at 11:36 AM, NOBLNG said:

Another thing you can do is chuck a small drill bit backwards in a pin vise and use it as a scriber. Use a very light touch as they are brittle! This is a #80 (0.0135”).

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Great Idea when you need to use a circle template! Oooooo a push drill I like that!!!!

Edited by Big John
additionlal info
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On 5/12/2014 at 12:23 PM, Guest said:

 

If they're scribed deep enough, a wash isn't necessary. I never wash panel lines.

A problem I've run into, especially if I am using a rattle can or the paint isn't thin enough, is that it doesn't run into the panel lines just kind of pulls back an forms a bead along the edge.  If the plastic is light and I am shooting a dark color I get light or unwanted color in the panel lines.  I got some lines to scribe on my scratch build and will definitely try this out.  Thanks,

Edited by Big John
Grammer and additional info
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  • 1 year later...

My issues:  1.) Deep scribing means repeated strokes, which increases the chance of slips. 2.) Corners!  Doing straight lines, or those the mfr. put in pretty distinctly is old stuff, but creating corners (as opposed to just rescribing the kit version) is challenging. I have done several 'old school' customs, and this generally requires 'pancaking' the hood, deck, and even door corners, which typically involves scribing all-new lines in surfaces that are usually part styrene and part filler.  Makes for very interesting work/re-work.  I use 'found object' metal templates, to get consistant, symmetrical corner shapes, but... !f  These are hard to find (metal book marks a good source of tight curves, the faithful s/s eraser guide okay for a few  others!) They are not easy to secure to the surface, even taped with green masking over most of the edges, and oc they don't follow sharp contours in my often convoluted custom work -- this requires some thinking ahead!  

Last point, demi-rant: some of the stuff I've seen at shows, mags, etc. is much like the modern trend toward* 'rusting'; over-done, I M Humble O.  On a 1;1 scale car, even a very light or white one, the body openings are visable enough, but don't look like they've been outlined with an airbrush, somehow.  I use a tiny-tip writing pen (any brand) and immediately after accenting the scribe line, give it a wipe with a soft T-shirt rag.  If too much comes off, I can always repeat.  For the record, I'm seldom really satisfied with my results.

*My favorite 'rat ruster' was in SA; a Chevy Cameo kit with elaborately 'rusted' bed sides; which everyone knows are fiberglass!  Oy!

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I'm a late comer to this technique, but I agree with Snake on this.

The back side of an old #11 blade, (even one with a broken tip) works great for scribing panel lines.

I have the luxury of building mostly vintage kits which have much thicker plastic than most modern kits so it's easy, (and fast) with a #11 blade to scribe very deep.

Deep enough so that no wash is required.

 

For new panel lines, I start with the first few swipes with a sharp #11, and then slowly start with the backwards one.

A few strokes with the backwards blade, and you're well on your way.

 

 

I used this method recently on my '64 Bonneville, and to my eye, they look perfect.

 

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And, as Marcos said, looking at the body from an angle lessens the impact of the lines, just as on a 1:1.

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Steve

 

 

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I found the #11 blade idea okay, and it has the advantage of allowing a fairly thick handle for better grip, too.  Still, seems a bit awkward to me; blade-angle and all. Hoping for better, I first bought the BMF line scriber, with the slight hook at the tip, and it worked best when it was relatively new.  Later, I got Micromark's scriber, and like it better,  On all mine, I slip the handle inside a pieces of rubber/neoprene vacuum hose for better purchase, especially when trying to turn corners. 

I'm impressed that Steven got such good results on the fuel-filler door on the B-ville, if he had to do it too.  At least once in every job, I lose my guide edge, and wind up filling an errant scratch -- which my builds don't need!  As Steven said, the old kit bodies are a luxury when scribing, though a lot of fans don't like the thick edges one gets when cutting out apertures.  All my builds are from my stash so-called from the first half of the 'sixties, many of which must have hoods opened to have power-plants adapted from the parts box.  The resulting 'deep scribe' often creates a rather pronounced gap, and so for the best effect, the other lines representing openings benefit from some size emphasis, to avoid very obvious discrepancies in accuracy!  The older the kit, the more they were able to get away with -- but we loved 'em!

I also use my pin vise to hold a sharpened bit of steel (baling?) wire, which has some advantages.  Being able to hold onto the tool very close to the tip seems to me to be helpful, but then I'm not as adroit with fine handwork as I once (think) I was!  On a 'custom' with lots of new scribes, perfection of curve, depth, and line sure help to 'sell' the re-design!  Wick

 

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