Richard Bartrop

My go to filler is Milliput 2 part putty. It doesn't shrink,you can sculpt it like clay, and it's strong enough when it hardens that you can carve and sand even relatively thin pieces. This figure is four and a half inches tall, and was sculpted almost entirely from Milliput, so the stuff supports some very fine detail. I've tried JB Weld, and, while very strong, doesn't sculpt all that well. I've tried sprue goo, and I'd only recommend it for very small areas and shallow indents. On the up side, it becomes one with the plastic, you can feather the edge of your patch without having to worry about it crumbling.

Looking good!

It's human nature. You tell people that they can't have something, that makes them want it even more. See the hysteria over '68 Coronets.

That is the new Ferrari Roma.

I got this on Tuesday for the Cadillac engine and the chassis parts.

I saw one of these at a stoplight this morning. Of course, it's not until after it pulls away that I remember that I have a phone that takes photos now.

An interesting pair of articles from Dean's Garage on the development of one of the best car designs of the postwar period. I knew the Lincoln shared some underpinning with the Thunderbird, but I didn't know that whole design was originally intended to be the '61 T-Bird. https://www.deansgarage.com/design-of-the-1961-lincoln-part-1/ https://www.deansgarage.com/design-of-the-1961-lincoln-part-2/

I think deleting it is a little ridiculous, and it's nice to see the different options.

For what it's worth, I would be interested in a '32 Chevrolet should Round2 ever decide to release it.

And with better looking parts, to boot.

And Europe is probably the biggest market for this too.

French Ford Vedette given the custom treatment.

I do something else until I feel like building models again.

Or, someone who was working on the Monte Carlo saw the Californian, and got inspired.

According to Dale Edward Johnson's book on the car, two over them were gold, one was green and one was burgundy.

Personally, the first thing that sprung to mind was Brooks Stevens. Exner was a lot more baroque.

That roof looks like it came off a Studebaker Hawk GT

Challenging is a good word for them, but they do reward your patience.

I definitely wouldn't recommend it for anything large. When I have used it, it's for filling a very small divot, or for casting small parts like taillights. Also something to watch out for when using solvent based cement to glue a bunch of sheets together to make a block, or something like a finned cylinder head. The solvent does soak into the surrounding plastic, and as it evaporates over time, you do run the risk of shrinkage. It can take months, even years, but it does happen.

If you really need to thicken your styrene cement, seeing how the thickening agent in tube glue is dissolved styrene, wouldn't you get the same result just dissolving some scrap styrene into your liquid cement?

Yes, liquid cement is not kind to paint, and neither is CA glue. My goto adhesive for small stuff where I don't want to damage paint or plastic is five minute epoxy

Honestly, I don't really see the point of thinning tube glue instead of just using the liquid stuff straight. Touch the brush to a seam, and let capillary action do the rest. If you have gaps to fill, add some bits of scrap styrene.

I built the Heller kit way back when, and it is so much nicer than the Smer/Merit kit. Probablly one of the nicest front engine open wheel racers you can get in that scale.

Kits here are creeping into the $50 range for those curbsides. Nobody likes spending money they don't have to, but if it's an accurate detailed kit of a subject I really want, then I'll probably bite the bullet. There's also the idea that what you are really buying is building time, so a pricier kit that takes longer to put together is actually a better investment than several cheaper kits that you can put together in an evening. This has always been the rationalization for the Pocher kits, anyhow.

Olds woody wagon at Gasoline Alley in Calgary.