Speedfreak

What's the verdict?

Thanks Bill! I've seen, (I had at on time) some stuff at Ace Hardware that is a glue to repair 'tennis shoe' soles etc,..... it dries and sticks real well and is flexible. I think they call it 'Sole Repair' or something and I bet they still have it. I'll check the stuff you mention as well Bill. Thing is, those tires I mentioned actually look good if you do them well. Then of course there's always the new AMT Custom & Competition M&H slicks

Testors I believe has a color called 'Chevy Engine Red' that you can get in the 1/2oz bottle. It's somewhere between red and orange, more red I think. That would at least get you in the ball park.

I've got a Austin Revell kit I'm gonna be working on soon that has two piece rubber/vinyl tires, what would be the 'preferred' glue for those? Thanks!

Yes it is. That stuff's as dry as an old bone. That hood an scoop are from a body that was in an old parts box a friend gave me, I'm gonna paint the whole car that color and see if I can't get a whole car out of it. A lot of the parts for it are in the box!

Sounds like he would have been one (maybe 'the') of 'the choice' people to have around if you were running a 'cammer' back then. That engine was a power house but was a little hard to maintain and keep race ready, at least for drag racing.. If it was running right it could beat the Hemi's but it took a 'really' talented mechanic to keep it that way, and even that wasn't enough at times. Given the design of the engine that's not difficult to understand. Got the engine donor Willy's kit today! Looks like it's gonna drop right into the Austin, with some minor engine mount mods. I lined the block/tranny assembly up with the Austin frame and it's pretty close as is, shouldn't be much of a problem even for me!

Paul, this is beautiful, the colors you're using and how and where you're using them gives the car a custom/show feel, it's beautiful.

If you follow the dots on the instructions (starting from the part) they literally show you exactly where both parts should be mounted. That's 'not' always the case with model instructions, but in this case it is.

......and not inhale and not touch

Very Cool! I'm watching/listening to Lemans now!

I don't know, let me go check,.........Cato, I just rubbed lightly on the scoop with my finger for 15 seconds or so, no smearing, seems solid.

Nice quick build!

Very nice Chuck, the first thing I was drawn to was the tires and wheels, they look great.

Very Nice, the big Caddies are here!

Wow Dale that is REALLY cool. Coolest thing I've seen in a while. I love the diorama, I love whole thing.

That is very cool Ray, and I believe the part about it being purchased for $250.00, wow! Since I'm a musician, I'm drawn to the guitar, as my focal point, very cool! Impala's 'used' to be such cool cars.

Wow! That is incredible, how yummy is that! I'll be trying that. Thanks Fred and Bruce.

LOL, no kidding man, I think it works great, and I'm not the best painter. $5.99 for 8oz not bad, and with coupon even less! And Bill, it's gotta be lacquer 'cause it dries really quick, re-coat in 10 minutes. And the can says if the nozzle gets clogged clean with lacquer thinner, no other clues as to what it is.

The whole presentation of that kit looks like a nightmare in a box.

Wait a minute? You put the glue on, paint over it, ('cause if your spraying it's gonna get paint on it) and 'then' wash it off?

I did some experimenting over the last couple of days since mother nature finally decided to allow modelers here to paint outside. This first shot is the Metalizer with one coat and buffed (after 10 minutes) with facial tissue, (no primer). The picture really doesn't do it justice, it looks better 1:1: The second pic is Tamiya 'Silver Leaf' on a badly prepped Quick Change: The third group of pictures is something I found at Hobby Lobby it's 'chrome' in a can, I wet sanded the hood, no primer, two medium wet coats of paint. The scoop was not wet sanded but primered with two mist coats of paint and two wet coats. You can see the lines/seams it developed after a couple of days of drying. :

You have to paint the Pontiac emblem silver/chrome as well, which complicates matters somewhat. I would probably start by putting BMF over that area and carefully cutting out the area I want to be body color, cover the rest of the grill with tape, and paint, then let it dry well. This leaves the emblem body color as well, you can BMF it, or , paint it by hand. I would BMF it myself. Or, You can mask of the whole grill put BMF over the emblem, cut it out and paint. There are several way's you can go about this, this is just one.

Thanks Andy, Bill and Cato. In the instructions from Testors for Metalizer(s) that you buff, they make it sound like you either only apply 'one' coat let dry for ten minutes then buff. Or, you buff after each coat, which doesn't make sense, so I'll do one coat and buff and see what happens. Here's the PDF file from Testors: http://www.testors.com/simg/209033518.pdf

Bruce, Do you just leave the water/glue solution on, without removing it? Nah, you gotta take it off right?